• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Insane home Water/meth injection...

862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
So you agree to just get the shurflo...... I think that's what I'm going to get the more I think about it. That's what jwaller told me to use and he uses similar pump. The thing I like about the on demand shurflo pump is that could be wired on its own circuit and set to 100 psi. You could have a gauge plumbed in that line to show pressure and it would cycle to keep rhe pressure at 100 psi all the time. Assuming there is no leaks your system would always be ready to go until the valves are triggered. A light could be wired into the system so you know when the pump is running and two more lights for each stage of valves.

As far as nozzles Idk yet the other guy in this thread said the 5 gph didn't seem to do much. I figure on getting the 5 and 10 to start. This won't be happening for me for awhile. My main goal right now is the extended cab then bobbing the truck. If I have the funds I might get better nozzles from the site I posted above. They have lots of sizes.
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
Ya the sureflo will probably work. I haven't started this project either. Bout to strip my truck down for paint and body work in a month or so. I may or may not get to this one anytime soon.
 
862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
Yeah if you saw my build thread I'm there lol as far as I'm going to get anyway..... i will do everything possible not to pull the cab. I'll be painting the engine compartment tomorrow morning.
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
I pretty much have the same plan you do on the paint. Everything but the cab and drive train will be removed.

I may map out where I want to install a water tank and the pump while I'm in the process. I dunno. Too many ideas floating around in my head.
 
862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
If i could figure out a good way to seal a steel tank to prevent corrosion i would weld compartment into the m105 bed the width and depth of the wheel wells cause I'm going to put benches in that spot and tool boxes probably could store 20 to 30 gallons of water maybe even more. If that won't work I'm going to mount a tank under the truck in between the frame rails. There is are numerous 10 gallon poly tanks on our favorite auction site for like $36 bucks free shipping.
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
I was thinking of a stainless or aluminum fuel cell. Maybe mounting it where the pioneer rack used to be (I'm not bobbing mine). Between the frame rails is a good place I was thinking of also.

I forgot where I saw it but there was a sealant that you could dump in a tank and roll the tank around and it was supposed to coat everything. Kinda like tank kreme for motorcycle gas tanks but it was way cheaper.
 

Heath_h49008

New member
1,557
101
0
Location
Kalamazoo/Mich
If it won't be exposed to pressure, then you have a lot of options. You need to make sure the tank can be removed or completely drained/RV antifreeze the system for cold weather because methanol causes problems with multifuels. (It lifts the heads)

Most of us do some camping, so a potable water source would come in handy as well. Keep it in mind when you design your water tanks. PVC or potable polyethylene suddenly become viable, and even desirable.
 

PyroJoe

Member
86
13
8
Location
David City, NE
Time to breathe some life into this old thread. After reading all 20 pages spread over the course of 2+ years, I'm surprised it isn't complete yet. The reason I was searching the meth injection for the M35A2's was because I want to clean up my exhaust. It belches way too much black smoke out. I'm currently getting 13mpg on highway. If I were to convert that unburnt diesel into power, I could be seeing 15mpg. I might search if anyone's fabbed an aftermarket intake manifold yet to make an IC feasible. The fact this thing gets better mileage than 90's 3/4 ton trucks is already amazing, I just wish it was a little better, then I'd DD it. (Note I'm not interested in hacking the truck up, I'm not obsessed with deuce and a half fuel economy, rather, I'm obsessed with trying to perfect things and bring them to their full potential. I see a lot of untapped potential in these motors. I should also note I have an LTD-465).
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,388
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Time to breathe some life into this old thread. After reading all 20 pages spread over the course of 2+ years, I'm surprised it isn't complete yet. The reason I was searching the meth injection for the M35A2's was because I want to clean up my exhaust. It belches way too much black smoke out. I'm currently getting 13mpg on highway. If I were to convert that unburnt diesel into power, I could be seeing 15mpg. I might search if anyone's fabbed an aftermarket intake manifold yet to make an IC feasible. The fact this thing gets better mileage than 90's 3/4 ton trucks is already amazing, I just wish it was a little better, then I'd DD it. (Note I'm not interested in hacking the truck up, I'm not obsessed with deuce and a half fuel economy, rather, I'm obsessed with trying to perfect things and bring them to their full potential. I see a lot of untapped potential in these motors. I should also note I have an LTD-465).
Your already getting 13mph and you want to get more ? I wished I got 13mph.
 

Loco_Hosa

Member
462
4
18
Location
Ethel, Wa
Ive been gone from this forum for quite a while, but I have not forgotten this thread.

Im excited to see affordable high psi pumps showing up, that seems like a cleaner nicer solution, and still amazingly affordable! For those that are fabricating a water injection system for a high power Cummins (Cough Cough, me!) is there a 100 psi 12 volt solution for under $100? I have not found one. If not, I will likely get the setup shown earlier in the thread for $169.

Lastly, a bit of food for thought to share with all yall that I gleaned while researching a Nitrous kit for my old Jeep, link :here: The basic idea is to put the jet right after the solenoid, instead of into the manifold with a line between the solenoid and the injector/jet. The premise to wanting to do it this way is that you will have a more even atomization, because your fuel/nitrous/water/meth is not able to turn into a vapor between the solenoid and the injector/jet. In the world of Nitrous oxide precision and predictability is key, and I understand that it is less important in our applications, but it was worth sharing. :)

Im sure some one will mention concern that it will atomize out of the injector, then reform into larger droplets and drip into the intake manifold, I remind you that it will almost instantly turn to steam, and it will be moving at a high pace, due to the speed at which the engine sucks air through the intake.

In any case, I doubt it matters much in this, but wanted to share.
 

brianp454

Member
572
11
18
Location
Portland, OR
Hmmm, I get about 8.5 MPG on the freeway in my truck. Checked one of the other trucks in the convoy at the same time with same method and got the same. Any ideas on getting to 13 MPG? Is this all downhill or with massive tail wind?

Your already getting 13mph and you want to get more ? I wished I got 13mph.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks