HMMWV Glowplug controller and Pcb Box Question!

[Deven534]

i have a M1097 HMMWV and it had a problem with the wait-to-sart light not coming on and the glowplugs not working at all...i troublshot it and it led me to a bad glowplug controller because i had continuity on pin a and b from the engine harness pcb connector. Now i put a new glowplug controller in it ( had the same yellow band around it just like the last one, and the pcb box has a yellow sticker on it too) and it still doesn't work with the brand new glowplug controller i put in. Now my question is when a glowplug controller goes bad, do you have to switch out the pcb box too like as a set? will a pcb box not work with its original glowplug controller? i dont get it...because when i order a pcb box it comes with a new glowplug controller, but what if only your controller is bad, you have to change out the pcb box with it? someone please help me out..the controller and pcb box are both yellow as i said and made by KDS..thank you for looking!

 

[Army Kid]

i have a M1097 HMMWV and it had a problem with the wait-to-sart light not coming on and the glowplugs not working at all...i troublshot it and it led me to a bad glowplug controller because i had continuity on pin a and b from the engine harness pcb connector. Now i put a new glowplug controller in it ( had the same yellow band around it just like the last one, and the pcb box has a yellow sticker on it too) and it still doesn't work with the brand new glowplug controller i put in. Now my question is when a glowplug controller goes bad, do you have to switch out the pcb box too like as a set? will a pcb box not work with its original glowplug controller? i dont get it...because when i order a pcb box it comes with a new glowplug controller, but what if only your controller is bad, you have to change out the pcb box with it? someone please help me out..the controller and pcb box are both yellow as i said and made by KDS..thank you for looking!

Not a "matched set", I have replaced just the controller in the x-over before, no prob. I have a few spares just in case. (you do have to have the correct controller for the box you use). I've had a similar issue. Wouldn't kick power to the glow plugs, would just crank (unless it was a hot day). It was the PCB. Even a NOS PCB let me down. Current one I have is the smart start by KDS. Uses the yellow band controller.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Not trying to bust chops,here, but we all need to get the terminology correct on these boxes, I say this because the Old units that the goverment used and have been replaced are in fact valid names, so when someone say PCB I think old box=bad or GPC, I think glow plug controller=bad, here is the new terms, sorry, but this is what they call them in the TM

1. GPC glow plug controller is Now the "TSU" Temp Sending Unit, it does not control anything, only send temp signal to the EESS box under the dash.
2. PCB Protective control box is now the "EESS" Engine electrical starting system.

the reason I stress using the correct parts terminology is because alot of folks are still buying and installing it and when we get posts saying we are using a PCB and GPC, it has to be assumed you have old outdated defective electronics....
anyway, hope this helps.

 

[Deven534]

So can the EESS (PCB) boxes be rebuilt?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Never bothered, I have opened them and found some burned wired once....and there was an issue early on with water getting into the EESS cuz folks did not use the runner donut that comes with the unit.

 

[DawGoneIt]

how much do you fork over for a (EESS) smart start KDS? And you do you purchase one from? I want to upgrade the starting system in a M998. thanks

 

[robmcmichael]

how much do you fork over for a (EESS) smart start KDS? And you do you purchase one from? I want to upgrade the starting system in a M998. thanks

If i swap out my box, either PCB or EESS, do I need to change the glow plugs? I left my ignition kill switch on by accident and now rig won't start. Brand new batteries and still nothing.....

 

[Milcommoguy]

Explain how this kill switch works. The ON / OFF terms are a bit confusing. Really need more info to began a better diagnostic solution.

Hard / challenging time to work electrical issues over the internet. NO magic bullet. Makes for a guessing game.

If you have money to burn one could end up changing a bunch of stuff for no good reason.

You can change them for the drill, IMO testing make more sense. Follow the trouble shooting in the TM or get back with some more info to fill in the blanks.

My first guess is get your wallet out.

Details are in the pudding, CAMO

 

[robmcmichael]

Explain how this kill switch works. The ON / OFF terms are a bit confusing. Really need more info to began a better diagnostic solution.

Hard / challenging time to work electrical issues over the internet. NO magic bullet. Makes for a guessing game.

If you have money to burn one could end up changing a bunch of stuff for no good reason.

You can change them for the drill, IMO testing make more sense. Follow the trouble shooting in the TM or get back with some more info to fill in the blanks.

My first guess is get your wallet out.

Details are in the pudding, CAMO

Switch is basically me putting a key in like an igntion and turning it to the on position and then when done turning it back off and taking key out. After I turn it on a click should be heard in the battery compartment, but when I go to start it it won't start like its not getting the rest of the power after the solenoid in the compartment.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Switch is basically me putting a key in like an igntion and turning it to the on position and then when done turning it back off and taking key out. After I turn it on a click should be heard in the battery compartment, but when I go to start it it won't start like its not getting the rest of the power after the solenoid in the compartment.

Sooo now we have some info that point us or me in a direction. One has a slave solenoid breaking I guess the battery feed. Ground side or positive not a big deal.

Got to ask... like the doctor... ya got to cough and where does it hurt?

Let the diagnostics begin.......

Do the headlight work?

Does the heater motor run with the start stop switch in the RUN position? Does the starter turn over.

Those asking what road are we going down, sit tight. There is a logical connection to simple BOX action.

Any click relay sounds from "generic term" BOX.

What is the outside temperature?

Last time it was started?

Do you have 24 volts at the IP pump solenoid in the RUN position?

What is IP resistance? (pull lead, ohms solenoid contact pin on IP to ground. The front one)

Might try to crank it over a few times? Getting any white smoke out the tail pipe?

WAIT light flash or steady timed action? Any dipping action of the panel voltmeter, like a window wiper?

Bad boys siphon out ALL the fuel,? Had to ask.

Got fuel pressure? Crack the water separator and crank away making a puddle. Close it off tight when done. Puddle yes no ?

Time to get out the mulitmeter and makes some test, glow plug resistance of EACH one ?

How about a voltage here and there. IP pump, batteries, that solenoid thing you have going on. NOT... ON, but is it turning ON,making the juice flow.

Start making the story up for the expensive BOX.

Answer the above and call me in the morning, DR. CAMO







more info

 

[robmcmichael]

Sooo now we have some info that point us or me in a direction. One has a slave solenoid breaking I guess the battery feed. Ground side or positive not a big deal.

Got to ask... like the doctor... ya got to cough and where does it hurt?

Let the diagnostics begin.......

Do the headlight work?

Does the heater motor run with the start stop switch in the RUN position? Does the starter turn over.

Those asking what road are we going down, sit tight. There is a logical connection to simple BOX action.

Any click relay sounds from "generic term" BOX.

What is the outside temperature?

Last time it was started?

Do you have 24 volts at the IP pump solenoid in the RUN position?

What is IP resistance? (pull lead, ohms solenoid contact pin on IP to ground. The front one)

Might try to crank it over a few times? Getting any white smoke out the tail pipe?

WAIT light flash or steady timed action? Any dipping action of the panel voltmeter, like a window wiper?

Bad boys siphon out ALL the fuel,? Had to ask.

Got fuel pressure? Crack the water separator and crank away making a puddle. Close it off tight when done. Puddle yes no ?

Time to get out the mulitmeter and makes some test, glow plug resistance of EACH one ? and a voltage here and there. IP pump, batteries.

Start making the story up for the expensive BOX.

Answer the above and call me in the morning, DR. CAMO







more info

The click happens in the box after I turn the key on the switch and then nothing after that click from the box. No power to anything and no engine turning over. It has been a few weeks for me to have started it. I have been trying to diagnose by myself, but first time diesel and M998, so not knowledgeable of a lot.

 

[Milcommoguy]

OK... I go easy on you. LOL

Be careful to the terminology I say "BOX" and mean the PCB or EESS. You say box and mean ???? battery box where the KILL / CUT OFF solenoid lives.

Answer some or most of the question for "extra credit" You were quick to respond. In that time, I am leaning towards something funky in that area...

IF BIG IF ... You said " No power to anything and no engine turning over" One needs to get in there and make some measurement, EYES wide open.

Bad parts being bad in the battery box. That where I would snoop things out first. Take sometime as I am clocking out for now.

Snoop Dog chasing a bone, CAMO

 

[robmcmichael]

OK... I go easy on you. LOL

Be careful to the terminology I say "BOX" and mean the PCB or EESS. You say box and mean ???? battery box where the KILL / CUT OFF solenoid lives.

Answer some or most of the question for "extra credit" You were quick to respond. In that time, I am leaning towards something funky in that area...

IF BIG IF ... You said " No power to anything and no engine turning over" One needs to get in there and make some measurement, EYES wide open.

Bad parts being bad in the battery box. That where I would snoop things out first. Take sometime as I am clocking out for now.

Snoop Dog chasing a bone, CAMO

Yeah I should've been more clear about the "box." As I have been talking with you about this I was considering wiring up the batteries without the solenoid in the system and see if that works. Because if there is absolutely no power after the solenoid probably means something is funky in the battery compartment like you said. Thanks for the help and I will keep you updated.

 

[robmcmichael]

OK... I go easy on you. LOL

Be careful to the terminology I say "BOX" and mean the PCB or EESS. You say box and mean ???? battery box where the KILL / CUT OFF solenoid lives.

Answer some or most of the question for "extra credit" You were quick to respond. In that time, I am leaning towards something funky in that area...

IF BIG IF ... You said " No power to anything and no engine turning over" One needs to get in there and make some measurement, EYES wide open.

Bad parts being bad in the battery box. That where I would snoop things out first. Take sometime as I am clocking out for now.

Snoop Dog chasing a bone, CAMO

Ok, took starter solenoid from the battery compartment out of the system and guess what... Started right up. I guess the hot side was burnt up and wouldn't let the voltage go through. Thanks for the help

 

[Milcommoguy]

Ok, took starter solenoid from the battery compartment out of the system and guess what... Started right up. I guess the hot side was burnt up and wouldn't let the voltage go through. Thanks for the help

The remote solenoid, contractor, kill switch, disconnect the batteries for security and ??? piece of mind... could be a good ideal.

As you found out it is key (not the key in hand, but key) to the flow of all the juice going to feed the truck.

Not looking to be that busting nuts or bolts guy.... but really, these Humv are simple. Writing is simple, just project your project problem in clear text, in a logical fashion / time line. Stay focused.

The combined experience here on SS if HUGE. Being a hobby it's fun to kick around issues, experiences and those "what the heck is going on".

Trying to figure out the goings on is a can of worms with one or too words let alone statements that are like..." just change the valve stem caps to fancy chrome ones. Now it wont shift out of reverse. Please help".

Guess that could happen ??? But failing to convey that two days before post, one was futzing with the shift linkage would be nice to know.

As for this "Won't Start"solenoid capper, it was fun for ME Solenoid must be of high quality, continuous duty and handle the inrush starting currents of 300 Amps to be long term reliable. Here's an idea... add a small pilot lamp / LED to indicate truck "DC BUSS ON" at the output of circuit up on the dash. Everybody likes lights. Humv now ready to GO...........

Glad you got it going,

All fun and games, Get ready for more "Won't Starts" as winter is bearing down.

ALEX...I'll take $200 for 'Won't Start"... ? What is a HumV? CAMO