Hot wiring a deuce.

[baja_power]

NOTE: i dont intend to steal a deuce.

my master switch is giving out on me. and i need to get it started and moved around. I'm not on a computer with CAD so i cant access the wire diagram. but i do know there are four wires going into the switch. which ones do i need to wire together to get power?

 

[wallew]

baja power,
I'm a little confused. WHICH switch is going out? The starter button on the right side of the steering wheel? Or the Accessory/Power rotary switch on the left side of the steering wheel?

I have down loaded the wiring diagram you seek and can trace it for you, I just need to know which one.

jim

 

[baja_power]

the master swich. Above the headlight swich

 

[mangus580]

All 4

one wire is power in, the other 3 are power out. I 'think' the 4 pins are labeled, and pin 1 is power in.....

btw... its the same switch as the convoy light switch, if that helps.

 

[baja_power]

wish i had convoy lights so wire 1 is power in and just distrubute it to the other 3? simple enough

 

[mangus580]

remember, I said I 'think'

maybe check the 4 wires with a meter, to make sure?


btw... Sam Winer has a good price on the convoy light kit....

 

[baja_power]

btw... Sam Winer has a good price on the convoy light kit....

gotta get it running first

 

[G744]

Au contre,your master switch has two sections double pole, single throw.

Two hot in, two switched out.

To my knowledge, they make three types of switches with the format like this. That is the type with a metal lever that is removable with a screw and is rotary in action.

First is like already described with 4 wire holes.

Second is a single pole, double throw switch for fuel tank selection, left & right. Three wire holes.

Third is that found in Hummers & the 800-seeries 5-tons, and the only one with three positions; off, on, and start (momentary). Three wire holes as well.

dg

In older trucks, they used the four hole arangement to isolate the generator from the battery in case the regulator cutout failed. On newer trucks, it depends on the vehicle. Some trucks only use one section with rubber plugs in the other. Most M35A2's use both sections, one runs the tank fuel pump the other runs everything else like gages, starter circuit, eTc. The power is fed by a split hookup from a circuit breaker.

Luckily, all the 4-hole switches are identical and plentiful.

dg

 

[mangus580]

thanks dg!!! this is why I told him to use a voltmeter

 

[rizzo]

Au contre,your master switch has two sections double pole, single throw.

Two hot in, two switched out.

To my knowledge, they make three types of switches with the format like this. That is the type with a metal lever that is removable with a screw and is rotary in action.

First is like already described with 4 wire holes.

Second is a single pole, double throw switch for fuel tank selection, left & right. Three wire holes.

Third is that found in Hummers & the 800-seeries 5-tons, and the only one with three positions; off, on, and start (momentary). Three wire holes as well.

dg

In older trucks, they used the four hole arangement to isolate the generator from the battery in case the regulator cutout failed. On newer trucks, it depends on the vehicle. Some trucks only use one section with rubber plugs in the other. Most M35A2's use both sections, one runs the tank fuel pump the other runs everything else like gages, starter circuit, eTc. The power is fed by a split hookup from a circuit breaker.

Luckily, all the 4-hole switches are identical and plentiful.

dg

I tested one with a cont. tester and got the same results