Toddbo35
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Can anyone please help me with these and tell me where they go?
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Help with wiring
- Thread starter Toddbo35
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Is that a fuel filter the wires are coming off of? If it is, those wires will not hook up to anything on the vehicle. You have a aftermarket fuel filter not original to the CUCV.
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The second photo looks like they go to the drivers side alternator.
The Brown wire with push on connector goes to the tach buffer connection and the Black/White wire goes to the ground connection.
The Brown wire with push on connector goes to the tach buffer connection and the Black/White wire goes to the ground connection.
Toddbo35
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Thank you for the response. Kinda stumbling my way through trying to get it running
SomeNewGuy
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It takes time friend, we are all here to help
DarkSeas
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I agree with AC about the alternator, I just pulled some lines yesterday off one of my alternators and the connector looked just like that.
Toddbo35
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Well I got all the alternators and batteries installed. Also figured out that the 12 volt main lead was missing and installed it. Power comes to ignition switch now. However all I get when attempting to start it is the glow plug clicking. It won't crank. The starter does nothing. Any ideas?
Toddbo35
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Also found these 2 wires on top front of engine. Any idea what they go to?
Attachments
Toddbo35
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One is green and one is pink
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With out those wires plugged in you'll never get it started. You should be able to figure out where they go fairly easy.
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Well, if it was all that easy, why didn't you tell him where they go.
Below, is a diagram of the ignition system, or part of it. Pink wire seem to go to the fuel shut off. Is there a pink wire on your IP, Injector pump?
Below, is a diagram of the ignition system, or part of it. Pink wire seem to go to the fuel shut off. Is there a pink wire on your IP, Injector pump?
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Maybe @ezgn was making it a learning moment?
Lead the horse to water...
Give a man a fish - or - Teach a man to Fish (more likely)
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I was prepared for some possible push back on that one. You are right, I normally would have just told him. But I thought, as Mullaney said, It would be a chance for him to figure out a solution with minimal effort on his own. The wire has about an inch of play which limits the possibilities of where it can connect. No disrespect intended.
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None take I hope. I do the same with folks in the generators, sometimes. But wire problems are tough if your not up to speed on them. I am dyslexic, and wire diagrams still kick my butt.
Todd, have you down loaded the TM's for your truck? Asks the TM nag.
Todd, have you down loaded the TM's for your truck? Asks the TM nag.
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- Lake Elsinore Ca.
The pink wire hooks into the spade connector on the top part of the injection pump, and the green wires hook on the spade connector more towards the firewall on the pump. I believe the connectors will only fit the correct size spade on the injection pump.
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The last time I worked on a CUCV , Jimmy Carter was in office.
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- Lake Elsinore Ca.
Have you been under the truck to check and make sure you have a starter, that is wired up and bolted up securely, and is not missing the starter bracket. Check the batteries with a volt meter to see if you have 24 volts. Check all your fuses. Check the volts at the starter, it should be 24 volts. Check the voltage at the start terminal of the solenoid on the starter while someone holds the key on. The batteries should hold at least 12.5 volts each with the engine not running. A load test on the batteries will determine if the batteries are able to turn the starter. Check these things first before digging into other possibilities.
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Keith_J
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The green has two connections, one is external and bumps the throttle when cold, the other is internal and opens the fuel return check valve. The check valve maintains about 10 PSI of case pressure when the engine is warm. Both get power from the thermal switch on rear passenger side of cylinder head.
The pink powers a solenoid internal to the pump, this is the main fuel cutoff and must be energized to run.
Both circuits are powered by switched power from the ignition switch.
It appears you have a HMMWV injection pump, this from the Packard style connector boot and bullet connector. Both are 24 volt and won't connect or work.. These can be swapped out with only removal of the top cover. Parts will cost about $120 new for good ones. You could also use relays to switch 24 volt if you are electrically gifted. Relays would be cheaper, would need 2 at about $15 each with socket.
If you go with the internal and proper fix, Badger Diesel has the required and quality parts.
The pink powers a solenoid internal to the pump, this is the main fuel cutoff and must be energized to run.
Both circuits are powered by switched power from the ignition switch.
It appears you have a HMMWV injection pump, this from the Packard style connector boot and bullet connector. Both are 24 volt and won't connect or work.. These can be swapped out with only removal of the top cover. Parts will cost about $120 new for good ones. You could also use relays to switch 24 volt if you are electrically gifted. Relays would be cheaper, would need 2 at about $15 each with socket.
If you go with the internal and proper fix, Badger Diesel has the required and quality parts.
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Keith_J
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You are going to need to look up the "Doghead relay" mod here..most of the truck is 12 volt, the starter requires 24 volts so there is a relay under the dash which takes the 12 volt starter command from the ignition switch and this relay switches to 24 volts.. without this relay system working, the starter won't.
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I always enjoy reading your posts. You are a very knowledgeable and explain things in depth. I learn something from you almost every post you make.
guy