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Injector Line leak.
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dmc-4359
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Likely just some trash on the mating surfaces of the injector and line. A common response to these manner of compression fitting is to over tighten and crack the mating surface of the tubing. 22 ft/lbs is just at 'wrench tight' so if you have gone much over that and are still leaking, you may have caused some real issues.
That detail aside, how and where exactly is the leak occurring? Squirting back up past the injector line from between the nut and tube, seeping? Have you tried completely removing the line and moving it just enough to get it past the seat on the injector to confirm that there is no trash in the way on either end?
That detail aside, how and where exactly is the leak occurring? Squirting back up past the injector line from between the nut and tube, seeping? Have you tried completely removing the line and moving it just enough to get it past the seat on the injector to confirm that there is no trash in the way on either end?
dmc-4359
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With the engine off, pull the line and 'very' carefully slip it free of the seat on the injector. This is so you don't fatigue the line from bending, they don't take well to that but they aren't entirely fragile either. Slide the nut out of the way and wipe the end of the line clean. A small mirror is handy for getting a good look at the end of the line without too much gymnastics involved.
Similarly, you'll want to check out the seating surface on the end of the injector after cleaning it well enough to see the metal.
On the plus side, a complete set of brand new injectors that are good enough to get you back on the road will only set you back around $200-$250. As I recall, I paid $220 shipped for a set of brand new injectors from a company in Ohio. I did this as a matter of course shortly after I bought my m1009 and they have lasted more than a year with much of that time spent running WMO. I saw a vendor on ebay selling individual lines for nearly sixty dollars each, but I'm sure you could do better at a junkyard or other venue.
Either way, you won't know what you need to to do until you get a good look at your problem first. Might be that you just have some gunk in the way or something.
Similarly, you'll want to check out the seating surface on the end of the injector after cleaning it well enough to see the metal.
On the plus side, a complete set of brand new injectors that are good enough to get you back on the road will only set you back around $200-$250. As I recall, I paid $220 shipped for a set of brand new injectors from a company in Ohio. I did this as a matter of course shortly after I bought my m1009 and they have lasted more than a year with much of that time spent running WMO. I saw a vendor on ebay selling individual lines for nearly sixty dollars each, but I'm sure you could do better at a junkyard or other venue.
Either way, you won't know what you need to to do until you get a good look at your problem first. Might be that you just have some gunk in the way or something.
Barrman
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I just had to do the same thing to one of mine. Leaking down around the injector, took it apart, cleaned and still leaked. Second time same result. Third time it leaked between the line and the nut. Fourth time did it. I hope since I am at work and need to drive it home tonight.
Lots of trash in there. More than thought possible.
Lots of trash in there. More than thought possible.
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As a side comment,...... sometimes the line itself will crack and leak. I have welded them to get by. But weld the crack, don't braze it. Brass will fatigue and the crack will just migrate through the brass. Once brass is on there, its not possible to weld it.