Thanks WestechJust a hint sense I consider my self the King of pumping up a deuce engine...... The adjuster rod faces the radiator and might be covered with a tin cover and 3 bolts with safety wire. ONLY brake the jam nut loose (a thin 1/2 in wrench will HELP!!) and turn the inner nut. DO NOT ROTATE THE SHAFT IN ANY WAY!! If yo do that you could drop the rod that is connected to that shaft and then you ****ED IN THE A. There should be a hex in the center of the shaft to place a star wrench or what have you so you can make sure the shaft does not rotate .
Will consider myself advised. Also will search on this topic and see if I can't find out more info.That screw is NOT a horsepower output dial.
Well I have an oddball. Older A2, non C turbo (still a turbo). It has fairly recent filters, but I'm going to change them again before doing any real adjustment; and will install a pyrometer as well. This truck is GUTLESS. I mean I can barely hit 2400 rpms on the flats, even in lower gears, no load. I know the 11.00 rubber is a slight extra drag, but they are also highway radials and only singles, so that should help a little. The truck runs smooth, starts every time no matter the temp (even when it was -10 this winter). But it seems to idle pretty low.
Here are a few pics of my pump:
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As you can see my pump is nothing like the one pictured. Where is the adjustment screw on this one?
Two choices, forward three of rear three cylinders, both sets monitored here.Thanks for the red arrow! I was lost reading about the triangular cover, facing right , to the rear, facing the radiator etc. The previous picture shows the two nuts , but not the rectangular cover on top at the rear. Does anyone have a picture of where ahead of the turbo you drill and tap in the pyrometer lead? ......John
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