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Here is my first stab at posting pictures and a tip on the site.
I just finished replacing all the steel and rubber brake lines, M/C, Air Pack, wheel cylinders, wheel seals and re-packed the bearings. Following the extensive, " how to replace the seals" thread, and the potential for catastrophic failure by not redoing the brake components, I decided to give it a go.
I read several comments about installing the wheel seals and was a bit shy about pounding on them with a brass drift pin to seat them.
I made a trip to the helpful hardware place and bought some 3" schedule 40 PVC pipe about 2 feet long, a 3" slip x slip coupling, a 3" slip x female adapter and a 3" PVC pipe plug. The assembled installer is pictured below.
I did not glue anything together.
The coupling is exactly the same size as the seal and when you slip the seal over the axle tube, followed by the installer, all you have to do is tap the plug in with a BFH and seat the seal. Worked like a charm and only cost about $6 bucks.
I just finished replacing all the steel and rubber brake lines, M/C, Air Pack, wheel cylinders, wheel seals and re-packed the bearings. Following the extensive, " how to replace the seals" thread, and the potential for catastrophic failure by not redoing the brake components, I decided to give it a go.
I read several comments about installing the wheel seals and was a bit shy about pounding on them with a brass drift pin to seat them.
I made a trip to the helpful hardware place and bought some 3" schedule 40 PVC pipe about 2 feet long, a 3" slip x slip coupling, a 3" slip x female adapter and a 3" PVC pipe plug. The assembled installer is pictured below.
I did not glue anything together.
The coupling is exactly the same size as the seal and when you slip the seal over the axle tube, followed by the installer, all you have to do is tap the plug in with a BFH and seat the seal. Worked like a charm and only cost about $6 bucks.
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