HanksDeuce: 8" Lift, Bobbed, External Cage, A/C and more Project!

HanksDeuce

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The 8" Black Rock Fab lift kit should arrive Friday, January 6th. :shock:
Still waiting on the 2-camera & monitor system from Hong Kong. :?

In the meantime I am pondering a dual fuel tank setup. A 5-10 gallon tank will have diesel for starting/shutdown. The factory fuel tank will contain 100% WMO. Both tanks will be relocated to inside the front of the M105A2 bed. A 3-way valve (3/8") will direct fuel from either tank to an external 24v fuel pump mounted on the frame. The fuel return from the engine will contain a second 3-way valve (3/8") to direct returning diesel or WMO to the appropriate tank. Each tank will also have a vent line. No check valves are required.

Attached is a schematic of my plan. I like the K.I.S.S. approach. Sure, I have to remember to actuate the valves, but they aren't as expensive or complicated as solenoid valves, pneumatic valves, etc.

Any thoughts? If I filter the WMO down to 1 micron do I need a filter before the external pump?
 

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HanksDeuce

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The lift kit is here! Kyle at Black Rock Fabrication is truly a metal master. Heck, his attention to detail on the crate and pallet to get my kit shipped here was nothing short of amazing!

I will start back on the bob project Saturday/Sunday. I've got website business meetings tomorrow. aua
 

Trailboss

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Hank,

Just found your thread. Glad you found something for that lazy Tim to do ;-) Looks like a great project!

Congrats on winning your tan trailer from Ft Polk. Let me know when you need the hitch and lights to pick it up.
 

LowTech

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Not sure why you would need a sep diesel tank. We have been running 100% WMO for the last two years, till winter, then we cut it w/ 5-10 gal gas per 50 gal (mine likes a bit more gas then the She Beast). I'm in the process of mounting two 50 gal tanks in the bed of the Draggin'. One will get fresh WMO during travel, then it will be pumped through filter(s) to the main tank to be used.

Just for those times when we're not pulling the fuel processing 105 :cool:
 

HanksDeuce

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For the past few weeks I have been installing the lift kit with help from Timntrucks and lilbob. I drilled 40 holes for the rear blocks using the 1/4" cryobit first then following up with a 1/2" cryobit. I used 3-in-1 oil at least 3-4 times on each bit for each hole. It took 3-4 minutes per hole. The bits don't even look worn after 40 holes! I used a 1 liter and 16 oz plastic coke bottle to catch the shavings when I drilled the bottom of the frame. No mess! Timntrucks provided all of the welding!

She is slowly getting there...
 

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hdmax

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It is looking good! The two drills look as if you have taken mine. (I have the same models!) As for bits, I went through at least $250-$300 worth of bits. Many broke as easy as a toothpick, while others chipped or just dulled really quickly. (I used VA, DeWalt, Skill, and a few from Walmart.)
Good luck on the rest of your build!

For the past few weeks I have been installing the lift kit with help from Timntrucks and lilbob. I drilled 40 holes for the rear blocks using the 1/4" cryobit first then following up with a 1/2" cryobit. I used 3-in-1 oil at least 3-4 times on each bit for each hole. It took 3-4 minutes per hole. The bits don't even look worn after 40 holes! I used a 1 liter and 16 oz plastic coke bottle to catch the shavings when I drilled the bottom of the frame. No mess! Timntrucks provided all of the welding!

She is slowly getting there...
 

Ridgerunner

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When I did my lift, I had four drills chucked up. Each drill had a position in the line up, 1/8 bit, 1/4" bit, 3/8" bit and the last drill with an 1/2" bit. I used the same drill bits for the whole process. Didn't have any trouble. Still have them, and use them on other jobs aswell. They were just basic black oxide HSS bits......go figure.
 

ODdave

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It is looking good! The two drills look as if you have taken mine. (I have the same models!) As for bits, I went through at least $250-$300 worth of bits. Many broke as easy as a toothpick, while others chipped or just dulled really quickly. (I used VA, DeWalt, Skill, and a few from Walmart.)
Good luck on the rest of your build!
Incorrect drilling speeds

I had to have something to subscribe to this thread.
 

HanksDeuce

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I snagged a 24v wireless GoLight Spotlight from the SS classifieds. It should be here soon.

Waiting on a set of deuce front springs to finish the rear of the lift kit install. Then we tackle the front part of the truck for the lift kit install!
 
New User Question:

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Sometime soon I'll be picking up a 1972 AM General M35A2 with an M105 trailer and I'll be harvesting the springs and bed from the trailer and bobbing the deuce. I'm planning to leave a little extra length in the frame so I can set the bed back from the cab to mount jerry can holders and a tool box. I'd like to keep an eye on the progress of this project as I'm always looking for ideas to make my truck all the more different and cool.

Another plan I have is to chop out 4 of the crossmembers from the trailer chassis to use as spacers to lift the bed up off the frame a bit to allow clearance for when I get bigger tires and to be able to service the fuel tank sender or pump without having to drop the tank or remove the bed.
Also, the truck I'm getting does not have a top. Does anyone have a decent used soft top cheap? any advise on my upcoming project would be greatly appreciated! :D
 

Brain's 97 Diesel

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Hank, for you dual fuel system have you tried to find a 24 volt fuel selector valve. I have a 97 Ford 7.3 w/ dual tanks that uses a selector valve to send the fuel to the engine as well as return the fuel from the engine to the tank in use. I'm sure someone makes a 24 volt set up so you could flip a switch from in the cab to change tanks on the fly. Another option would be to get a 12 volt setup and figure how to run it off of the 24 volt system w/ some sort of 24 to 12 volt reducer. (I'm not an electrician so I don't know the correct terminology).
 
How are you guys getting around the clearance issues with the Trailer bed and the Taller and Wider tires? I just put some 395's on my truck and noticed that the Trailer Bed frame's square supports are really close to the back tires. I cut two of them at a 45 degree angle so they are OK but I am concerned that if I load up the truck they may touch.. Perhaps I need to flip the hubs and the wheels as well to get them to move out a little? Here's what it looks like right now.

Thanks
Brian
I see you've got the bed spaced up of the frame, Do you have anything between the springs and the axle? and which springs are you using?
 
I was wondering why everyone opts for a trailer bed and dont cut the original bed down ? A guy in St Louis bobbed one and cut the bed and troop seats down and it turned out beautiful. Neat build!
For most people including myself, the trailer bed is lighter weight than the stock bed and it's a fuel consumption issue, not to mention the lighter the truck, the better it'll do offroad.
Another reason is it's several hours work to shorten the stock bed rough and ugly, and if you want it pretty and clean, it's a few more hours work. The trailer bed is a ready made piece and if you do like most people and get your rear springs from an M105 for your bob job, you've got a perfect size bed box sitting right there just begging to be mounted to your truck chassis.
 

Jakob

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For most people including myself, the trailer bed is lighter weight than the stock bed and it's a fuel consumption issue, not to mention the lighter the truck, the better it'll do offroad.
Another reason is it's several hours work to shorten the stock bed rough and ugly, and if you want it pretty and clean, it's a few more hours work. The trailer bed is a ready made piece and if you do like most people and get your rear springs from an M105 for your bob job, you've got a perfect size bed box sitting right there just begging to be mounted to your truck chassis.
I think to really perform better offroad, more weight needs to be in the rear and off of the front. Every other points seems very valid though.
 

caliber1

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Should work for low amperage stuff, just gotta watch the output of the alternator.

yep wish i could find on with higher amp rating thought kinda low for what i am thinking about doing with it
You should look at a bettery equalizer then. Maybe a Vanner, 100 amp. Again, just make sure when you are drawing lots of amps, that you don't have all lights on etc. Was gonna look at putting a second alternator on mine.

Awesome build HanksDeuce. Can't wait tomsee more pics.
 
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