• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Has anyone tried to add an additional muffler to a TQG?

Glockfan

Member
274
13
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
I'm wondering if an additional muffler could be added to further reduce the noise level. I've found the correct size coupling that will screw onto the existing muffler. I thought about eliminating the terrible and poorly designed rain cap on my MEP-803 by welding an 12" piece of muffler pipe to the coupling I have and then capping it with a traditional rain cap like you see on most equipment.

Would it even be worth it to try to find a short silencer to use in place of the muffler pipe for added sound attenuation? What say y'all fine fellows?
 
33
1
8
Location
JBLM, WA
As long as its a flow through type muffler and same size pipe, you shouldn't have any problems. Diesel engines like to breathe so don't create any added backpressure by restricting the airflow. You could also u-bend the pipe downward to prevent rain collection like you see on some farm tractors, just don't aim it straight back down at the genset.
 

Ratch

Member
586
5
18
Location
Chester County, PA
I've thought about this, but even with how smooth these run, they vibrate a lot. With the added weight of pipe and another muffler, and no way to support it independent of the housing, that adds up to a lot of stress on parts that aren't built to be load bearing; mostly the factory muffler and exhaust manifold. I'd expect cracks to start showing up in the factory muffler.

I added a 4 inch extension with a flapper to mine. Works fine, except the last few days, it's been sticking open. Not good... I've considered drilling a weep hole in the bottom of the muffler so rain doesn't have a chance to flow into the engine.

For sound, I'd like to experiment with tuning stubs set to the resonant frequency/wavelength of the exhaust if that's possible. I can't remember where I've seen it, but I think I read about high-end cars using it as a technique to further control sound in big horsepower engines.

Also, for sound control, you want to keep the outlet pointed up to open sky. Pointing it down or to the side will inevitably cause sound to reflect of the ground/housing/etc and appear louder.
 
Last edited:

dependable

Well-known member
1,720
187
63
Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
I also put an 3 or 4 inch extension on my 802, attached to muffler output threads by a 45d coupler, and then another 90d at end of extension. This makes it point down so water can not get in and no rattling flapper and noise can be directed some. The thread on exhaust on these is 1.25in NPT, just like the 002 & 003.
 

Glockfan

Member
274
13
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
Great info guys. If I could get my hands on a short extension or just have one made, I think I will go that route. My friend put a long pipe on his 802 and it does shake around quite a bit so I would want to add something considerably shorter with less mass. The only real reason I am interested in adding something at all is to get rid of the cheesy flap and add a proper tractor rain cap. I will forego adding any additional muffler based on the added mass that I really do not need stressing out my existing muffler. My 803 doesn't vibrate and shimmy nearly as bad as my friend's 802 but I think his could have a defective motor mount.
 

Ratch

Member
586
5
18
Location
Chester County, PA
I just bought the coupler and extension at Lowes, plumbing aisle. Black iron or galvanized ought to be fine, but I used galv to avoid rust. I also painted mine OD and let it cure before running.
 

Ratch

Member
586
5
18
Location
Chester County, PA
I knew I had a pic somewhere... Hard to see the color here, but you can see the pipe.
At some point, I may have a skirt made to keep rain out of the housing, but it's not at all important.



WP_20140405_001 (2).jpg
 

Glockfan

Member
274
13
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
I think a rigid conduit coupling would be thin enough to screw onto the existing threads without having to trim the housing. I'm headed to Lowes! Lots of good ideas you guys are giving me...
 

Glockfan

Member
274
13
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
I used a rigid conduit coupler and backed it up to a lock nut to avoid pushing down the spring loaded silicon gasket. I put it on with a pipe wrench and it is solid as a rock! Now I picked up an annoying rattle from the rain cap but that is a fair trade off for a much more robust exhaust system. Honestly, I thank you guys for the ideas...
 

CDR

New member
325
3
0
Location
new york
I used a rigid conduit coupler and backed it up to a lock nut to avoid pushing down the spring loaded silicon gasket. I put it on with a pipe wrench and it is solid as a rock! Now I picked up an annoying rattle from the rain cap but that is a fair trade off for a much more robust exhaust system. Honestly, I thank you guys for the ideas...
That pipe you used looks nice and thin wall. you call it rigid? I'm assuming it's use for electrical work?
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,168
113
Location
NY
What is a TQG?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks