Hubs

[baja_power]

Are the front and rear hubs the same and interchangeable?

I had a bad wheel bearing in the back, replaced it. All is fine...

Had a front go too. But this one took some other parts with it. Including a hub.

Ive notices the hubs are drilled and Tapped on both sides. By flipping the drum around and pressing and flipping out the studs, can a rear hub be used in the front?

Attached are photos of the front hub. Note the drilled holes on both sides.

 

[Jones]

Hey Baja, good news. According to the deuce 20P manual (adobe reader pages 266-269 of 118, both front and rear hubs are the same; P/N 10896708.

 

[G744]

Hola, Baja!

Free good used hub for shipping if you like.

PM me.
Dennis

 

[Trango]

Yes yes yes!!! The hubs are totally the same ones, front to back.

If you bang the studs out, either use a press (slow and steady) or use a brass headed hammer. I go two steps further.... I hold a brass block on the top of the stud and hit THAT with big hammer, to make sure I don't ding the threads, and I even still thread a lugnut onto the stud just in case.

Hey, one other hint.... when you loosen the brakes off the hubs, they are frequently very very dusty. Even though it's a good idea to change the grease on the bearings, you can still minimize the amount of dirt and debris you drop into the bearings by, on the rear hubs, always loosening the 3/4" drum retention bolts ONLY when they are vertically under the bearings.

Meaning, when you loosening those bolts, keep the hub's axis horizontal, and just keep rolling the hub along the floor while loosening those bolts. This won't make much sense.... until you start actually loosening these bolts, and you realize that you can control how much dirt from the drum gets in the bearings.

Cheers
Bob

 

[baja_power]

awesome tip! thanks

 

[baja_power]

G744.. Check your PM's

 

[Djfreema]

An air hammer makes things alot faster too, but noisy! Takes 2 seconds to pop each stud out, 2 seconds to pop em back in.

 

[baja_power]

The inner bearing had welded itself to the spindle on the front. the torch and our air hammer made quick work of it..

 

[baja_power]

 

[bomar76]

Not welded...siezed....

 

[rdixiemiller]

Actually, if the bearing race spins on the spindle, it will weld itself on. I have had to cut the races into 3 or 4 pieces with a torch and chisel the pieces off the spindle. Then, chuck the spindle in a lathe and true it up.
Of course, by then the spindle is usually weakened enough that it should be replaced.
I have seen the spindle actually go cherry red and twist off. Had it happen to me one time on an old IHC dumper. That was a treat.
If the spindle is blued all the way around, it has been hot enough to warrant replacement.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Lotta spooge in there!

 

[bomar76]

[jjjj

 

[baja_power]

Lotta spooge in there!

used to be.. all gone now

 

[red devils dude]

this tread helped me a lot I'm pulling all my hub's and brakes after I get the engine in thanks guy's

 

[bomar76]

zzz

 

[red devils dude]

there the easy part(I've work a few old chevy's with adjusters like that) it's geting the hub's
off without get dust on every thing and how the where the race's go that I needed.

 

[rmgill]

I had always understood that there are in fact two sets of races. An inner and an outer. The bearings themselves (needles, cones or balls) run in the races and are held together by the cages.

Now, is it bad if a race can spin a touch in what it's driven into?

 

[Jones]

The race, being as hard as it is to provide a running surface for balls, needles or rollers will wallow out the mating surface on the spindle or in the hub. The heavier the vehicle, the faster it happens. Results are early and repeat replacement of the bearing assembly(s) due to misalignment, bad steering or braking from excess play in bearings, and the inability to keep bearings adjusted properly. On the far end of the scale; catastrophic failure of bearing, spindle or hub from excess heat from friction and possible loss of vehicle and crew. Short answer to " Is it bad if a race can spin..." Yes.

 

[Trango]

If a race spins SLIGHTLY in what it's driven into, there are ways of getting it to seat regardless. Of course, if the bore is slightly wallowed out unevenly, you will lose the alignment inherent to the original press or interference fit, but most of the time, if the race just BARELY moves or spins, the alignment will still be good.

Threadlocker (or is it LocTite, sorry, can't remember) makes a sleeve retainer. IIRC, it's a green tube. I had a race in a Dana axle once that had lost its press fit... that sleeve retainer product helped a TON.

Bob