Horn inoperative -- eliminate suppressor!

[cscmc1]

My M1009 had an inop horn when I bought it, so I dug in this evening. I checked the diode, just for fun, and it looked cooked... so out it came. Still no horn, but the relay clicked, so I checked the physical connections. Someone cut both the horn wire and the blackout driving light wire! I'll bet the horn stuck on at one time, and someone was in a hurry to silence it and snipped both wires, as they are near each other.

Got out the soldering iron and heat shrunk tubing, and put everything back together. Blackout light works like a charm but the horn's still just clicking. Time to get out the 12V test lamp, which reveals no power at the horn. There is a connector just ahead of the suppressor that's bolted down near the horn, and lo and behold, there is power getting TO the suppressor, but not through it. Easy peasy -- bypass the suppressor. Hooked it all back up, and I have a horn again.

Moral of the story: try the logical stuff first, and a test lamp (or meter) is your friend. If your horn is inop, and you have power at the fuse block, a good fuse, and a good relay, check for power at the horn itself. You may have a bad suppressor!

 

[pooka]

I had a similar issue on my 1009 that I also fixed tonite, I metered the conection before suppressor...good, after suppressor... good, but no honk...removed horn, grnd to bat-, jumper to bat +, horn Pos, no honk..., replaced horn unit,(cleaned grnd for good measure), bypassed suppressor(unneeded, I think), good sound Next I will eliminate the diode, as I understand this to be a source of potential problem( horn on), we'll see....

 

[iacucv]

Wish mine was so easy, my complete horn assembly is missing on the 1008 i bought. Toying with buying an aftermarket wheel/horn or just digging up a horn "button"/center cover. Might need some guidance from here since I see no wires at the wheel.

 

[BIG_RED]

Not to be a downer but.. don't you guys think that the horn suppressor probably serves a purpose? I don't know about the one on the horn, but the diodes across relays burn out switches when you remove them..

 

[pooka]

i have read on other threads that the suppressor and the diode were for the benifit of military radios to block interference, I don't believe civy trucks have them.

 

[cscmc1]

i have read on other threads that the suppressor and the diode were for the benifit of military radios to block interference, I don't believe civy trucks have them.

That's been my understanding as well, and is exactly why I felt comfortable removing these components.

 

[cscmc1]

I had a similar issue on my 1009 that I also fixed tonite, I metered the conection before suppressor...good, after suppressor... good, but no honk...removed horn, grnd to bat-, jumper to bat +, horn Pos, no honk..., replaced horn unit,(cleaned grnd for good measure), bypassed suppressor(unneeded, I think), good sound Next I will eliminate the diode, as I understand this to be a source of potential problem( horn on), we'll see....

Excellent point, pooka -- I should add that my horn was "DOA" too. I took it out, applied 12V, and initially got nothing. I figured I had little to loose, so I knocked it around a bit and got a sickly "sqkwawk" (like a dying duck). With a few more applications of 12Vm it got better little by little, and sounds OK now. Not ideal, but OK. It must have been stuck from lack of use!

 

[patracy]

Not to be a downer but.. don't you guys think that the horn suppressor probably serves a purpose? I don't know about the one on the horn, but the diodes across relays burn out switches when you remove them..

They served a very valid purpose. Lining someone's pockets on the contract that was signed!

They were installed to suppress radio interference. Civilian chevys do not have any of the suppressors on the horn or wipers. Unless you have some crucial radio guided equipment, it's a non issue to remove it.

If you do have some crucial radio guided equipment and the interference is an issue for you, I'll happily rid you of said pesky equipment.