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Injector pump Remove and replace. Read TM, but still confused.

Hal O'Peridol

Member
121
4
18
Location
Blaine, WA
My IP is bad, need to send it off to be rebuilt. So I've been reading the TM, but I am confused on the actual sequence of steps.

So.

1 Remove intake manifold, unbolt pump gear

2 disconnect fuel lines at injectors

3 disconnect lines from pump.

????????

Help please.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
GA Mountains
Couple of things here. First, your location listed as n/a violates the rules. You are required to at least, list your state. Second is you have 3 statements, a row of question marks and a plea for help. Help with what? You will need to ask a question to get an answer.
 

AceHigh

Well-known member
2,175
29
48
Location
Princeton WV Lake City FL
When I did mine I just removed the lines from the injectors only, took it off as an "octopus". I think it made switching lines and all easier on the bench. This was of course after removing the intake and the 3 pump bolts. Watch those little bolts- I think they may be able to go down the oil fill.

Hope it goes well for you!
 

GPrez

Member
208
0
16
Location
Mt. Airy, MD
I may miss a few minor items that need to be removed, but from what I recall from swapping mine was.

1. Air Cleaner
2. Intake manifold
3. Injector lines. I removed mine completely not just at the injectors. I think it made removing the pump bolts easier. When you reinstall them go from bottom up and tighten them as you go. The lower ones are difficult to tighten at the injector pump once everything is installed. Next time I do one I may try AceHigh's method above though.
4. Remove the 3-bolts behind the oil fill tube. This requires rotating the engine to get to each one. I used a breaker bar with the correct size socket and turned the engine using the crank bolt from underneath.
5. Remove the bolts on the manifold side and remove the pump.

I thought the TM had pretty good directions for replacing the IP. Keep it handy and you'll be fine.
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
OKC, OK
Label your lines. They all look alike after sitting on the bench for a few weeks.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
486
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I just recently pulled my IP. I had really good luck labeling all my lines with a marker and keeping them paired up with the retaining clips. Then I removed the lines from the injectors and pulled it out with the IP. Swapping the lines from the old to new IP, they lined right up because I kept them paired together. Swapped over no problem as an assembly. I would not want to tighten them up with the IP in the valley of the engine. I did run my engine up without an intake manifold on it to triple check for leaks just incase.

Not a hard job to do my any means, just takes time and patience. I also did valve cover gaskets just for good measure and upgraded my fuel filtration to keep the new IP in good condition.
 

Hal O'Peridol

Member
121
4
18
Location
Blaine, WA
Couple of things here. First, your location listed as n/a violates the rules. You are required to at least, list your state. Second is you have 3 statements, a row of question marks and a plea for help. Help with what? You will need to ask a question to get an answer.
Fixed the location.

The other guys seemed to know what I was asking. Thanks.
 

Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,818
952
113
Location
Paris KY
Copy of Socket with magnet.jpg
I second the caution comment from AceHigh regarding those internal bolts possibly falling down in the engine. When I removed my internal bolts, I used a special socket magnet that held them tight while extracting them out through the oil tube hole.
 
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