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ignition switch question:

edpdx

Active member
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Location
Oregon
Read applicable threads already; but no help so far.

I have been chasing a "No Crank" problem for the past 48 hours. Ran wiring down as per TM. The situation is: Turn the key. All the requisite dash lights come on and cycle. All I hear is a click. Batteries checked, starter checked. Reminds me of an ignition switch I just changed on my Daughter's El Camino.

Q: If I am getting dash lights, could the ignition switch still be the problem? I pulled it; but did not know how to test it. Cleaned the contacts, but still no go. Anyone know of a way to test this component?
 

Jtspendy

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when you say batteries check did you test voltage or amps? A battery can have a bad cell which will allow voltage to look good but you loose all your cranking amps
 

edpdx

Active member
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Location
Oregon
I am not sure how to test amps... Is this what a "Load Test" does?

I checked voltage at the purple wire at the starter solenoid per TM -20's Malfunction test #42. I got a reading of 19.5Volts. Is this too low to crank the engine?... even a little?
 

edpdx

Active member
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Location
Oregon
ralbelt, I read that already. In my OP I state that the batteries were checked- I didn't mean I checked them and they were dead. They each showed 12.55 volts. That seems like enough to crank the engine over, yet I am only getting 19.5 volts at the purple wire at the starter solenoid. I am looking in the forums now to find out if 19.5v is enough to crank the starter.
 

mistaken1

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Kansas City, KS
If each battery is 12.55V then the purple wire should have something close to 25.1V.

A bad connection (high resistance) can cause a voltage drop when current flows.

Bad batteries will do that (need to be load tested to know for sure).

I have seen others with a bad cable that links the batteries together. When a load is applied that link has a high resistance and the truck will not start. The terminals look good but the cable itself is corroded.
 
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