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Here We Go Again Low Voltage M1009

Keith_J

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Schertz TX
@Tow4 I feel silly asking, could you explain how to do that/check that?


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There are 3 terminals on the back (ODE) side, B+, B- and tach.
The tach terminal is smooth, B+ and B- are threaded and labeled. B+ to positive, B- to negative, leave tach alone, only uses on the driver side for diagnostic port.

The threaded posts may have colored insulators. B- is on the back, B+ is on the recessed area with tach.download.jpeg
 

jplace1011

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I went and had both batteries and both alternators tested at O’Reily’s. The batteries passed, but the Passengers Side Alternator failed. That is the one that I just purchased from Hillbilly Wizard. I also have 2 extra alternators: one was recently rebuilt locally and the other is the one that was in the vehicle when I tested it.

The two extra alternators both failed as well. All 3 failed? I don’t know if I buy that, seems a bit of a stretch probability speaking. I could be wrong. The guy at O’Reily’s was very young and may not have conducted the tests properly.

So **** if I know if the alternators work??

The cable on the Negative Bus Is a bit loose. This is where the mechanic said the bolt is stripped.I’ve wondered if he’s the one who stripped it. I think I’ll just purchase a used Negative Bus Port from Hillbilly Wizard. Either that or try replacing the stripped bolt.


I am blown away how no one seems to know what they are doing as mechanics and at these auto shops. I don’t exactly know either, but I am the first to admit it.

Anyhow I’ll report back after I take 5-10 years of GM courses in Detroit! Just kidding after I get the used bus port next week.

Thanks again.


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Last edited:

jplace1011

Well-known member
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Location
Santa Ana, CA
I went and had both batteries and both alternators tested at O’Reily’s. The batteries passed, but the Passengers Side Alternator failed. That is the one that I just purchased from Hillbilly Wizard. I also have 2 extra alternators: one was recently rebuilt locally and the other is the one that was in the vehicle when I tested it.

The two extra alternators both failed as well. All 3 failed? I don’t know if I buy that, seems a bit of a stretch probability speaking. I could be wrong. The guy at O’Reily’s was very young and may not have conducted the tests properly.

So **** if I know if the alternators work??

The cable on the Negative Bus Is a bit loose. This is where the mechanic said the bolt is stripped.I’ve wondered if he’s the one who stripped it. I think I’ll just purchase a used Negative Bus Port from Hillbilly Wizard. Either that or try replacing the stripped bolt.


I am blown away how no one seems to know what they are doing as mechanics and at these auto shops. I don’t exactly know either, but I am the first to admit it.

Anyhow I’ll report back after I take 5-10 years of GM courses in Detroit! Just kidding after I get the used bus port next week.

Thanks again.


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@Tow4

Drivers Side Alt Wiring:



Passengers Side Alt. Wiring:



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ezgn

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
I went and had both batteries and both alternators tested at O’Reily’s. The batteries passed, but the Passengers Side Alternator failed. That is the one that I just purchased from Hillbilly Wizard. I also have 2 extra alternators: one was recently rebuilt locally and the other is the one that was in the vehicle when I tested it.

The two extra alternators both failed as well. All 3 failed? I don’t know if I buy that, seems a bit of a stretch probability speaking. I could be wrong. The guy at O’Reily’s was very young and may not have conducted the tests properly.

So **** if I know if the alternators work??

The cable on the Negative Bus Is a bit loose. This is where the mechanic said the bolt is stripped.I’ve wondered if he’s the one who stripped it. I think I’ll just purchase a used Negative Bus Port from Hillbilly Wizard. Either that or try replacing the stripped bolt.


I am blown away how no one seems to know what they are doing as mechanics and at these auto shops. I don’t exactly know either, but I am the first to admit it.

Anyhow I’ll report back after I take 5-10 years of GM courses in Detroit! Just kidding after I get the used bus port next week.

Thanks again.


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You're doing great making a good effort to diagnose your problems. Don't get down just continue to persevere. You will succeed. I doubt your mechanic stripped the bolt. He told you about it, and that was the right thing to do.
 

ezgn

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Lake Elsinore Ca.
@Keith_J

Here’s a pic of the Brown Wire. It isn’t terrible, but I will end up cutting the wire and crimping it.



I was also able to figure out what is what on the back of the alternator. It’s actually written on there. Imagine that!!




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From the looks of your pigtail wires that plug into the alternator, you appear to have a good size nick in the wire. You also appear to have a lot of build up of old grease. I would pull the pigtails off the alternators and replace them with new ones. AC Delco PT2288 Alternator Pigtail $8.46 at Amazon.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
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Location
Santa Ana, CA
With key on, engine off, measure voltage on the red wire in the 2 conductor block. Should be 24+ volts to ground. Same with the brown.
I cleaned (via electric spray cleaner, a steel brush and steel wool pads) the crap out of all the connections to the Positive and Negative Bus Bars. The only one I didn’t take apart and clean is the stripped Bolt piece. I just tighted it as much as possible with my fingers. I suspect that the cable to the stripped bolt is the Ground Cable. I noticed the other end runs out of the engine compartment down near the frame on the passengers side and up into the rear rear of/near the cab. I may be wrong??

I even cleaned every wire and cable I could get my hands on with multipurpose wipes. Now you can actually see the color of each one.

I also cleaned the plug that goes into the Passengers Side Alternator. It was disgusting how much goop there was in the plug. It’s as if someone left it in used motor oil for a month.

I also cleaned the Cables for the batteries. There’s a large Plug that sits behind the Rear Battery that goes to the Fuel Filter. It was filthy and I cleaned it.



Before:


After:




My plan is to Measure both Batteries tomorrow then drive it and test them again.

The One thing I noticed is Both Turn Signal Lights are Now On!! What gives??




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Tow4

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Orlando, FL
Take the alternators and the picture with the B- terminal circled to a different place (or the same place) and have them tested. Show the picture to the technician so he will know where to put the ground.

Or, Click Here and do it yourself.

Disconnect all of the vehicle wires from the alternator under test and tape them up. Run jumpers directly to the battery as directed in the test procedure.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
458
481
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Take the alternators and the picture with the B- terminal circled to a different place (or the same place) and have them tested. Show the picture to the technician so he will know where to put the ground.

Or, Click Here and do it yourself.

Disconnect all of the vehicle wires from the alternator under test and tape them up. Run jumpers directly to the battery as directed in the test procedure.
Before I forget, any idea why my Turn Signal Lights are both now ON when I turn the lights on at night? They weren’t doing this before.

I just tested the batteries after the M1009 sat over night. It did click for half a second. I think it’s safe to say the New Rebuilt Alternator is Bad and I’m sticking to my Plan to Replace the Neg Bus Terminal with the Stripped Bolt. I may replace the Plug that goes into the Passengers Side Alternator as well.




Thank you for the Alternator Testing Idea and pictures I appreciate it. I can’t successfully run it, too many steps without help. I’m a much better learner with Video. It’s how my so called Brain operates more ideally.

I’ll report back.


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Squibbly

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Location
South Carolina
Here is one of my infamously bad videos.
I test the batteries with the engine off, and at the alternators.
Then I test them all with the truck running.
I don't usually unplug the regulator to check from there because I figure the reading at the posts should tell me what I need to know.

Mistakes everywhere, but it's hot out and I got stuff to do. :D
Your front battery negative may be on the other side of the battery. I flipped mine around from how it originally was because it made more sense and I'm not going to accidentally touch a ratchet to the front battery+ to the body by accident.

I also know I'm supposed to have post covers on those alternators, but I like living dangerously, and I haven't gotten around to it. :oops:

In this case I actually have a battery reading low with the truck running, but it's good at the alternator posts, so I probably have a dirty corroded connector someplace....or I need to pull the regulator plug and test per @Tow4's great instructions, but this should at least get you started in the right direction. I'm not too worried about it right now.

Take off all your jewelry when you’re playing with 24v system, unless you want a nice tattoo of your jewelry on your body, like the guy from Raiders of the Lost Ark that picked up the hot Staff of Ra top.

The most important tip is … don’t die.

 
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jplace1011

Well-known member
458
481
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Here is one of my infamously bad videos.
I test the batteries with the engine off, and at the alternators.
Then I test them all with the truck running.
I don't usually unplug the regulator to check from there because I figure the reading at the posts should tell me what I need to know.

Mistakes everywhere, but it's hot out and I got stuff to do. :D
Your front battery negative may be on the other side of the battery. I flipped mine around from how it originally was because it made more sense and I'm not going to accidentally touch a ratchet to the front battery+ to the body by accident.

I also know I'm supposed to have post covers on those alternators, but I like living dangerously, and I haven't gotten around to it. :oops:

In this case I actually have a battery reading low with the truck running, but it's good at the alternator posts, so I probably have a dirty corroded connector someplace....or I need to pull the regulator plug and test per @Tow4's great instructions, but this should at least get you started in the right direction. I'm not too worried about it right now.

Take off all your jewelry when you’re playing with 24v system, unless you want a nice tattoo of your jewelry on your body, like the guy from Raiders of the Lost Ark that picked up the hot Staff of Ra top.

The most important tip is … don’t die.

@Squibbly This is Awesome! Thank you for the video.

One quick Question. I just want to double check/verify. The Second Alternator you’re testing, the one that is harder to access. What 2 points on the Alternator are you touching with the Probes?

Do the probes go where I placed the X marks? The Top Point is Marked Bat and the Lower Point is marked Neg.




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jplace1011

Well-known member
458
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Location
Santa Ana, CA
Yes.

Also, you may want to look into this nicked wire from your photos.
Perfect! I already ordered a New Plug to replace the nicked up one. It should be here tomorrow. In the meantime I will test both alternators while the vehicle is Off and while it’s Running. I’ll report back.

Thank you again sir.


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jplace1011

Well-known member
458
481
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Perfect! I already ordered a New Plug to replace the nicked up one. It should be here tomorrow. In the meantime I will test both alternators while the vehicle is Off and while it’s Running. I’ll report back.

Thank you again sir.


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@Squibbly any idea why my Turn Signals are both On when I turn the lights On?


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