Hard Starting issue conclusion?

[stationjj]

A few weeks ago I post about my hard starting issues I was having with my M1009.

The previous post Link; http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/90335-hard-starting-my-plan.html

Anyway I am a new CUCV owner. I was having hard starting issues and it seemed that as it got hotter the worst it got. The previous owner had done a lot of work to the CUCV. He replaced starter, alternator, GP Relay, GP controller card, rebuilt IP, and added electric fuel pump. I myself replaced Glow Plugs, and planned to replace filter with screw on.

From the research I did I was running out of options, and I was hoping a new screw on fuel filter would fix my ails. After thinking about it I knew it wasn't the source of my problem.

Started checking electrical on GP system, and it was checking out good. I began to think the IP rebuild was bad? As it has been pointed out hard starting issues sometimes are a sign of a dying IP.

While jiggling the wire harness of GP Controller Card it started up. After careful inspection of the wiring harness found a worn/bad spot. I was hard to see without a careful visual inspection. With it fixed the hard starting is so much better!

One odd thing I noticed is this. I turn the key on and once the WAIT light is off I try to start, and it's not always easy. (Hard Starting).

Now if you turn key and once the WAIT light is off, and then you wait for the GP solenoid to click off it starts up easy.

Is this normal? Something out of sync? This is all new to me.

I hope this fixes my Hard Starting issues? Wanted to post my finds and hope this helps other CUCV owners?

stationjj

 

[wayne pick]

Don't wait for the relay to click off, as soon as the light goes out crank it. If it's still hard to start, cycle the GPs again. With all the parts the previous owner replaced, you should not have a hard starting issue. If this is your first diesel you have to realise it will not start as quickly as a gas engine. It's been roasting hot 95+deg's here in NY for the past two weeks and im sure it's just as hot in Tenn. I jump in my truck after work, and it fires right up with no glow plugs. I have bypassed the GP card with a momentary contact switch, grounding the GP relay and I think it works better in cold weather. Make sure the charging sys is working properly, a weak battery could cause problems with the GP and starting system.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Mine works just the opposite. The relay clicks off before the light. Hmm.

 

[stationjj]

Thanks everyone. I plan to install a GP switch bypass.

This is my first diesel and yes I may be expecting to much.

stationjj

 

[tbearatkin]

IN Tennessee and and mine starts it fires off almost before I get a full revolution of the starter. Does not matter if it is after the wait light goes off or if on these hot days there is no wait light.

Just for the heck of it I had my IR thermometer with me the other day and just as I got into it I shot it at the pavement. It was 135 degrees. Nope did not need any GP that day but did appreciate the floor vents and wing vents that day.

 

[Keith_J]

Speed of cranking is also a key, the geared 28MT starters spin the engine over a good bit faster.

Wish I knew of a good source for these starters for under $150.

 

[wayne pick]

stationjj, Don't do the bypass untill you figured out what the problem is. The only reason I did the bypass is that my GP card fried in January of this year and I needed to have the truck ready to snowplow. I have used manual glow plug sys for nearly 30 yrs on heavy equipment so I know how to use it. If you are inexperienced with diesels and glow plug systems, you may burn up your brand new glow plugs with the bypass setup by energizing the plugs for too long. As I said, check your charging sys and batterys first and move on to a faster starter as Keith J stated above.

 

[Jeremiah_Johnson]

When I 1st got my 85 M1009 it had starting issues . I installed new glow plugs did the 12 volt conversion, checked and fixed alternators and I think best thing I did was start using( Diesel additive ) I add as described 4 oz per 5 gal. It now cranks as soon as wait lights goes off , and after warm very quick .have also been advised to put a quart of auto trans fluid per tank of fuel to clean injectors... did that once or twist but not lately.. ( M1009 is stock original glow plug controller )

 

[wayne pick]

Use Sea foam, The new trans oils have friction enhancers that could wipe out your IP.

 

[stationjj]

Thanks for your advice. Since I am new diesel engines and GPs. I am getting help from a mechanic. I know that concerning the GP system I need to defer it to a mechanic.

The electrical is checking out so far. One battery was a little low compared to the other. We think this may had been caused by me trying to start it and running something off the 12 Volt.
The batteries are Military Hawker Batteries. The starter is new and came from DB electric and suspect it's 27MT?

The GP system is getting correct voltage. We are going to double check batteries and alternators again.

The M1009 came from the base with GP switch bypass. The previous owner took it out.

Thank You.

stationjj

 

[stationjj]

Well it looks like I have some electrical problems. Today gen 2 (passenger side) wasn't running.
While trying to check it started up. The back battery will hold a good 12.5+ volt charge.
When I put a load on it. I get between 8-9 volts. Now compared to the front battery it's low during load test.

Reading some old post today. I think Warthog said it great. These CUCVs have had a harsh life, and electrical connections are corroded or dirty. Very Good Advice!

If it's electrical clean it! AMEN!

Thanks

stationjj

 

[cpf240]

With those load test results, I'd say that is a failing battery.

 

[wayne pick]

Go to tractor supply and get yourself two group 31 Exides, $100.00 each up here, probly less down by you. Best buy for the money, I think. If you replace just one battery, make sure it matches the CCA rating of the front bat, just my.