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GP Resistor Bank Bypass

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top_prop

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Suffolk, VA
I just completed a 12v bypass on my M1009. The military system was running fine since I started driving it in June, but I felt it would be insurance to run AC60G's and I'm planning an Air Conditioning Install this winter as I live in the deep south. So eventually the entire 24v system will go and the rear battery will be moved to the driver side. I searched high and low and haven't found one comprehensive thread, so I figured I'd post my pics here as this thread has good diagrams.

Here's what I did (and I'm a newbie shade tree mechanic... use this info at your own peril).

1. Chocked the wheels.
2. Removed the front battery negative terminal
3. Removed the rear battery positive terminal
4. Removed the cover for the 24V bus and removed the lead that ran to the resister behind the air cleaner
5. Removed the lead from the resister to the Glow Plug relay at the relay
 

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top_prop

Member
243
8
18
Location
Suffolk, VA
I just completed a 12v bypass on my M1009. The military system was running fine since I started driving it in June, but I felt it would be insurance to run AC60G's and I'm planning an Air Conditioning Install this winter as I live in the deep south. So eventually the entire 24v system will go and the rear battery will be moved to the driver side. I searched high and low and haven't found one comprehensive thread, so I figured I'd post my pics here as this thread has good diagrams.

Here's what I did (and I'm a newbie shade tree mechanic... use this info at your own peril).

1. Chocked the wheels.
2. Removed the front battery negative terminal
3. Removed the rear battery positive terminal
4. Removed the cover for the 24V bus and removed the lead that ran to the resister behind the air cleaner
5. Removed the lead from the resister to the Glow Plug relay at the relay
 

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top_prop

Member
243
8
18
Location
Suffolk, VA
Then:


6. Removed the air cleaner and placed a shop towel over the intake as a precaution
7. Removed the Top bolt holding the resister to the fire wall, then the two bottom bolts
note: you do not want to remove the 4 bolts on the front of the resister pack as they hold the resister to the metal mounting plate.
8. Removed the lead that ran from the 24v bus to the resister pack as it had the fusible link on it.
 

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top_prop

Member
243
8
18
Location
Suffolk, VA
9. I determined that the ring terminal with the fusible link fit nicely over the glow plug relay terminal, so I cut off the small terminal that was on the resister. I took the boot from the other wire without the fusible link. Then I placed a new ring terminal on the other end.
10. I cleaned the 12v bus terminals with some electronic contact cleaner and a wire brush.
11 Then I placed the reused glow plug wire on the 12v bus with my new terminal, and then the fusible link end on the GP relay (fusible links are typically put on with the link end connected to the voltage source but the factory put the link from the bus to the battery on unconventional... I figured it was expedient if I did the same).

I put the aircleaner back on and the battery terminals and was 12v glow plug conversion complete.

Next I pulled the old military glow plugs and put in the AC60G’s… the T/M didn’t say to use anti seize grease, but the old ones had it, and I figured it was a good idea, so I put some on the threads . I chose to cut the old terminals off the green wires and crimp on standard terminals just like my Civi Suburban with a 6.2 has. The aft two plugs were a little hard to get the torque wrench on (T/M said 10ftlbs) , but with an extension, or working from below it wasn't too hard.

Hope it helps,

Tom
 

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Warthog

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