How do you drain the air tanks?

[TexAndy]

Yes, stupid question, I know, but I couldn't figure it out from the TM and none of the search results really talked about it here. It was hard to tell if the TM diagram was indicating a pitch motion or a yaw motion.

I tried twisting the little lever with the spring on the other end (pitch motion), and a few droplets of water fell down, but that was it. No air release or anything.

I suppose I could unscrew that whole tap thingy or whatever it is from the tanks, but I'd have to put some teflon tape on the threads to screw it back on, for a good seal, right? That just doesn't appeal to me, to drain the air every time that way.

Also, it looks like whoever had the truck last broke one of the tap thingys and replaced it with a bolt.

So I'm GUESSING, a yaw motion, but I wanted to be absolutely sure...

Also, does anyone sell an adapter kit or something with an extended line and a valve, so I don't have to crawl down under the truck to do this every time?

Images attached of what I'm talking about.

Sorry for the newbie question.

 

[BFR]

If the truck has been run recently it should make a good bit of noise when you open those valves. there are kits on ebay that will replace those with pull cord activated valves.

 

[dittle]

You may have rust in your petcock valve on the non-working one. Since you're in Texas I doubt it is ice like we have up north here. I have seen some deuces where they have taken a metal line out of each tank and extended the drain valves out and mounted them by the pioneer tool rack. Just be sure to keep the valve end lower than the tank end so that the water will actually drain out.

 

[drgreg]

The valve on the tank nearest to the frame looks OK, with the handle perpendicular to the ground the tank should drain, if not you should release the pressure from the tank and replace the valve / clean any crud from the tank. The other valve is FUBAR and needs to be replaced, Saturn Surplus has a remote kit for the valves.

On closer inspection the second valve looks like a standard petcock with a bolt attached, turn this valve clockwise to open.

 

[Jinx]

FWIW, here's a photo of my air tanks. You just turn those little petcocks.

 

[emmado22]

With NO airpressure in the tanks, open up the petcocks and shove a small punch or screwdriver into the petcock hole. It's probably crudded up with stuff and needs a cleaning. Some WD-40 might help too.

 

[TexAndy]

With NO airpressure in the tanks, open up the petcocks and shove a small punch or screwdriver into the petcock hole. It's probably crudded up with stuff and needs a cleaning. Some WD-40 might help too.

So go ahead and remove the petcocks from the tanks to release the air, then clean the petcock valves, and screw back onto the tanks?

 

[scooter01922]

You should never need to unscrew the petcocks from the tank unless you are installing new ones or something. They can get a bit sticky if not opened for a long time and may require some persuasion but they should turn and drain. Looks like the inside one even has a bolt added to the stupid little handle for more leverage.

 

[datsunaholic]

My Duece has the same bolt attached to one petcock like the picture above. I thought it odd, but I guess it's not so odd. The petcock works normally, just has a little extra leverage.

 

[TexAndy]

ok, I think I figured it out.

I took the petcock off and cleaned it, lubed it a little, and then put it back on, closed. Then I fired up the engine and ran it until the system pressurized.

Then I went back down and turned the petcock valve and *whoosh* let the air out. So that works.

Apparently, they either lost or broke the other valve. So they replaced it with a PLUG with a little ring and bolt welded onto it for leverage so you could unscrew the plug. Unfortunately, the ring broke, so it just turns freely. I could grip the plug by the threads, but I'd probably end up damaging the threads.

So I'll just wait until I get the aftermarket remote valve kit ya'll mentioned before I remove it and for now just stick with draining with the one petcock valve. Hopefully that'll be enough.

 

[tjcouch]

Could not find the one on Saturn Surplus after a minute or two of searching . . . but I did find this:
Haldex-Midland Air Tank Drain valve 12104

 

[fanbrain]

nOOb question.

How often do you have to drain the tanks?

I assume the handbrake keeps it from rolling if there is no air for the brakes. Am I up in the night?

 

[hndrsonj]

http://saturnsurplus.com/m35/9387.jpg listed as air resevoir kit. Under $19

 

[hndrsonj]

Oh, and you drain them after every use.

 

[lavarok]

Don't buy the surplus kit that Saturn sells. The rings on the end of the wires WILL fall off if you pull too hard....which will happen. Trust me.

I bought some new drain valves at Ryder Fleet Products - Starting Page

Regular valve: U80 036021 - $6.27 ea
Pull string valve: U55 12104 - $7.46 ea

Search by "Part Number" - Good stuff!

 

[scooter01922]

Fanbrain, let me be the first to reccomend a good read of the -10 manual. Its sort of like the owners manual for your car. No in depth stuff but it covers all the basics. That said...... you should drain the tanks after every use. The brakes on a deuce are not airbrakes and as such won't lock/ unlock regardless of the air in the tanks when parked. The handbrake when properly adjusted does an OK job but i still wouldn't trust it without a good chock for backup.

 

[fanbrain]

Will do. Thanks all.

 

[ctmustang]

I just bought 2 air tank drains from NAPA each has about 4 ft. of cable so you can put them where you want them. about 20.00 for the pair . they work great. no more bending under the truck to drain.

 

[jjfricko]

do you have the napa number for the air tank drains ctmustang?

 

[ctmustang]

still happen to have the package-part # is 12105. the label on the plastic doesn't say napa but says Haldex. when my buddy punched in the part # it came up with the price. so it should be a NAPA part #.