how to turn up fuel...in pictures?

maddawg308

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Anybody got a series of pics showing how to turn up the fuel in a deuce? Mine is pretty lethargic on the hills, want to get a little more power....
 

Westech

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Just a hint sense I consider my self the King of pumping up a deuce engine...... The adjuster rod faces the radiator and might be covered with a tin cover and 3 bolts with safety wire. ONLY brake the jam nut loose (a thin 1/2 in wrench will HELP!!) and turn the inner nut. DO NOT ROTATE THE SHAFT IN ANY WAY!! If yo do that you could drop the rod that is connected to that shaft and then you ****ED IN THE A. There should be a hex in the center of the shaft to place a star wrench or what have you so you can make sure the shaft does not rotate .
 

Billy Bobbed

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How much of the screw do you turn.I went and looked at mine,its in a bad spot to adjust.Do you unlock nut and screw it out and tighten the nut back up.Need more info please.I dont want to mess it up.
 

Billy Bobbed

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Just a hint sense I consider my self the King of pumping up a deuce engine...... The adjuster rod faces the radiator and might be covered with a tin cover and 3 bolts with safety wire. ONLY brake the jam nut loose (a thin 1/2 in wrench will HELP!!) and turn the inner nut. DO NOT ROTATE THE SHAFT IN ANY WAY!! If yo do that you could drop the rod that is connected to that shaft and then you ****ED IN THE A. There should be a hex in the center of the shaft to place a star wrench or what have you so you can make sure the shaft does not rotate .
Thanks Westech
 

doghead

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Just remember, adjusting the max fuel rate without monitoring your egt's, is flirting with disaster.

Unless you read the dozens and dozens of threads on this topic and or understand what your doing and monitor your egt, don't do it!

That screw is NOT a horsepower output dial.
 

maddawg308

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That screw is NOT a horsepower output dial.
Will consider myself advised. Also will search on this topic and see if I can't find out more info.

If this adjustment raises the EGT too much, I might not consider it any further. Right now, hammer down on the flat and level I can pull 2500 rpm, maybe 2600. That's already to the limit, in my mind. Any more and you're gonna get hurt, or hurt the truck.
 

Westech

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most of the time you can go 2 flats no problem (1/3 of a turn) any more then that OR if your truck is set a little high form the Military of who ever..it could be too much off that bat. DH is correct you need to know what you are doing and have a pyro. If you turn up the fuel you really should have one installed.
 

nhdiesel

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Well I have an oddball. Older A2, non C turbo (still a turbo). It has fairly recent filters, but I'm going to change them again before doing any real adjustment; and will install a pyrometer as well. This truck is GUTLESS. I mean I can barely hit 2400 rpms on the flats, even in lower gears, no load. I know the 11.00 rubber is a slight extra drag, but they are also highway radials and only singles, so that should help a little. The truck runs smooth, starts every time no matter the temp (even when it was -10 this winter). But it seems to idle pretty low.

Here are a few pics of my pump:

HPIM0904.jpg
HPIM0905.jpg
HPIM0906.jpg

As you can see my pump is nothing like the one pictured. Where is the adjustment screw on this one?

Jim
 

Katahdin

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I had fun researching this one (new to me). Looks like you have a "code G" pump without the FDC. Basically you'd need to remove the cover and do your adjustments there, see the following for more info:

TM 9-2910-226-34
page 3-105

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/23560-fuel-density-compensator-2.html


Well I have an oddball. Older A2, non C turbo (still a turbo). It has fairly recent filters, but I'm going to change them again before doing any real adjustment; and will install a pyrometer as well. This truck is GUTLESS. I mean I can barely hit 2400 rpms on the flats, even in lower gears, no load. I know the 11.00 rubber is a slight extra drag, but they are also highway radials and only singles, so that should help a little. The truck runs smooth, starts every time no matter the temp (even when it was -10 this winter). But it seems to idle pretty low.

Here are a few pics of my pump:

View attachment 185507
View attachment 185508
View attachment 185509

As you can see my pump is nothing like the one pictured. Where is the adjustment screw on this one?

Jim
 

nhdiesel

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Thanks and repped! If there is enough time between the rain tomorrow I'll check it out. I just replaced my cracked injector line, so now I can move forward to other maintenance items.

Jim
 

jimk

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Screw and the 2 nuts are under this cover. I did one not long ago. Moved it a turn and nothing much happened. Advised that a pyrometer was important but was overuled by the owner. Turned it a second turn and not much happened. Turned it all the way and got lots of power and smoke. Pushed again for a pyro but don't think he listened. Engine had a C turbo. A boost gage would be better than nothing. If you get 12-13psi at 2600 you'll have LDS output and almost idiot proof EGT. The LD may not respond to additional fuel.
 

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Oilleaker1

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Thanks for the red arrow! I was lost reading about the triangular cover, facing right , to the rear, facing the radiator etc. The previous picture shows the two nuts , but not the rectangular cover on top at the rear. Does anyone have a picture of where ahead of the turbo you drill and tap in the pyrometer lead? I did this on my Cummins 12 valve but not on a Deuce. If you drill right after you start the engine, ( be Careful ) the exhaust pressure blows the chips up and out so the turbo doesn't eat them. Same while tapping the hole. You feel way better knowing how hot thing are when pulling a load. John
 

cranetruck

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Thanks for the red arrow! I was lost reading about the triangular cover, facing right , to the rear, facing the radiator etc. The previous picture shows the two nuts , but not the rectangular cover on top at the rear. Does anyone have a picture of where ahead of the turbo you drill and tap in the pyrometer lead? ......John
Two choices, forward three of rear three cylinders, both sets monitored here.

Remember to taper the bore for the pipe threads.
 

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Oilleaker1

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Great shot of the pyros. One will be sufficient for me. Two more gauges would be cool though. I'd do one pyro and one boost. I appreciate this thread Thank You! John
 

REO 54

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I just learned about this techique from an old warhorse mech near FT Lewis,Wa yesterday.He stated the same things as Westech;dont' allow that droopscrew to rotate and or drop!Also,he and made task specific wrench for that job by grinding down a wrench to fit.Thanks for this post guys.Good info.
 
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