How to keep a clean southern CUCV rust-free in the Northeast?

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I'm getting my logistics organized to go down South and pick up an '84 M1010 with 1,850 original miles. The truck apparently has never seen salt. I would like to keep it rust free, but I don't know how.

I've spent a lot of time reading the archives about how to prevent rust. A lot of what I read is quite old. Some posts contradict others. Some refer to web sites that no longer exist. Some sound like snake oil.

I have a '90 Chevy C3500 that was originally used for maintenance on the PA turnpike. I spent a lot of time cleaning it up and fixing rust. Then it rusted through from the inside, in areas I couldn't access. I'd like to prevent that from happening to the M1010.

I've also been reading up on soundproofing. All the soundproofing ideas seem designed to create more opportunities for rust to form between the steel and the soundproofing.

I'd appreciate any guidance as to how I can effectively preserve this truck. And if there's a way to deaden the noise without creating rust, I'd be interested in learning about that also.

Thanks!

 

[m16ty]

All the Chevys from 1970s through the 1980s are hard to keep from rusting. If you find out a solution other than not driving it during the winter, I'd also like to know.

 

[Csm Davis]

Have you heard of spraying bar and chain oil all over it? Know some folks up north that swear by it.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Have you heard of spraying bar and chain oil all over it? Know some folks up north that swear by it.

I have friends that use any oil. I would think bar and chain oil would be $$$$! They spray every 3 months in the winter., seems to be working.

 

[swbradley1]

What works for my MVs is my dry barn with a concrete floor.

I'm going to get this for my civi truck.

http://www.hinderrust.com/

 

[camoyj7]

Have you heard of spraying bar and chain oil all over it? Know some folks up north that swear by it.

I put some gear oil on the inside of my doors and tailgate on my plow truck. The oil stays in the seams where salt gets to the metal and causes rust. I've heard good things about Amsoil's metal protector. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...nts/heavy-duty-metal-protector/?code=AMHSC-EA

 

[Ray70]

Instead of oil, use SEM corrosion preventer inside the doors, inside rockers and behind the fenders. It can be found on-line or at autobody supply shops for about $25 a quart. You can spray it with a shutz gun with a wand on it to get inside sealed areas. When it dries it leaves a thick waxy/oily film and it will wick itself into seams. You should only have to apply it once and done. They also sell it in an aerosol can with a straw on it that you can use to spray directly into door bottom seams, tailgate hems and any other crevices where you have direct access. Lastly... do not use spray can undercoating on any bare metal... EVER! If there are any bare metal spots you want to undercoat, clean it, prime it (preferably self etching or zinc primer) then paint it, then once it's good and dry you can undercoat it. I would always recommend undercoating that you apply with a shutz gun rather than spray can stuff. If you have to go with spray can, always choose a good quality undercoat that says "paintable" because it will dry harder and last longer than the asphalt based ones that stay very soft. If you really want to go all-out use a 2 part truck bed liner material ( not the single component water based ones ) Or if your wallet is overflowing with excess cash, have a professional apply 2 part polyuria bedliner applied hot with a 2 part proportioner.... that is by far the extreme, expensive but the absolute BEST protection for exposed metal!

 

[Warthog]

A fellow member in Europe uses a product called Fluid Film.

http://www.fluid-film.com/
http://www.fluid-film.com/news/news_archive_2011_1007_grainger.html

Here is his reconditioning thread of a CUCV-II

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?128263-CUCV-II-Northern-Europe-Reconditioning

 

[swbradley1]

There is a problem with fat based rust inhibitors, smell.

 

[Ray70]

Yes, Fluid film is also a very good product, it goes on very thin and wicks into seams good but should be reapplied regularly. It spray on a bit thicker than normal penetrating oil but leaves a dry protective film behind once dry, unfortunately the film is not permanent so you should reapply it regularly. The beauty of fluid film is that it dries to an almost invisible coating so you can use it in visible areas where as you would only want to use the SEM corrosion preventer in concealed areas like inside doors and rockers because it dries to a thick yellowish brown color, and smells like petroleum. I have also heard people making mixtures of pure lanolin ( from sheep's wool) and solvents then spraying it on, but pure lanolin is very expensive and no, it probably does NOT smell like hand cream!

 

[Jeepsinker]

Your best bet would be to just move south of the salt belt...

 

[85CUCVtom]

Your best bet would be to just move south of the salt belt...

Thats the best way to do it!

A few guys around here have used a mixture of motor oil and kerosene sprayed through a garden sprayer. I have not done it, I don't know if it works. YMMV

I have used Fluid Film before at work on some trailers, it seems to work pretty good and does need reapplying every so often.

 

[wheelspinner]

If you have a 1800 mile rust free truck, and even think about abusing it by driving in the salty winter, well that's just a crime. Plenty of trucks out there that aren't that pristine. I would have loved a chance to buy a truck like that. Pack it away in the winter, and get a winter truck. But that's just my humble opinion.......

 

[Ray70]

Yup, Wheelspinner's got the right idea. Put it away in a nice dry garage for the winter and get yourself a cheap beater for the salty season.

 

[Csm Davis]

I have friends that use any oil. I would think bar and chain oil would be $$$$! They spray every 3 months in the winter., seems to be working.

The bar and chain oil can be bought by the gallon and I was told it has a little phosphoric acid in it that will convert rust into a protective coating.