How easy is it to use the Hi/Lo control on the transfer case ?

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JCole

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I need to know what sort of pressure is required and how easy it is to shift into low and high range. I need to build a linkage to pull the rod at the transfer case in/out, but I need to know the force before beginning a design.

Reason being, I have a cab-over tilt up cab, so the normal lever through the floor won't work. Has to be a mechanism that can be detached so that the cab can lift.
 

clinto

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Use telekinesis to move it-that way, if it doesn't move, just concentrate moar.
 

Kohburn

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Use a morse cable instead of linkage.
push pull cable all the way - that or pneumatics/hydraulics (two cylinders with the air bled from the system should give very consistent movement and just have to run a hose or two)

PS. good to see you post again - I've been wondering how this project was coming along since I still am hunting for a cab to convert mine with.


oh and to answer your question more directly - on my transfer case the effort to shift is very minimal maybe 5lbs of pressure on the handle of the lever. I have not measured the ends of the lever from the pivot to know what that translates to at the case, but it should not be too much.
 
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Stretch44875

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It's not bad, but to use air, how would you shift to the middle position, which is neutral?
 

JCole

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Thanks for the ideas. So a push/pull cable would be up to to the task ? Does the vehicle have to be rocked or moving slightly to get it to shift into low ?
 

m16ty

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It's not bad, but to use air, how would you shift to the middle position, which is neutral?
I've done this in similar situations. What I did was use springs to hold in center, air one end of cylinder moves it one way (say high range), and air in the other end of cylinder moves it the other way (low range). I'd probably remove the high and low detents so the centering springs wouldn't have to overcome them and it would also allow for smother shifting, the air cylinder will hold it in place so the detents aren't needed.
 

brianp454

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JCole

I could use a fish scale or something to do as your request, if I could find it in my garage... I think it would be highly variable and I find the stopped vs. movement speed and double-clutching to make it highly variable. Mine sometimes requires a good push or pull to make it all the way.

I would suggest keeping the level approximately the same length (or effective length) and mount it in a convenient location for the driver. Then use a lever arm under the cab with a variable length shaft (with a turnbuckle and a section of reverse thread on one end) and a clevis on each end. If you go to your local HW store or McMaster-Carr you should find an apparatus to do it.

I’m not fond of using a cable to push anything. You would have to count on the stiffness of the cable and potentially kink it or use a preload spring, etc. Two-way pneumatics with a valve mechanism would power it in both directions and keep it “on” in the position you choose, keeping it in the proper position without risk of popping out.
 

Kohburn

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push pull cables have been used for manual transmissions for 3 decades. I think they hold up just fine.

for air you can rig up two cylinders to push in series. each with double throw (not spring return) energize both to pull and it goes into low, energize both to push and it goes into high, energize one to push and one to pull and it goes into neutral.

pretty easy to rig a pneumatic switch to control the air flow.
 
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