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in frame engine overhaul

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I thought id share my thanksgiving experience, figured it was time to do my ldt engine overhaul. I purchased a complete set of 5 ton lds pistons a few months back in prep for this event. The overhaul was slow,and there were items that made the task interesting, but it wasnt as bad as i thought it would have been. some tasks required 2 or 3 guys,especially changing the single oil squirters to duals. the hardest squirter was number one directly above the oil pump.
We completed one hole at a time, removing the piston/ sleeve, removing the oil squirter, installing the squirter, removing the connecting rod from the old piston and installing the new piston to the rod, new bearings and slidding the whole unit back down the hole.
Once we completed the bottom end, we moved back up to the heads. once we checked the heads and cleaned them up, we began prepping to complete the headgasket. we purchased the newer style gasket in a complete set, the set was very complete and we were thankful we didnt need to use half of them.. lol We used the lds trouble shooting manual which was a great investment esp; with the torque specs and torque sequences. we coated the head nuts in oil and began the task of torquing 14 bolts per head in 3 sets ending in 140 ft lbs. everything went smooth lol
we finished up by setting valve lash and finally re installing all the parts back to the engine. it got pretty late, so we are finishing up filling fluids and prepping for start up..... wish us luck !!!!

I really didnt see anything that made the lds piston different than the ldt piston... questions??? ask and i will try to answer what i can.

thanks for looking
 

clinto

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Thanks for the writeup-few here on the site have done a complete multi rebuild.

1. Having now done an in-frame rebuild, would you do it this way again, or just go ahead and remove the engine and work on it on a stand or on the floor?

2. How did you reinstall the crank after having put bearings in?

3. Why 140 ft. lbs.? I thought the new style gaskets were 158.

4. What failed on the old engine?
 

patracy

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I've done the same thing. I'll do an inframe again and again. I think I only torqued my 1pc HG's to 141ft-lbs as well. I did basically the same thing, but I kept the same bearings.
 

dpsmith

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Where did you get your parts? I am like Clinto, how did you get the crank back in after the new bearing were installed? Did you get the heads surfaced or checked out?
 

patracy

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If the crank is in good shape and you're going to replace the bearings, you can slide the bearing halves in behind the crank into the journal carefully. I've done in in the past in a SBC engine. Just do it one cap at a time. Using parts cleaner to remove any oil from the journal area for a clean install. Just a dab of assembly lube to the bearing surface to help it slide easily over the crank. Install it with the tabbed side of the bearing going in last.
 

gringeltaube

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........how did you get the crank back in after the new bearing were installed? ........
Guess the OP was referring to the connecting rod bearings only....? You don't have to lower or remove the crank for that....... :???:

G.
 

clinto

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Guess the OP was referring to the connecting rod bearings only....? You don't have to lower or remove the crank for that....... :???:

G.
I assumed dakotafear removed the crank and had it mic'd and at a minimum polished since he called this a "rebuild" and not a "refresh", etc.

To me, rebuild means you did it all.

I wouldn't tear into an engine that has dry bearings for 8-15 seconds on every single startup and not service the main and rod bearings.

I have done the bearing trick like patracy described above on multiple engines, so I am familiar with that.
 

73m819

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I assumed dakotafear removed the crank and had it mic'd and at a minimum polished since he called this a "rebuild" and not a "refresh", etc.

To me, rebuild means you did it all.

I wouldn't tear into an engine that has dry bearings for 8-15 seconds on every single startup and not service the main and rod bearings.

I have done the bearing trick like patracy described above on multiple engines, so I am familiar with that.
Could have PLASTIGED it (spell check said that is right) being that the lower bearing half takes the thust load

In the truck world, this kind of rebuild (in frame) is normal, just roll in the bearings if needed after a plastige check and a journal inspection, I have seen inframe turn into out of frame real quick when journal inspection turns bad.
 
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65
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Danville pa
Ok guys i see the argument already... lol It was a "refresh" if you will. I did not remove the crank brgs, as we did a vissual check on them, while replacing just the rod brgs. all the bearings looked very clean and like new I installed the rod brgs just because we got them and thought it was worth it since it was apart. we had the dead checked and cleaned for the mating to the block but did not do a valve job sice the valves and pistons also looked very good at this time. I called memphis equip about head torques, and got the answer to stay with 130ft lbs for the new style AND they dont need to be re-torqued... so we went w/ 140ft lbs and might consider re torque after 200 mi. parts came from a few different places, mostly memphis... but this was in the works for some time now.
For all the pictures.... I will have to figure out how to post some.. lol honestly, it was the least thought on the mind.... I just wanted to do things by the book and be very careful and clean. although i wish i would have got some snap shots of the oil squirters both single and the dual i installed..
I am now in the process of trying to locate a set of single hole injectors and a lds 1a turbo w/ wastegate. hope to see if these items will add performance to the engine and maybe debunk the magical myth af the lds vs ldt.

thanks for reading
 
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Danville pa
I am planning on firing the old girl up here tue evening after work, I have a few loose ends to tie up, including filling all the fluids and filter change. I'm on a limited time frame thru the week. I'm nervous like a long tail cat in a room full of rocking chairs.... so im not rushing to start her up just yet. The question of why this was done was due to a oily seepage coming from the left front head, and a miss; esp when its cold. I noticed more blowby comming from the road draft tube and secretly I wanted to do the overhaul before doing toys for tots.
I'm no expert on engine building, but this was an eye opener, and another nitch in owning green iron. I will post on the start up and life of the engine whin i get her back to life... thanks for the replys... keep them comming !!
 
65
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Danville pa
Well to kinda wrap things up, We got to the garage and got the fluids in the old girl and said a quick prayer... I jumped in, hit the start button..... and Nothing !!! aua we did some research and found the starter solenoid lug was broke. Figure someone must have stepped on it while working on the heads. Well we are very disappointed and now in a mad rush to locate a solenoid ! As soon as we get one, I will give my final after action report on the turkey day engine refresh lol !
If I had to pick, I would do a refresh again and again over installing another engine.... You just have to justify whats best for you, I like to know what i have since we use the truck as an everyday driver. If you knew what you had as far as a donor engine, then install that bad boy ! I did both events and both was a job that took time and some extra help....
 
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