HELP! Need engine install in Florida - preferably a 6.2

Edis06

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As most of those who follow my build know, I have temporarily welded my new balancer onto my crank with the broken keyway. Now that it runs like new, I need to source and schedule an engine replacement. Personally, I'm tired of either outrageously high quotes by inexperienced idiots ($10,000 labor), long waits by the most experienced Humvee shops (which are very reasonable but have a 1 year plus wait) and pitches to spend $30K on a Duramax upgrade.

I either want a standard GEP 6.2 (not a 6.5) installed or someone who can rebuild my existing engine with a new crank and all new seals. I don't want an upgrade, or a 4 speed trans., or anything else.

Does anyone know of a Florida source who can provide such service?
 

Edis06

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Did GEP make 6.2?

I might be wrong, but I thought GEP was 6.5.
IDK, my book calls it a GEP 6,227cc 150bhp diesel, but I just want to make sure I get the military variant (through 1994) that is a direct drop in replacement. No electronics, no frills.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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As most of those who follow my build know, I have temporarily welded my new balancer onto my crank with the broken keyway. Now that it runs like new, I need to source and schedule an engine replacement. Personally, I'm tired of either outrageously high quotes by inexperienced idiots ($10,000 labor), long waits by the most experienced Humvee shops (which are very reasonable but have a 1 year plus wait) and pitches to spend $30K on a Duramax upgrade.

I either want a standard GEP 6.2 (not a 6.5) installed or someone who can rebuild my existing engine with a new crank and all new seals. I don't want an upgrade, or a 4 speed trans., or anything else.

Does anyone know of a Florida source who can provide such service?
GEP didn’t Make the 6.2, the 6.5 is the direct replacement, it’s in the form of a “detuned” motor.
Why you wouldn’t want a 6.5 im not clear on...later GEP’s are a much much better motor for many reasons.
The detuned 6.5 was because the 6.2 was mfg discontinue.
 

Coug

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IDK, my book calls it a GEP 6,227cc 150bhp diesel, but I just want to make sure I get the military variant (through 1994) that is a direct drop in replacement. No electronics, no frills.
None of the military engines were electronic, even the GEP 6.5 and the 6.5 turbo motors aren't electronic any more than the 6.2 they replaced.
Any non-turbo military 6.2, 6.5 GM or 6.5 GEP should bolt right in no issues, no major modifications, and as RWH said, the 6.5 GEP has much better metallurgy than either of the GM blocks it replaced, and will give you much better reliability and piece of mind.

And as far as I know (please correct me if I am wrong) you don't necessarily have to find the detuned variant, you can do the slightly higher power version from one of the later series no issues (though you'll probably need a complete motor with all accessories as it will be a serpentine belt system instead of the V-belts, yet another improvement)
 

Retiredwarhorses

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None of the military engines were electronic, even the GEP 6.5 and the 6.5 turbo motors aren't electronic any more than the 6.2 they replaced.
Any non-turbo military 6.2, 6.5 GM or 6.5 GEP should bolt right in no issues, no major modifications, and as RWH said, the 6.5 GEP has much better metallurgy than either of the GM blocks it replaced, and will give you much better reliability and piece of mind.

And as far as I know (please correct me if I am wrong) you don't necessarily have to find the detuned variant, you can do the slightly higher power version from one of the later series no issues (though you'll probably need a complete motor with all accessories as it will be a serpentine belt system instead of the V-belts, yet another improvement)
6.5 used in A2 trucks will work Great, as long as you know some of the caveats.
the injection pump uses a TPS, so the shaft does not support the cam wheel for the kick down, this will require you move the switch to the injection pump throttle bracket and use the correct linkage to the pump to actuate it and connect to the modulator cable on the transmission. The trade off is a motor that is a beast in an m998.
 

Edis06

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Florida
None of the military engines were electronic, even the GEP 6.5 and the 6.5 turbo motors aren't electronic any more than the 6.2 they replaced.
Any non-turbo military 6.2, 6.5 GM or 6.5 GEP should bolt right in no issues, no major modifications, and as RWH said, the 6.5 GEP has much better metallurgy than either of the GM blocks it replaced, and will give you much better reliability and piece of mind.

And as far as I know (please correct me if I am wrong) you don't necessarily have to find the detuned variant, you can do the slightly higher power version from one of the later series no issues (though you'll probably need a complete motor with all accessories as it will be a serpentine belt system instead of the V-belts, yet another improvement)
I know neither had electronics, however each time I try to have the engine swapped, I'm pitched on a 4-speed trans, turbos, duramax, cummins, etc., etc. I'm just tired of being pitched on complex upgrades that ultimately lead to a lifetime of tinkering. Same with the suspension - yeah, I've seen some custom jobs that look great and give twice the travel, but those a are the same guys breaking custom shit while in the field. I just want stock.

Also, I prefer v-belts. I hate serpentine belts, idler pulleys, tensioners, etc. The bearings and springs, don't last forever, water will mutilate them and if you lose one belt you lose it all. The simplicity of the original design amazes me. Then again, I work on Ferrari engines as a hobby with troublesome VVT variator systems, F1 automated manual transmissions, clutches, TCUs, etc., so I'm biased for the far easy end of the complexity spectrum.
 
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Edis06

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6.5 used in A2 trucks will work Great, as long as you know some of the caveats.
the injection pump uses a TPS, so the shaft does not support the cam wheel for the kick down, this will require you move the switch to the injection pump throttle bracket and use the correct linkage to the pump to actuate it and connect to the modulator cable on the transmission. The trade off is a motor that is a beast in an m998.
I'm completely OK with either a 6.2 or a 6.5. I prefer the 6.2 for a few reasons:

1. It's louder. The 6.5 is slightly quieter and more powerful. I like the noisy 6.2. I can tell the difference between the 6.2 and the 6.5 NA running.
2. Stronger heads. This may be a total coincidence, and I'm not saying the 6.2 hasn't had cracked heads before, however I am well familiar with original 6.2s going into the 6 digits in mileage but I know of zero 6.5s without replacement heads.
3. I just had a custom cooling system reservoir made for my 6.2 which will not work with a 6.5. $400 is $400 and I'd like to repurpose that.
4. Most importantly, my old 6.2 runs flawlessly. It stinks, smokes and is noisy af, but it'll get me through the woods and home. In the 100 degree temps, it stays COOL. Never, ever overheating. I'm not at all suggesting that a 6.5 would be any less reliable, however I know how the 6.2 behaves and I trust it. If it weren't for the poorly torqued balancer I bought it with, it would be a total workhorse and I'd trust it on a cross-country trip.

I am currently driving the truck about 25K miles per year and that will go up when the engine issue is resolved. I don't want speed or efficiency - just loud, smelly reliability. That's the personality that makes Humvees worth the money to me.
 

TOBASH

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My suggestion is call all the site supporting and site listed suppliers. They support us so why not see if they can help. Eastern surplus might be a good place to start, but there are others. Many others.



You should also post on the classifieds section of SteelSoldiers.

You can also just buy a new crank and rebuild your engine.

With the money you save, a 6.5 GEP might be best even if you lose your $400 custom cooling system.
 

Edis06

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My suggestion is call all the site supporting and site listed suppliers. They support us so why not see if they can help. Eastern surplus might be a good place to start, but there are others. Many others.



You should also post on the classifieds section of SteelSoldiers.

You can also just buy a new crank and rebuild your engine.

With the money you save, a 6.5 GEP might be best even if you lose your $400 custom cooling system.
You're correct on these recommendations. I would like to install a new crank but I simply don't have the room. I have a one-car private garage. No joke, all Ferraris have subframes that drop the engines and gearboxes down allowing them to slide out, making it easy to service. I'd need an extra 10 feet to pull out the engine using a hoist. I just want to take the truck somewhere and pick it up fixed lol.

I'm still surprised that when I offer $5000 for someone to install a dusty takeout motor in my truck, the shop says they can't do it. I guess they have more confidence in our new president than I, bc an entry-level economics class should teach them that in 2 more years, they'll be begging for that money.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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You're correct on these recommendations. I would like to install a new crank but I simply don't have the room. I have a one-car private garage. No joke, all Ferraris have subframes that drop the engines and gearboxes down allowing them to slide out, making it easy to service. I'd need an extra 10 feet to pull out the engine using a hoist. I just want to take the truck somewhere and pick it up fixed lol.

I'm still surprised that when I offer $5000 for someone to install a dusty takeout motor in my truck, the shop says they can't do it. I guess they have more confidence in our new president than I, bc an entry-level economics class should teach them that in 2 more years, they'll be begging for that money.
I don’t know who you called, who you talk too or where some info you posted came from, but my apologies...you have been fed a load of crap. Ive done probably more hmmwv engine Installs and swaps than any shop in the U.S., have been for many many years.
 

Edis06

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Florida
I don’t know who you called, who you talk too or where some info you posted came from, but my apologies...you have been fed a load of crap. Ive done probably more hmmwv engine Installs and swaps than any shop in the U.S., have been for many many years.
Wish you were closer!!

And remember I live in the sunny place for shady people. I'm nearly convinced that most shops down here are just money laundering operations with a shop full of hollow engine props and a cardboard secretary in the window.
 

Action

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I could have done it for you in Cape Coral if you found me about 6 months ago. Im in TN now.
Rent a storage locker for one month that is big enough.
 

Edis06

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There are numerous shops in Florida that are reputable, you are also only one state away from Mike at Black Dog customs in Ga.
I'm sure there are but finding them is another story.

Yes, Mike is a great guy and I'd trust him 100%. He's made some custom parts for me already. But GA is a hike to ship a truck for work.
 

Bulldogger

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I had trouble finding a garage to take it on too, until someone noted Jeff of Tactical Truck isn't very far from me. The civilian garages I called were scared of anything not like for like, stock replacements. They also didn't want to fuss with military wiring (Packard connectors, etc.) and various other things. An industrial truck shop might give you a better answer. I never got to asking those.
BDGR
 

Retiredwarhorses

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You purchased a “niche“ vehicle, this same issue would affect any owner of a rare or exotic vehicle.
finding qualified mechanics to work on them and such. You don’t want to transport the truck to a shop that will do it right, you would rather find a shop locally so your not spending extra money on transportatio? Only problem is your going to pay even more money to fix whatever the local shop effs up because they don’t really know wtf they are doing...I see this all the time in my shop. Rarely are trucks that come into my shop even from my state...they come from every state in the union. Find a reputable hmmwv shop, ship the truck and get it done right...you will be waaay ahead in the long run, if not...your only avenue is to do it yoursel.
 

Edis06

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Florida
You purchased a “niche“ vehicle, this same issue would affect any owner of a rare or exotic vehicle.
finding qualified mechanics to work on them and such. You don’t want to transport the truck to a shop that will do it right, you would rather find a shop locally so your not spending extra money on transportatio? Only problem is your going to pay even more money to fix whatever the local shop effs up because they don’t really know wtf they are doing...I see this all the time in my shop. Rarely are trucks that come into my shop even from my state...they come from every state in the union. Find a reputable hmmwv shop, ship the truck and get it done right...you will be waaay ahead in the long run, if not...your only avenue is to do it yoursel.
Hold on, don't get ahead of yourself. I never said I "don't want" to transport my truck. Naturally, the sane thing to do as step one would be to find a shop that specializes in HMMWV engine swaps, and I've found a few in Florida. I have intentionally avoided "local" shops as I don't want anyone touching the truck who hasn't touched one before. To my surprise however, even the exclusive HMMWV shops will only upgrade me to the tune of $30,000 and refuse to install a host of takeout engines which are at their disposal. I just find that odd, being that it's a simple job, comparing it of course to a complex Duramax turbo with custom cooling, electrics, etc.

I just got another message back today from X-treme Hummer Performance, again, citing that they only do upgrades and refuse to work on any 6.2 or 6.5s or do any related installs.

Now that my efforts are exhausted in Florida, I am now getting quotes in Georgia.
 
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TOBASH

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You might find that an engine swap is not as scary or difficult as you think.

I got lucky with my mechanic who knows HMMWV's, but others are not that fortunate.

You live in Florida, so you have better weather and might be able to work outside under a tent or in a garage depending where you live. There are several on this forum with horrible back and knee and arthritis issues who DIY. They find ways to just make it work.

Best of luck.

T
 

Action

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Since you have limited space, i still think a bog storage locker would give you lockable space to do the job.
a flea market in Ft Myets rents indoor storage space for vehicles. Access all week. Or rent a space and hang tarps so people cant see you working.
 
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