Help with some specs

[schimms15]

I dropped my heads off at the shop today and they couldn’t find the valve recession numbers. I brought the heads in to get decked while I have them off for a head gasket change.

Does anyone know the number so I can give it to them? If not they are going to measure it deck the head then grind the valves to achieve the old number before head decking.


Also when I pulled the heads I had to get the tappets back down the hole on a few of them. I am concerned about any debris that might have fallen down in there. My idea is to pour oil or acetone down the head after I scrape off all gasket material before putting the new heads on. Then draining the oil and refilling for the break in. Any idea if this is a good or bad idea?

 

[cattlerepairman]

I went through that with two shops that would not touch the heads without a full set of specs.

Look at TM-2815-210-34-2-2,

Page 4-207 and following for the heads
Page 4-220 and following pages for valve specs. Page 4-228 has a diagram.

TM can be downloaded here: http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/LD-465Maint.Man.TM9-2815-210-34-2-2.pdf

 

[schimms15]

Thanks, do you know how much you had decked off?

 

[WillWagner]

Did you check warp? If there is no warpage, which is unlikely to be out of spec UNLESS it has been run hot, no need to surface heads.

 

[schimms15]

I did not check warp myself. I got it with a blown head gasket as it sprays coolant out right where the head meets he block. I am guessing it was run hot before I got it due to the failure.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Did you check warp? If there is no warpage, which is unlikely to be out of spec UNLESS it has been run hot, no need to surface heads.

What he said was what the shop told me as well regarding resurfacing. They checked the heads, were fine with the deck but all up in arms about cracks and wanted to magnaflux and weld everything. In the end, I mounted a set of brand new OEM heads that came assembled with new valves. Less work for me.

I would have the shop check the heads for flatness, polish if required, check the valves and if that's it - that's it.

 

[schimms15]

Where did you get the new heads? The shop is checking for warp I know that thy are also pressure testing the heads and checking for cracks. Should be fine there with low hours. I figure if they need to be decked then they should be if not the shop will Check them and see if they are good and not deck them. If they do deck them they will grind the valves so the recession is correct.

 

[WillWagner]

And if the old style gaskets were on it, that is a very common issue. There is absolutely zero seal around any fluid passages on the old style gaskets. Coolant will pizz out of the groove that exits under the exh. port. Put new style gaskets on it and drive it. If the heads are cracked between the valves, that is an indicator of being run hot. Make sure you put a new stat and seal in it while it's apart.

 

[schimms15]

I dropped the heads off at the shop yesterday, The gaskets I thought were old style but didnt get a picture of them once I got the heads off and had to run right away so maybe they were new style. Best practice at least getting the heads checked then decked if need as flatter is better. not sure how tight I have to watch the military spec of 0.005 max deck as that is almost nothing. I am hoping to get a clean bill of health for the truck as I want to put it together and drive it over the 4th. The coolant leak literally ran the surface between the head and block on the manifold side i believe. So bad when you started it with a full radiator it looked like it was raining down on the axle. I do think it got hot at one point I am just not sure of how bad or how hot.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Where did you get the new heads?

From TNJ Murray http://www.tnjmurray.com/militaryve...roduct/id/78F67419-F62A-A8A0-21DC51C2D4508AE8

 

[schimms15]

shop called back, said the head is warped .002 so i figured they should deck them they figured they could take off .004 total to get it there. The valves have a very light leak in them and one small crack, they are going to pin and repair the crack they figured 300 to do the valve job. It ran fine before and really didn't seem to have any issues i could notice so I told them not to do that as it would double my bill. The guy did say it was a super light leak on 3 valve and not bad with only 500 hours on the truck I should have alot of life left in those heads before they need any real work.