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For the past few weeks I have been installing the lift kit with help from Timntrucks and lilbob. I drilled 40 holes for the rear blocks using the 1/4" cryobit first then following up with a 1/2" cryobit. I used 3-in-1 oil at least 3-4 times on each bit for each hole. It took 3-4 minutes per hole. The bits don't even look worn after 40 holes! I used a 1 liter and 16 oz plastic coke bottle to catch the shavings when I drilled the bottom of the frame. No mess! Timntrucks provided all of the welding!
She is slowly getting there...
Incorrect drilling speedsIt is looking good! The two drills look as if you have taken mine. (I have the same models!) As for bits, I went through at least $250-$300 worth of bits. Many broke as easy as a toothpick, while others chipped or just dulled really quickly. (I used VA, DeWalt, Skill, and a few from Walmart.)
Good luck on the rest of your build!
I see you've got the bed spaced up of the frame, Do you have anything between the springs and the axle? and which springs are you using?How are you guys getting around the clearance issues with the Trailer bed and the Taller and Wider tires? I just put some 395's on my truck and noticed that the Trailer Bed frame's square supports are really close to the back tires. I cut two of them at a 45 degree angle so they are OK but I am concerned that if I load up the truck they may touch.. Perhaps I need to flip the hubs and the wheels as well to get them to move out a little? Here's what it looks like right now.
For most people including myself, the trailer bed is lighter weight than the stock bed and it's a fuel consumption issue, not to mention the lighter the truck, the better it'll do offroad.I was wondering why everyone opts for a trailer bed and dont cut the original bed down ? A guy in St Louis bobbed one and cut the bed and troop seats down and it turned out beautiful. Neat build!
I think to really perform better offroad, more weight needs to be in the rear and off of the front. Every other points seems very valid though.For most people including myself, the trailer bed is lighter weight than the stock bed and it's a fuel consumption issue, not to mention the lighter the truck, the better it'll do offroad.
Another reason is it's several hours work to shorten the stock bed rough and ugly, and if you want it pretty and clean, it's a few more hours work. The trailer bed is a ready made piece and if you do like most people and get your rear springs from an M105 for your bob job, you've got a perfect size bed box sitting right there just begging to be mounted to your truck chassis.
Should work for low amperage stuff, just gotta watch the output of the alternator.
You should look at a bettery equalizer then. Maybe a Vanner, 100 amp. Again, just make sure when you are drawing lots of amps, that you don't have all lights on etc. Was gonna look at putting a second alternator on mine.yep wish i could find on with higher amp rating thought kinda low for what i am thinking about doing with it
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