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i think i found my problem on my m1009 please look ans post your opinion

lussks

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Hello let start by saying you guys have w great site. Lots of good info.

Working on a 85 m1009. It runs but will shut down after 1/4, mile but will take a couple of cranks and will start and do the same. I've bleed the fuel system looked for leaks. Then I came across the return line check valve which I've cleaned it but I took of the ip cap I found that there is a craked solonoid would that be the problem?????

Also the guy u purchased it from ran the entire k5 on 24v. Would that shortest out somethin.
 

doghead

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Good chance the shut off solenoid cracked from the over voltage.

I would replace it.
 

olly hondro

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When mine did that I had the fuel tank dropped / flushed, fuel lines cleared out with compressed air, installed a new injection pump. Haven't had the problem since.
 

Warthog

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Almost all of the Cucv electrical system is 12v.

Running 24v thru it will fry something. Sounds like you need to take an inventory of what is jacked up and then decide how you want to fix it.
 

lussks

New member
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santa ana ,california
Good chance the shut off solenoid cracked from the over voltage.

I would replace it.
Would that make it shut off intermittent I keep driving it down surface streets and it feels like its starving for fuel the previous owner put a new IP he had it driving. I think he tried converting over to 12v and could not accomplish.

Question .. is the IP 12or24v. Mine is at 12v. The other question is this dam thing starts right up with out the glow plugs. I've checked to see if there getting voltage and there's none. All the civilian 6.2 I've worked on. Won't start. I'm kinda new to the 24v system and military cucv trucks so all the info will be helpfull. Thanks in advance
 

tequilaiam

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Brazil, IN
Question .. is the IP 12or24v. Mine is at 12v. The other question is this dam thing starts right up with out the glow plugs. I've checked to see if there getting voltage and there's none.

How warm has the weather been? Maybe it gets warm enough to start without the GPs.

What voltage on the IP are you talking about? Both should be 12v either way but there's the fast idle solenoid and the cut-off one. Green and pink wires respectively. You should see 12V at the pink wire when the ignition is on and 12V at the green only when the engine is cold.

You know, I wonder if the previous owner has the throttle adjustment out of whack? If the idle adjustment is so low that the IP needs the fast idle solenoid pushing just to keep it running that may explain why it cuts off after a while.
 

tequilaiam

Member
157
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Location
Brazil, IN
Gotcha. Does it consistently re-shutdown every 1/4 mile or so? Only reason I mention it is because I had a similar problem at one point. I went over nearly every single piece of fuel line to find a leak and it was (of course) the one point that was hardest to reach that I didn't check the first 10 times: where the fuel feeds into the IP under the intake manifold.

However, it does seem that your shut-off solenoid is the most likely culprit.
 
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