I'm new to Deuce world.

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StevenXR7

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Hi guys,
I bought a m135 1956 this summer, falled in love with the model, but i didnt know exaclty what was that truck before i purchase, That's unexpected **** of a truck !
It's come with the 302 engine and hydramatic tranny.

I found some of the manuals, ( TM-8024, TM9-1819, TM9-8025,TB9-2855 ) But, i cant find clear specification about the engine and tranny lube i should use.

I took out the radiator yesterday, im going to try to weld it today. The lower tank opened, probably due to the pressure valve overflow pipe was pinched.

Anyway, if you have any information about the lube chart it would be very appreciated.

I'm from Quebec province by the way, my english may be not sound very good ;)
 

NDT

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Congratulations on your purchase. The lube order “LO” calls for OE30 (OE means oil engine) for the engine, which translates to 10W30. Most of us use Dexron ATF in the transmission, which is 10 weight oil with additives needed by automatic transmissions.
 

cucvmule

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Welcome to the Forum!

Since you live in the North, and depending on if you plan to use the truck in the winter months will determine the weight of oil used. Just one thing, what ever oil you choose make sure that it has some kind of zinc content. Or if not an additive should be used for anti wear for start up.

Fuel will also make a difference as no lead is used any longer and that helped with valve protection. Sticking valves can create major headaches.
 

Nomad1

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You can't still get lead additive can you? I know on the old cars one would do a valve job and put in harden seats.
Welcome to the Forum!

Since you live in the North, and depending on if you plan to use the truck in the winter months will determine the weight of oil used. Just one thing, what ever oil you choose make sure that it has some kind of zinc content. Or if not an additive should be used for anti wear for start up.

Fuel will also make a difference as no lead is used any longer and that helped with valve protection. Sticking valves can create major headaches.
 

oboyjohn

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Salut StevenXR7 ! Bienveneu a Steel soldiers. The people here are a wealth of information. If you have any questions, ask away and someone will have an answer or two!
 

cucvmule

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You can't still get lead additive can you? I know on the old cars one would do a valve job and put in harden seats.
Hardened seats are only half the battle. Counter sinking valves can ruin a cylinder head in no time if run hard heating up the cast iron.

Second is the intake valves sticking. The lead years ago, late 70's into the eighties was eliminated. The lead acted like a lubricant for the seat and the valve stem. I have seen it up close what an engine does after sitting. The new gasoline does not for lack of a better term have a long shelf life. If you run the fuel out on shutdown the fuel will not collect on the valve stem and glue itself into valve guide. That is why you see additive buildup on the intake valves.

That is a good reason to use a lead substitute or Murphy's, Stable, or many others. But that only buys a little extra time. At best only a few pushrods get bent, and worse on close clearance valves and pistons, valves get bent. That is why you have to use the gas in its entirety, if it stinks bad replace it. And then there is carburetor problems....
 

StevenXR7

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Thank you !
So I need to add lead additive to the gaz.
Dextron ATF for the tranny, 10 measure of fluid for 1 measure of additive, but what are those additive ?

So far i've set up a temporarely fuel pump on the line, and im pumping from a 5 gallons tank,
I've fixed the lower tank of the radiator, which was blown
Pulled out carb to clean and create homemade new gasket
I've been able to road test, and roll the cable.. which was rolled all around the bumper.
Today ive pull out the gaz tank out of the hole, washed it. I Need to weld a few crack underneath.h
Is that breather on the picture is supose to be full like that ? Is it a filter ?
20191023_142535.jpg
I'll have to change every fluid, so a Lube chart would be appreciate, if there's one ;)
The tranny oil is milky, the engine oil is propably 45 year old.
there's no brake, no horn. So.. no air


I paid 1500$ for it. ;)
Ill take better picture of what i actually have and post it later.
 

NDT

Active member
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That is the chassis vent, all the gear cases and axles vent to that point, and yes, supposed to have filter material in there. I just looked at the LO and nothing real special about it, 85W90 gear oil in the axles and transfer, good EP grease in the zerks and wheel bearings.
 

m1010plowboy

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Bonjour et bienvenue. Rangez votre équipement et profitez des sons joyeux du G749 Green Giant.
Votre anglais est meilleur que mon français, bien que je commence à bien dire: "La plaque" C "doit aller à la toilette.

Are you hoping to insure and register the truck for the road? We need to see how that process is going to work now that
SAAQ brought some serious challenges to Quebec and combustion engine collectors. If you go through the insurance process I'd really
appreciate details and if you need help, I know someone that knows someone.

In TM 9-8024 you'll find a small chart with oil info for the engine and transmission on page 122.
The problem is it just says OE 30 or 10 wt.
It translates to straight 10 weight , non-detergent oil in winter, 30 wt. non detergent in summer.

We've got 3 trucks in Alberta set up with the old oil spec and it seems to work. Auto trans works for some and Hy-trans tractor oil has worked for others. Pick your flavour. The TM's
available here are a little tough to look through but are easier to read in a hot tub with a beverage.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/forumdisplay.php?118-Korean-War-to-VietNam-War-Vehicles-TMs
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?106483-More-M135-TM-s
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?119880-M135-amp-M211-TM-s
 

msgjd

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Until about 12 years ago I used to buy a product called "Real Lead" and it was also a 104+ octane boost. It had actual TCL(sp?) in it and it really did bring back the gray color inside the exhaust pipes. At the time it came in quart cans , 5 gallon pails, and 55gal drums . A bit pricey but was worth it in my 1940's-50's engines that were still in my contracting business. It was made in the USA. For the few old gas engines that remain with me, I strictly use non-ethanol 91 octane and a little diesel fuel or motor oil for the valves. Many lead-substitutes I've sampled smell like fuel-oil. I wouldn't be surprised if that's all it was. Steer away from ATF or other red-dyed oils in your fuel if Quebec has anything against "red fuel" on the highways as does the USA.
 

DUUANE

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Hey congrats on grabbing a great truck tabernac! Welcome to the fun and hello from the left coast.
Keep your ear to the ground for tires..tires tires tires! 1100-20 and 1200-20. The folks on here will have you covered for whatever tech you could need.

Cheers:beer:
 
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