Injection Pump Reinstall Problem on 6.5 Turbo

[GMVguy]

Installing a new (rebuilt) Stanadyne Injection Pump and running into a problem so I stopped.

After lining it up with the timing mark I made before removal, as well as ensuring the pin is in the slot inside the motor, I snugged up the nuts on the front of the IP.

Then I installed the first bolt in the front (see pic below). I snugged it up finger tight and went to rotate the motor to access the next bolt hole using the nut on the alternator, as I did for removal. The motor wouldn’t budge. During removal it rotated pretty easily, so I didn’t want to force it and went to inspecting things.

In the picture below, it seems the driveshaft from the front of the IP is not exactly lined up with the black part. How do you know if the IP driveshaft is lined up? And would that cause the engine to not manually turn over?

 

[Gastrap]

Bolt looks dirty, Is that possibly a bolt from and external location? maybe too long and binding? I think there are usually captive washers on the gear bolts, not flange heads. Those thrust areas on the cover aren't always dead center.

 

[NDT]

Were you able to rotate the IP shaft prior to installation?

 

[GMVguy]

Bolt looks dirty, Is that possibly a bolt from and external location? maybe too long and binding? I think there are usually captive washers on the gear bolts, not flange heads. Those thrust areas on the cover aren't always dead center.

No, that’s one of the three original bolts. Seems to seat fully and not be causing any binding. I would try to turn the motor without the bold, but don’t want to mess up the timing.

Thanks for the tip on the area the plunger hits not always being dead center. That’s what was concerning me, as if it should line up and fit into the cover somehow.

Not sure what else could be binding the motor from turning to the next bolt.

 

[GMVguy]

Were you able to rotate the IP shaft prior to installation?

Yes, the IP shaft spins freely when tested, and plunges in and out with the spring no problem.

 

[NDT]

This is kinda confusing, the IP can really only go in one way, the goof on this install is to drop a screw down into the guts.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

STOP
if you tighten these bolts without being completely seated and flush on the timing gear, you will break the pump shaft, its a milled surface and it’s tight, remove all bolts, push on the timing gear with your fingers and shake the pump while pushing the pump, the two surfaces will be flush When done correctly.

 

[GMVguy]

@Retiredwarhorses saves the day again. Thanks all!

 

[GMVguy]

Finally got the Injection Pump reinstalled and cranked the motor. I noticed the engine valley puddle up and sure enough there's a drip coming from the IP. This thing was just rebuilt. Know what could be causing the leak?

 

[DREDnot]

Id get in there with a mirror to make sure where it actually coming from. Maybe just a loose injector pipe.

Also...who did the rebuild?

 

[GMVguy]

It’s not coming from the front, and not coming from the fuel lines. Somewhere in the middle…

 

[DREDnot]

Looking at the possible pitting that was in that lower valve housing I would be suspect of its sealing abilities. Did you send yours out for rebuild or did you buy a rebuilt unit? Those valve housings see some horrific corrosion problems even if the rest of the IP is pristine.

Who did the work on the IP? There are reputable rebuilders and others, not so much .

 

[GMVguy]

Looking at the possible pitting that was in that lower valve housing I would be suspect of its sealing abilities. Did you send yours out for rebuild or did you buy a rebuilt unit? Those valve housings see some horrific corrosion problems even if the rest of the IP is pristine.

Who did the work on the IP? There are reputable rebuilders and others, not so much .

It was Pensacola Diesel. They replaced the one I sent in with this rebuilt unit because mine was “beyond repair”.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

It was Pensacola Diesel. They replaced the one I sent in with this rebuilt unit because mine was “beyond repair”.

This is just another example of why I only use pumps from HPG or MAC motors, either rebuilt or new, the amount of time spent removing this pump again negates any savings,I learned this lesson many years ago. As far as Pensacola diesel goes, I got nothing good to say about them either as a pump rebuilder, DCP out of Tennessee is another waste of money.
Get a mirror and a flashlight, see if one of your lower lines is still a bit loose…you will need a 5/8 crows foot on an extension

 

[GMVguy]

This is just another example of why I only use pumps from HPG or MAC motors, either rebuilt or new, the amount of time spent removing this pump again negates any savings,I learned this lesson many years ago. As far as Pensacola diesel goes, I got nothing good to say about them either as a pump rebuilder, DCP out of Tennessee is another waste of money.
Get a mirror and a flashlight, see if one of your lower lines is still a bit loose…you will need a 5/8 crows foot on an extension

Bone dry under the fuel line fittings, and on the entire rear section of pump, as well as the front section. The drip is coming from the center, under the large hex on the side of the pump. I believe there are a couple Allen-head screws underneath. It seems to be coming from one of them, but I doubt they’re accessible while installed.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Bone dry under the fuel line fittings, and on the entire rear section of pump, as well as the front section. The drip is coming from the center, under the large hex on the side of the pump. I believe there are a couple Allen-head screws underneath. It seems to be coming from one of them, but I doubt they’re accessible while installed.

I believe that big Allen head bolt has an o-ring on it…I’d have to take one apart here in the shop to see.
Does the truck run good?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I believe that big Allen head bolt has an o-ring on it…I’d have to take one apart here in the shop to see.
Does the truck run good?

 

[GMVguy]

I believe that big Allen head bolt has an o-ring on it…I’d have to take one apart here in the shop to see.
Does the truck run good?

Not sure yet. I was just priming the IP and flushing the lines. As soon as I saw how big the leak was I stopped to assess the situation before proceeding. Would like to repair the leak before firing the injectors.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Not sure yet. I was just priming the IP and flushing the lines. As soon as I saw how big the leak was I stopped to assess the situation before proceeding. Would like to repair the leak before firing the injectors.

Fire it up, you need to know if it runs right, or you will be replacing the pump for a 3rd time…

 

[TOBASH]

When facing this issue, I went with a new pump as per RWH advice. Rebuilt only seems cheaper till there are issues.

I feel your pain. We all do.