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help to lose the black outs.

I'd like to lose the blackout lighting system.. The lights I'd like to change to 12 volt and use for running lights. The switches I'd like to just remove. Then I'd like to have the headlights work like a civvy truck.
Also, can I just remove the data testing port and tuck the terminal up behind the dash?
Once I've done this, I may be done de-milling it and be ready to use it as a daily driver.
 

Crash_AF

Active member
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Location
Colorado Springs, CO
I'm almost 100% certain that you can remove the STE-ICE plug under the dash without any problems. It comes out of the firewall towards the center on the heater side. Just unplug that connector there and pull it through from the inside.

To get rid of the BO light system, make two jumper wires and then unplug the service light switch (the one on the right) and jumper the orange to orange-black and white to white-black wires in the plug. Wrap it with tape and secure it behind the dash. Or if you don't care to keep it original, cut the wires and splice them together.

Later,
Joe
 

EO2NMCB

Member
643
22
18
Location
DeSoto, MO
Just my 2 cents worth, but why remove the ste-ice plug? If it isn't broken don't fix it. If you don't want to look at it, why not just unbolt it from the bottom of the dash. Then wire tie it up under the dash out of sight.
 

mangus580

New member
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Western NY
Bypassing the switch is quite simple. You need a jumper to plug in, in place of the right switch, to effectively make the same connection it does when its in the UP position.

Now... IF done right... you could actually use those switches, and the bulk of the wiring, to provide your 'new' lights with power. The power is 12v anyway. You would want to look at the schematic to understand how its wired, but its pretty simple.
 

m4A1

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California
If you use the bo wires to wire your new lights check the amp ratings because the bo lights are LED and should not require much amps so the wiring might not be designed for high amps.
 

mangus580

New member
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Western NY
Worst case... you can use the existing wiring to switch a relay setup. Would still somewhat simplify running any new wiring
 
I really don't care about re-using the switches, seams some of the hardcore restorers here could put them to better use. I eventually see myself going all twelve volt, with the possible exception of the starter. Though that under dash relay worries me. Seems there must be a better way than a trouble prone part like that that can burn out your starter.
 

mangus580

New member
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Location
Western NY
Seems there must be a better way than a trouble prone part like that that can burn out your starter.
There is, replace it with a better relay like the glow plugs use.

Do some searching on the site... there are a bunch of descriptions on how to wire them up.
 
That would be good. Will do. May also use such a relay to power my fuse box. Do you know the amp rating? Also, if the black out lights are already 12volt, why do I even need to remove them??? Me so stoopid sometimes.
Gotta say, cruising in the 1009 is way cool! Having pleasant flashbacks to the good ol days!
 

crusty

New member
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Location
New Castle, DE
Bypassing BO lights

I'm not so sure that putting a jumper at the switch location is the best way to eliminate the Service/Blackout light function. It's my understanding that the standard setup uses an "ice cube" relay to switch the service light's considerable current. If a jumper were used at the switch location, it would be as if the switch were permanently left on, leaving the relay energized even when the vehicle was parked. This would, over time, deplete the front battery. Better to just locate and remove the relay and install the jumper in the relay socket.
 
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