Help me diagnose my fuel issue

The FLU farm

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Like I said it does not fire at all, the strainer / pre-filter seems to always be full when I check it, and the filters are full whenever I check.
Okay, then it may be blockage, not leakage. I've pressurized the tank, through the vent, to get fuel through the system.

And as far as using starting fluid goes, being lazy, I just spray it into the air intake while I'm sitting in the seat, operating the clutch and starter button.
If doing it right, you can keep the engine running. But it's like seating beads with it, you can also screw things up by using it the wrong way.

Remember how my (supposed) parts SEE was very obstinate in the beginning, and understandable so? Well, once the fuel system was leak free and the crap had been worked out of the system, that engine purrs.
 

rtrask

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I finally got down to my property where the SEE is now and with my nephew's help I was able to get it running again. The solution is not one I have seen suggested here, but it worked for me. We installed a electric fuel pump. 24 volt pump $15 We installed it by splicing it in to the rubber hose between the tank and the first fitting where the hard plastic line takes over. We ran the wires up to the switch and put in an inline fuse. I will try to post pictures Friday.

I also drained the tank and put in new diesel, and changed the fuel filters, added diesel 911, but I don't think those actions made any difference. I had to give it a shot of either on the air filter but once it caught it ran great. As Frank8003 said:

Some parts of fuel systems suck and some push ..............
With the electric pump pushing, the source of the problem became apparent. There is a bit of a leak in the hard plastic line / connector to the pre-filter, and at the pre-filter itself. (again I will post a picture Friday)

It sounds like you may be over thinking this, Ron.

Primarily, what is it that makes you think that you don't have leaks in the fuel lines, which is so common?
Is the strainer still full when the engine stops, for example?
I was honest when I said that the filter and strainer seemed to always be full, but in "full" disclosure, I don't know how anyone could be accurate when saying it was "full" or not unless you replace the steel strainer container with a glass one. I think the strainer itself was likely one source of the loss of suction / pressure from the mechanical pump. The strainer always seemed full, and the filter weep holes always spit diesel when I hit the hand pump, but my over active imagination got the best of me, that made worse by the fact that circumstances prevented me from getting access to the beast to try things out.

I will fix the leaks, but I also intend to keep running the electric pump. It does not hurt anything to my knowledge as the excess just cycles back through the return line, and it prevents a minor air leak from being a break down.
 

peakbagger

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Congratulations, Its definitely will work. Its a permanent version of my boat tank temporary solution.

If you do want to snug up on the plastic lines, the fix is to buy a fuel hose with an ID thats the OD of the plastic. Cut the hose the lenght of the hose barb and then slice it lengthwise. Slip it over the plastic and then put a standard hose clamp over it and crank it down tight. This protects the plastic but allows it to be cinched down. Some folks also order fuel injection clamps that do not have the worm gear arrangement so its a smooth metal band that wraps around the hose and skips the fuel hose but you generally need to order those fuel injection clamps.

And of course buy a few spare strainer gaskets. Note my 1300L which was built for the German government about the same time does not put a strainer on the suction side, they put a clear plastic throwaway fuel strainer downstream of the fuel pump and upstream of the final filters. I have spare in my glove compartment.
 
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The FLU farm

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The solution is not one I have seen suggested here, but it worked for me. We installed a electric fuel pump. 24 volt pump $15 We installed it by splicing it in to the rubber hose between the tank and the first fitting where the hard plastic line takes over.

I also drained the tank and put in new diesel, and changed the fuel filters, added diesel 911, but I don't think those actions made any difference.
I used an electric fuel pump as a trouble shooting tool, for a while, on the parts SEE. But a 12 Volt that I had.

Not that I remember why, but you shouldn't use the 911 unless it is an emergency (gelled fuel). If it's still in the tank, you may want to drain the tank again. Unless that only applies to modern diesels.

When I had the strainer off every 20 minutes or so (as a result of bacteria, but after having fixed the leaks) I'd fill it with Howes.
Extra lubrication and cleansing wouldn't hurt anything, I figured.
 

rtrask

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I did a little reading on the diesel 911 issue, and there is some controversy about if it is an issue or not. The thing is like a lot of internet issues long on opinions, not much on hard facts. The claim is that it will gum up your injectors. I don't know, but I doubt they could sell the stuff if one tank would cause issues. I think using diesel 911as a default anti-gel all winter in vehicle that runs through several tanks of the stuff is a bad practice, but not worried about 1 tank. I will try to keep it full to dilute it as I burn through it.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
 

The FLU farm

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I don't know, but I doubt they could sell the stuff if one tank would cause issues.
Everything is relative. If you're sitting somewhere along the side of the road with gelled fuel, using 911 sure beats walking.
If the fuel isn't gelled, there's all kinds of other additives that will clean, lube, etc.
 
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