Headlights, Tail lights, and horn issues.

[v12venator]

Oh, okay, I gotcha now. I haven't really poked around too much in the horn circuit of my truck just yet since my main focus was engine and lighting. After seeing your picture and the wiring diagram, I now have a better understanding of what you're mentioning. If I'm not mistaken, which I probably am, doesn't that feed power to the horn from the locking spade connection to the horn itself on the front clip? If my interpreting of the wiring diagram is correct, you just stopped all power from getting to the horn by doing that. You should be able to bypass that suppressor completely if you're never going to run military radios in that truck and splice it into the spade that was on the power side of the suppressor. I would still vote to take a look at your horn relay behind the dash and snip the diode that should be on the back side of the plug for that 3 pin relay. Those have a tendency to go bad and keep power flowing to whatever is on the distant end of the wires. Especially with them jumping connections like they do on the plugs.

 

[Bama93]

Oh, okay, I gotcha now. I haven't really poked around too much in the horn circuit of my truck just yet since my main focus was engine and lighting. After seeing your picture and the wiring diagram, I now have a better understanding of what you're mentioning. If I'm not mistaken, which I probably am, doesn't that feed power to the horn from the locking spade connection to the horn itself on the front clip? If my interpreting of the wiring diagram is correct, you just stopped all power from getting to the horn by doing that. You should be able to bypass that suppressor completely if you're never going to run military radios in that truck and splice it into the spade that was on the power side of the suppressor. I would still vote to take a look at your horn relay behind the dash and snip the diode that should be on the back side of the plug for that 3 pin relay. Those have a tendency to go bad and keep power flowing to whatever is on the distant end of the wires. Especially with them jumping connections like they do on the plugs.

You are correct. I made a jumper (just to lengthen the wires some for testing) and when I touch them it still blows. I finally got all of my lights fixed this afternoon so I can start focusing on that horn and I’ll be good to go then.

 

[v12venator]

Okay, just making sure. I've taken a picture of the relay and it's plug in relation to the fuse box here:


On the back side of that plug, you'll see a small cylinder that goes from one plug to another. This diode has probably failed in your wiring harness and is allowing power to jump the relay and stay full power on when provided with power. What you'll want to do is trim the connections on each end of the diode going into the plug as close to the back of the plug as possible. If feasible, I would also put liquid electrical tape to the backside of the plug where the diode connected to safeguard against accidental grounding of the wires while moving and activating your horn.

In theory, the suppressor would actually be a safer thing to keep than the diode as it is since the suppressor is basically a DC version of a surge protector in your house. It'll protect the horn internal components from any electrical spikes so that it keeps everything intact in the event of, say a lightning strike, or something crazy like that.

 

[Bama93]

Okay, just making sure. I've taken a picture of the relay and it's plug in relation to the fuse box here:
View attachment 799903
View attachment 799904
On the back side of that plug, you'll see a small cylinder that goes from one plug to another. This diode has probably failed in your wiring harness and is allowing power to jump the relay and stay full power on when provided with power. What you'll want to do is trim the connections on each end of the diode going into the plug as close to the back of the plug as possible. If feasible, I would also put liquid electrical tape to the backside of the plug where the diode connected to safeguard against accidental grounding of the wires while moving and activating your horn.

In theory, the suppressor would actually be a safer thing to keep than the diode as it is since the suppressor is basically a DC version of a surge protector in your house. It'll protect the horn internal components from any electrical spikes so that it keeps everything intact in the event of, say a lightning strike, or something crazy like that.

Great! Thanks for the info, I’ll give it a try and see what I can come up with