gutted 5 ton front housing

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I may need to gut a 5 ton front axle housing. I wonder how much the drop in chunk adds to the strenth of the housing?
I will prob need to pull the chunk and cover the hole with a plate.

the last thing i want is to fold the front axle up while going down the road!

maybe my concern about the housing being weak is off base.
I would rather be wrong and right side up.
 

gimpyrobb

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Maybe I missed something, but are you worried that if you take the guts out of a front axle that it will fold up? I doubt that very much. If the housing flexed at all, the driveline would bind and wear out quick.
 
Maybe I missed something, but are you worried that if you take the guts out of a front axle that it will fold up? I doubt that very much. If the housing flexed at all, the driveline would bind and wear out quick.
thats my question--- will it flex with the chunk removed? I know its a very thick housing but what I didnt know is whether or not it would flex with the chunk removed. Im sure the chunk provides some strenth to the housing.
 

73m819

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you could pull the axles, won't affect the steering, also, concerting the load on the steering axles, you might think about going to 1/2 with gussets or 3/4 plate, or a non drive steering axle like from a 915
 
you could pull the axles, won't affect the steering, also, concerting the load on the steering axles, you might think about going to 1/2 with gussets or 3/4 plate, or a non drive steering axle like from a 915
I was thinking the same way. 1/2 plate with gussets on the bottom/inside.
pull the axles and run it. this seems easier than swapping the whole thing out for a non driven axle. partly because i dont have a donor non driven axle.
this project will be transfer case delete and trans will be upgraded also.
 

Alredneck

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What great scheme is being played out now?

The housing is plenty thick enough to support a good amount of weight. Taking the chunk out and axles will also reduce a bunch of weight. 3/8 would be plenty thick enough to fab a cover for the hole left. Unless you were planning on playing airborne monster truck games you wouldnt need to gusset it. Grease in the hub would remain there after axle shafts are removed. Just rebolt the flanges on the hub and rtv appropiately.

Oh yea
this thread is worthless without pics!
 
What great scheme is being played out now?

The housing is plenty thick enough to support a good amount of weight. Taking the chunk out and axles will also reduce a bunch of weight. 3/8 would be plenty thick enough to fab a cover for the hole left. Unless you were planning on playing airborne monster truck games you wouldnt need to gusset it. Grease in the hub would remain there after axle shafts are removed. Just rebolt the flanges on the hub and rtv appropiately.

Oh yea
this thread is worthless without pics!
Not planning on anything leaving the ground. been there done that.
Im just over building/thinking the missing chunk thing from a structural point of veiw.

no great scheme just a repower of a five ton that can use a few more ponys between the fenders and a little more top end without bouncing the Cummins against the gov.

I just hope the stock radiator can handle 400 HP.

oh-- I think you guys know me well enough to know the pics will follow the progress. my camera is still greasy from the last project.
 
What great scheme is being played out now?

The housing is plenty thick enough to support a good amount of weight. Taking the chunk out and axles will also reduce a bunch of weight. 3/8 would be plenty thick enough to fab a cover for the hole left. Unless you were planning on playing airborne monster truck games you wouldnt need to gusset it. Grease in the hub would remain there after axle shafts are removed. Just rebolt the flanges on the hub and rtv appropiately.

Oh yea
this thread is worthless without pics!
after rereading this post I think you may have confused what my thoughts are.
the only gussets Im talking about would be on the bottom of the plate that covers the housing hole. prob over kill all the way.
 

eldgenb

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I just hope the stock radiator can handle 400 HP.

.

I would think that the stock radiator should be fine, I have repowered a 813 before with a 400 cummins bcIII turned up to 475 and flogged the snot out of it a few times with no overheating problems, the only thing she did not like was high idle sitting still, never overheated but the fan came on and off pretty regularly. Just my .02:grd:
 

eldgenb

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I think the front housing is plenty strong, I have also witnessed what you are talking about for a friend with a deuce axle in Oregon who jumps it at the dunes, he used 3/8" plate and never had a problem with it, very solid. Do you want to let us in on what engine/tranny combo you are planning on using? a series 60 or cat engine by chance? What is your 5 ton? 818 I would guess? Sorry for prying, I just like a good build. It gives me motivation to push my next project to the next level.
 

jdgreen

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I'm take a stab at it. But by his other recent custom built 818 stretched truck. It will be the one getting a bigger engine and loosing the 6x6, but yet be a military version (of his design) of a over the road stretched truck.
 

Ridgerunner

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If it was me, I'd cut the center differential part completely out. Then weld in a new piece material, of the same size and thickness as the existing axle tubing in it's place. Axle housings are narrowed and widened everyday, and as for strength/integrity this would be no different. It would give it a much cleaner, professional look, than an un used, capped-off differential housing.
 
I would think that the stock radiator should be fine, I have repowered a 813 before with a 400 cummins bcIII turned up to 475 and flogged the snot out of it a few times with no overheating problems, the only thing she did not like was high idle sitting still, never overheated but the fan came on and off pretty regularly. Just my .02:grd:
thank you. good information.
Im sure i will "flog the snot" out of mine also![thumbzup]
 
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