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Injectors! Testing, home made pop tester, results.

merlot566jka

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ID or TX or OK
Well guys I've been busy as **** lately so I haven't been on here much. Last weekend I started doing the head gaskets on my deuce. Since I had it all apart I took the injectors to the only outfit in town that can test them. They said free to test, $25 to rebuild... So I said sure. Well the call me back the next day and said they all failed and they needed $598 to rebuild all 6. I was a bit stunned and frankly pissed. I asked why they failed, and they said cause they all leak, don't atomize and half of them are clogged. They needed $75 for each nozzle, plus the discounted rebuild cost cause "he used to do these in the army in the 70s"
I said no way. I can get new injectors for less than that, and the truck was running fine before, just leaking oil. I find it hard to believe that all 6 were bad and 3 were clogged.
So I did some searching. Found a great thread where someone else had the exact same injectors I had. They listed the nozzle they use and a source where they were $1 each. I took this info to the injector shop and showed the guy. I asked him if he was familiar with how these injectors work, their rated pop pressure and if he knew what he was doing. He was very put off by my demeanor. (I wasn't happy) he said these injectors don't spray streams, and they are supposed to pop at 2700psi. I showed him the info saying they need to pop at 3500-3750, and the nozzles were $1.00. He said "$60 for the test and here are your injectors"... what ever.

So I go home and get an old bottle jack I found in the back of a pickup at a salvage yard. It was a 70s model jack that had worked great since I found it.
I tore it apart, welded up the bypass holes, removed this piston and had some hoses made. I welded a cast iron plumbing reducer and adds some fittings to connect my hose and gauge. I got the gauge from napa, 5000psi with 1000psi major and 100psi minor marks. I couldn't find anyone who knew what a ferrule was for connecting the injector. So I used a regular 3/8 fitting that threaded into the injector and a rubber o-ring inside the fitting to make the seal. Worked like a champ. My welding leaked everywhere. After a bit of welding disasters, I set it all up again, and started to pump it up. I got to 1100 psi and my gauge got stuck. I released pressure and remove the gauge. Still stuck at 1100psi. Well whatever that was my new zero. I reconnect everything and give it all another go. I get to 2700psi and the injector popped off. I was using 15w-40 for the test. It was sure enough two wimpy looking streams about 15* apart and both at an angle from center. Not satisfied with the oil, I switched to a mix of diesel and gas I had laying around. The bottle jack did not like this. I got to about 3100psi and the injector popped and it took a few cycles to get the oil out. Once it was on the thinner fuel, I got some atomization. But still not as dramatic as I wanted it to be. I thought 3100psi was going to be a whole lot more than what it was. I jacked with the set screw and eventually set it too high... My rig wouldn't pop it off. Then something inside the jack gave and I couldn't get above 3000psi again.

So now I am about to go up to HF and get a portable hydraulic kit and give that a go.
I've ordered 4 new nozzles, but so far, I don't think I need them. I don't see anything wrong with mine. Or maybe I don't know what I am looking for?

I will get some pics and videos up soon.

What are your thoughts?

These are the "made in Italy" injectors, with a stamped on date of '88 and the last two characters of the part number are "B2". The set screw inside is an Allen key. The injectors are two hole. An the found pop pressure is 3500-3750psi.
I have been and usually run the truck on used motor oil, diesel, gas, gear oil, kerosene, brake fluid, fryer grease and basically anything else I get my hands on. It's all filtered down to 10micron.
 

59apache

Chipmaker
1,299
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Location
Bavaria / Germany
good idea, but a ton of work. if i took diesel injector tester in the search from ebay, i get many options.
 
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Diecorpse

New member
193
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0
Location
Grand Island, Nebraska
Can you see the holes in the injectors? I can't see any of the holes on any of mine, not sure of the exact type of injector I have. Also I have been redoing my heads and gaskets. Any tips as far as reassembling anything a certain way? This on my Deuce with the Hercules mf.
 

merlot566jka

Member
360
0
16
Location
ID or TX or OK
I could see both holes on each injector. They are about the size of a wire brush bristle. The one on the very tip of the injector is larger than the one that faces at an angle, but both are tiny. Try using a high power flashlight.

As far as re-assembly... I have the heads torqued on now, but haven't had the time to get everything else back on. Hoping this weekend I'll have it done.

Fwiw I made my own torque tool for those hard to get to head nuts...
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374123102.469547.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1374123129.492594.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1374123179.432714.jpg

Worked well enough that my girlfriend was able to use it (up to about 110ftlbs anyway)
 

Diecorpse

New member
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Location
Grand Island, Nebraska
I'll try using a flashlight. Thanks. I read on other threads, members having issues putting exhaust and intake manifolds back on. I'm looking forward to driving my truck again, just not all the reassembly!! Lol. You using 1/2 drive torque wrench? Wasn't sure if the 1/2 would be big enough for that amount of torque. Mine only peaks at 150 ft lbs.
 

merlot566jka

Member
360
0
16
Location
ID or TX or OK
Yeah, 1/2 drive. Mine says 150 is the top, but the dial still will spin up another 10 ft lbs. It worked great at 157. Plus it's a $10 torque wrench, 150 could be 140, or even 190. I wasn't too concerned.
 

uscgmatt

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
634
13
18
Location
Cordova, Alaska
I have to agree with Steelandcanvas. With the compression these engines run I would not want the torque to be off. And from what I've always been told you don't want to use edges of the wrench range. I would beg, borrow, or buy a good torque wrench. It beats redoing the gaskets. On the other hand cool tester.
 
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m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,021
221
63
Location
eldersburg maryland
And I have to agree with Matt, torque values are not very accurate at the end of either side of the scale. Get a good torque wrench and do it right or do it over.
you should be VERY concerned about torque, unless you don't care about doing it over in a couple of weeks. also you should learn how to use an injector tester (unless you do know) the hand pump you are using should be used with vigor, (and with the proper fuel) and the injector being tested should squeal. even when looking for pop off pressure, you cannot just do it slowly, it just won't show real life results. my experience has been that usually 3 out of 6 injectors don't have a real nice mist, but it only seems to affect starting and idling mostly.
 

merlot566jka

Member
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16
Location
ID or TX or OK
Woah guys! It's not like I just slapped it all together! I went through all the stages, accurately torquing on each stage. I was making a general statement. The torque wrench I use is not a cheap harbor freight one, but I have never had it calibrated in the year I've had it. There's no way to know for sure if 150 is actually 150... I've done about 7 engine builds with it and so far nothing has gone wrong. I've build about 30 engines total without failure.

In the navy, the torque wrenches were calibrated every year or every time they were dropped. And even then we didn't trust them. That's why I buy a new one every year. And so far, that's worked out just fine.

As far as going over the scale... Yeah I know better.

To prove my confidence, I will video any torque wrench you send me, torquing my head bolts. I will set all of them the same and show that they all click at different points. I did this when I was the tool control PO in the navy. I argued so much about the calibration program that I went out to prove to them that no mater what you do, each wrench is going to be different. Each user will be different. So using markers on the nut/bolt and the surface, I proved that every one of them read at a different point. They're argument back "we haven't had any failures related to torquing. You are wasting your breath!"

So now, I kind of accept that, yeah, I'm torquing at 157ft lbs... On this wrench. And I don't take it too serious.



Tom, I bought the gaskets from you (guy from Oklahoma, moved due to tornados)

Anyway, the pumping slow was to get as long of a spray as possible and was to show the spray patterns. Those videos were the old nozzles. I got all new nozzles and put them in today. The new ones do not squeal at all. They do look wonderful though. I'll post the videos in a few.
 

w3azel

Member
229
0
16
Location
Waipahu/HI
Who did you get the new injector tips from and are they the two nozzle ones or custom. I'm wanting to get some custom ones made for an extra set of injectors I just bought. Wondering if you had a good source that could do that. Id also like to say great job on the pop tester. $26 is hard to beat and sure its not perfect but its also for personal use and didn't cost more then a new set of injectors.
 

merlot566jka

Member
360
0
16
Location
ID or TX or OK
The hose was made for 5500psi. I'm sure it does swell some. But I think some variance is tolerated.

I got those nozzles on the big auction site. They are the stock 2 hole. I imagine if you took some old nozzles to a machine shop with a cnc, they could probably cut new ones with a blank face so you can get a different amount of spray holes. But that would defeat the whole multifuel design... If you want diesel injectors, look at the d4800 tractor engines.
 
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