I need some CARC and general paint help (mix ratios, availability, etc.)

[clinto]

I have two trucks I need to paint. Both will be 383 / 34094 colored, maybe one will be 3-color camo, but it isn't likely.

Gillespie/Rapco is great - it's cheap and it sprays easily but that's it. It's a cheap paint, with cheap materials and no catalyst. I've painted tons of stuff in various colors with it and I'd like to use a higher quality paint on these two trucks.

I do not have any interest in using house paint on these vehicles.

Both vehicles live indoors.

I see in some threads, people have referred others to a seller "armytankguy", selling paints under the name "American Coatings". So far, the only thing similar to that I've been able to find is this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1722848613...5HVFBJ&hash=item281cfa5bbd:g:DmQAAOSwnQhXpPmT

And considering they call that an enamel with a 1:4 mix ratio w/Xylene, I'm going to conclude that's not any different than Gillespie.

I do have some old CARC in my inventory and I'd like to figure out what I have and try it on some test pieces.

Yes, I do have proper protective gear, and a proper booth.

So here are the questions:

• Is there a higher quality CARC substitute than Gillespie/Rapco/AC/house paint?
  
  
• If not, what's the current CARC material? I know it's waterbourne now and has been for awhile.
  
  
• Where can the current version of CARC be purchased? Sherwin-Williams? Internet?
  
  
• ok, here is what I have in inventory. Yeah, I know they're really old. I have a paint shaker and I'll test the paint on some work materials and see how it does.
  
  

I have one gallon of this catalyst.




I have 4 gallons of this base material


And I have two gallons of this stuff.





So does that catalyst "play" with either of those base materials, and if so, in what ratio?

Thanks for any info.

 

[Ray70]

I'm not familiar with the original CARC paint, but I do have 40 years of experience painting both daily driver and show cars as well as heavy equipment and everything in between.
I would never use anything that is a single component ( No hardener ) nor would I use any type of house paint etc.
Even catalyzed enamel is pretty much a thing of the past.

Your issue is going to be finding a local paint show that carries what you want and can tint it to the colors you want.
Luckily I have a shop nearby that I have been using for at least 35 years now.

I recently started using their GlobalStar industrial polyurethane, it is available in Flat and Gloss binders ( Flat is actually more of a satin finish)
You can mix the flat and gloss binders to achieve any level of gloss you desire.
It is also a DTM ( direct to metal ) paint, or you can use it over any existing undercoat or paint etc.

Maybe take a look at automotive paint suppliers in your area and see if anyone carries it.

You can also use any other brand of single stage urethane or polyurethane, but 99% of them will come in a gloss finish, so you will need to add a flattener to it to get it to the flat/satin look.

Lastly but most time consuming and expensive would be to use any locally available basecoat system and topcoat it with flat clearcoat.

Bottom line is if you want durability and resistance to solvents, fuels, cleaners and UV rays you need to use something 2 part, an leave the latex paint for your house!

 

[emmado22]

I have lots of fresh cans 1 gallon cans of Sherwin Williams MIL-DTL-53039F Type IX Coating, Aliphatic PU, 1K, CARC, Q2342 Green 383, 34094. F93G709 Born on 2/25, exp 8/26. I am going to Weare and Gilbert. $150 per can + ride.

 

[RapcoPartsCompany]

Hi, if it's of any help we do have a hardener we offer that is compatible with our paint! We don't advertise it (and generally don't recommend it) simply due to it glossing up the finish a bit.

 

[clinto]

So does that catalyst "play" with either of those base materials, and if so, in what ratio?

Thanks for any info.

So does anyone have any idea about the compatibility of the components I posted in post #1? I have a ton of small items that just came back from blasting and I'd like to try some of this ancient stuff out. See how it does.

I'm not familiar with the original CARC paint, but I do have 40 years of experience painting both daily driver and show cars as well as heavy equipment and everything in between.

Hey Ray, thanks for responding.

I've done paint work on and off for 30 years, out of financial necessity and I'm about to have a much better climate controlled facility to work in, so I'm really excited about painting my Deuce, my Dad's Chevelle and my '65 Slowback.

I wouldn't say I enjoy the prep work, but the satisfaction when you get up at the crack of dawn and go out to the shop and the project that's been in various shades of primer for a year all of a sudden turns into a glossy thing of awesomeness is such a great feeling.



I am about to have a lift and I have a rotisserie, so once I'm done with my shop project, I'll separate the body from the frame. We're going to check the frame for any issues and repair/upgrade as necessary. Same for the body. It's a really nice, no-hit car, so it'll be pretty easy. I'm either painting it black or silver, haven't decided.



My car is much further down the road:

My car is a lot worse. It's a real Raven black, red standard interior, A-code 289 4bbl, 4speed. But it's been hit on the right side, and they put an OEM Ford quarter on it, but it was done back in the day and the quality of the work is garbage. When I paint this, it's going to be a whole lot more work to get the unibody right. It'll need inner and outer wheelhouses on the right side, etc. And these cars were probably the worst in terms of build quality and body lines of the Big 3 in the 1960s.

My Deuce is super nice, so I'm not going to take it apart. I'm going to pull the front clip and pull the engine out in order to replace a sagging front engine crossmember, do Tom's p/s kit, reseal the engine and while the front clip is off, repaint everything. Then I'll work my way backwards. I have an employee and depending on how much we get done, we may go ahead and do the entire cab, in and out, leaving just the back half to paint.

I recently started using their GlobalStar industrial polyurethane, it is available in Flat and Gloss binders (Flat is actually more of a satin finish)

You can mix the flat and gloss binders to achieve any level of gloss you desire.
It is also a DTM ( direct to metal ) paint, or you can use it over any existing undercoat or paint etc.

Maybe take a look at automotive paint suppliers in your area and see if anyone carries it.

You can also use any other brand of single stage urethane or polyurethane, but 99% of them will come in a gloss finish, so you will need to add a flattener to it to get it to the flat/satin look.

Lastly but most time consuming and expensive would be to use any locally available basecoat system and topcoat it with flat clearcoat.

Bottom line is if you want durability and resistance to solvents, fuels, cleaners and UV rays you need to use something 2 part, an leave the latex paint for your house!

Thanks for all of that.

I do have two local paint shops I work with and they like me, they're usually willing to spend a lot of time with me and answer questions and help me find the products I need for whatever weird stuff I'm doing.

If I go in and ask for GlobalStar, or any other paint system for that matter, can I give the the Federal Color Code for green CARC, or is that something that won't be applicable in a paint line like that?

All of my paint experience in life has been totally separated: when doing classic cars, it's all been gloss and either single stage or base / clear.

When doing military stuff, it's all been flat, like Gillespie or Aervoe.

At the end of the day, I'm going to spend a lot of money (sandblasting, epoxy primer and my employee's labor) and I'm going to store the truck indoors, in a climate controlled facility, but I want this paint to last but also be durable. It needs to be resistant to solvents, fuels, cleaners, UV - just like you said.

I can't get over how many things in the classic car hobby look great- until they come into contact with a little bit of brake cleaner or degreaser, and boom, turns to crap.

Whereas a modern car, you can soak the entire car in un-cut degreaser and wash it off with brake cleaner without any issue. That's what I'm after. Whoever painted my Mustang didn't do it right and any time gas dribbles out of the fuel cap (which they all do), it takes a little bit more of the paint off the rear valence.

I have lots of fresh cans 1 gallon cans of Sherwin Williams MIL-DTL-53039F Type IX Coating, Aliphatic PU, 1K, CARC, Q2342 Green 383, 34094. F93G709 Born on 2/25, exp 8/26. I am going to Weare and Gilbert. $150 per can + ride.

Hey dude

So, if I can't spray my ancient CARC, I might be interested in these, if I can get them down here.

Do you know what they need to mix with? And do you have access to it, or know where to get it? I know years ago, it was hit or miss with places like S-W not wanting to sell CARC to the public.

Hi, if it's of any help we do have a hardener we offer that is compatible with our paint! We don't advertise it (and generally don't recommend it) simply due to it glossing up the finish a bit.

Hey Rapco

Thanks for replying to my thread. I've shot hundreds of gallons of your paint and I've never had a bad batch. It's all come out like it should.

I know you can use a hardener with ya'lls paints and I don't use it specifically because of the gloss issue.

I'm really picky about details and trying to get the look of stuff just right and I don't want to add any more gloss to the paint.