drewzee87t
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I am just trying to get 1028 ready for winter. Last couple cold starts 40F or so, the engine starts right up, but misses at first and getting a lot of smoke out of right side (Passenger) exhaust until it warms up. Today I went with the FAQ wiki troubleshooting link and decided to see what condition my condition was in. The procedure is at the bottom of this post.
In examination, I noted that on the driver side front GP the green wire to the GP almost looks melted and the connector itself is looking like at some point it got too hot. Just an observation.
Onto testing, pulled one at a time with wife turning on/off the ign switch, right side (Passenger) all connectors are getting 12v, relays are thunking as they should be. For each GP, I used a voltmeter (don't trust test lights) and hooked between GP spade connector to hot battery and three of the four got volts. So the result of this test is that I have one bad GP on that side. Onto the driver side I am getting 20 volts from the connectors to ground and all GP's tested good.
I haven't had any GP problems with this truck but suspected that I had at least one bad GP from the smoking on cold starts. What surprises me is that I was getting such high voltages on the driver side. I don't understand 24v yet so maybe I am doing something wrong in my testing but why would the volts be that high?
To add to the confusion then I opened up the manual (like I should have to begin with) and they have a completely different troubleshooting sequence than was posted in the FAQ on this very helpful site. Then searching before I make my post, I find that pretty much everyone that has GP problems is told to RTFM and pointed to the link to get the manual. Tomorrow perhaps I will "properly" troubleshoot and see what I can learn, but can anyone explain what might be going on here with these voltages?
The GP system appears to be working fine and the truck will start when cold, just like I said, misses a bit and blow smoke only on that side.
Thanks all. The FAQ should be changed or some clarification to avoid looking and feeling like an idiot. I have a feeling it accomplishes the same thing faster, but then everyone will just tell RTFM.
Glow Plugs
In examination, I noted that on the driver side front GP the green wire to the GP almost looks melted and the connector itself is looking like at some point it got too hot. Just an observation.
Onto testing, pulled one at a time with wife turning on/off the ign switch, right side (Passenger) all connectors are getting 12v, relays are thunking as they should be. For each GP, I used a voltmeter (don't trust test lights) and hooked between GP spade connector to hot battery and three of the four got volts. So the result of this test is that I have one bad GP on that side. Onto the driver side I am getting 20 volts from the connectors to ground and all GP's tested good.
I haven't had any GP problems with this truck but suspected that I had at least one bad GP from the smoking on cold starts. What surprises me is that I was getting such high voltages on the driver side. I don't understand 24v yet so maybe I am doing something wrong in my testing but why would the volts be that high?
To add to the confusion then I opened up the manual (like I should have to begin with) and they have a completely different troubleshooting sequence than was posted in the FAQ on this very helpful site. Then searching before I make my post, I find that pretty much everyone that has GP problems is told to RTFM and pointed to the link to get the manual. Tomorrow perhaps I will "properly" troubleshoot and see what I can learn, but can anyone explain what might be going on here with these voltages?
The GP system appears to be working fine and the truck will start when cold, just like I said, misses a bit and blow smoke only on that side.
Thanks all. The FAQ should be changed or some clarification to avoid looking and feeling like an idiot. I have a feeling it accomplishes the same thing faster, but then everyone will just tell RTFM.
Glow Plugs
Tools Required
- Multi-Meter / test-light
- Glow Plug Socket
- 3' piece of wire, with ends stripped
- Remove a wire from a glow plug. Have a helper turn on the key, and check for voltage between the glow plug wire and ground.
- If voltage present, use a test light and hook the end to the tip of the glow plug while its still in the engine. With the other end of the test light, touch positive. If test light lights up the glow plug is good. Do this for each 8 glow plugs.
- If no voltage continue
- Locate Glow Plug Relay on firewall to the left of the master Cylinder.
- check for voltage on the Left large terminal.
- If voltage present, have helper turn on key, do you hear a clunk from the relay?
- If no, take your piece of wire, hold one end on a good ground, and touch the other end to the small terminal with the BLUE wire.
- If you still dont hear the relay clunk, replace it.
- If you do hear the clunk, your controller card is bad. Replace it, or install the 'manual glow plug' setup.
- If no, take your piece of wire, hold one end on a good ground, and touch the other end to the small terminal with the BLUE wire.
- If voltage not present, check for voltage on the left side of the resistor bank (behind air cleaner on firewall)
- If no voltage, check wire feeding resistors to ensure it is properly connected to the TOP busbar on the firewall
- If voltage present, verify wire between resistor and relay. if wire is good, replace resistor, or do the 12v resistor bypass
- If voltage present, have helper turn on key, do you hear a clunk from the relay?
- check for voltage on the Left large terminal.
