Installed Turbo, 12v conversion Serp belt lots more

[acesneights1]

This is gonna take me a few days to post up...
So It's been awhile and I got a bug up my ass to finaly do the turbo swap. The radiator is shot and the bottom corner is rotted so if I gotta pull the rad...Might as well go all the way. I got the 6.5 TD from my 93 that went kaplooey. Biggest problem I face is mixing and matching heads. I was gonna just reuse the 6.2 heads and bend the inj lines a little with short body inj. I stripped the motor down to do the headgaskets first. Silly not to do them if I got the IP off and the manifolds and the coolant drained. So I get the drivers side head off. I clean it up and get my ARP studs all ready(the only way to go) The back stud by the brake booster won't go in the hole. It' hits the firewall. So I get the bright idea to whack the firewall with a 5lb. I only need like an 1/8 inch. well...I miss and hit the f'in valve. Blew the keepers right off and cracked the valve guide...
So I have one spare 6.5 head in my container from another motor that went kaboom. Guy in town here is selling a 6.5 head for 100$. I figure I'll use the precups from the 6.2 because the spare 6.5 head I have is square precups and the head I bought has diamond ones. The 6.2 have 3 squares.
well the 6.2 ones won't fit in the spare head I had. The dont sit flush. I'm like WTF ??
So I pull the heads off the motor from my 93(1 of those heads is bad but I don't know which one)That has round precups. I cant friggin win. 4 different heads 4 different precups. So I pop the round precup out and try it in the spare head I have. Still wont sit flush. I finally came to the conclusion that that head must have been decked. So I am going to use the head I bought and took a crap shot on which head I think was good on the other motor. One had corrosion around one of the valve and in the cyl so me thinks that was the bad one.
I got tendonitis and carpel so I can only type a little a night.

 

[acesneights1]

The one 6.5 head I have that I know is good has square precups and I don't have any extra ones. I tried swapping in different cups but they sit too high in hte head which leads me to believe the head was milled.

Mkakes me wonder how many people have just swapped a head without knowing to make sure the precups are the same and what if any consequences there were ??


basically you should be able to swap precups around without re-machining right ? I think that one head must have been machined because I was able to interchange with the other heads no issue. Fighting the rain today but hope to have pass(turbo) side bolted up. I am also converting the truck to serp belt and from 24v to 12v. There does not seem to be anyway to keep the 24v easily with serp belt and the only real advantage is it cranks over better in the cold but the caveat is You lose one battery as a buffer on the 12v side of the truck so I plow and I winch. Need that extra batt. Moving the second battery over to the drivers side may be a challenge to. Even if I use a civilian batt tray The coolant bottle is there as well as some sort of bleeder line for the oil cooler. I won't even get into the exhaust issues yet....
I have a powerline 250amp alt from the Burb I am hoping to use but if not I need a pinout of the (I think) cs130 alt ??(It came off a 94 6.5D). Nice thing is both alts produce a tach signal which hopefully I can use with my Dakota tach signal converter.

 

[acesneights1]

well, those who know me know why I specifically requested a suicide smiley...
I get the head that I bought all cleaned up and just finished torquing the last head stud when I notice one of the valves is kinda beat up where the rocker rides. Why me ??
Hard to get a good pic but think it's ok ? Was talking to a fellow 6.5'er. Probably gonna run a file over it and hope for the best. The valve moves up and down freely and feels like it has the same tension as the others. Not sure what happended to it. Ended up using the round precups in both heads salvaged from the kaplooey motor.
It is the valve to the left of the #9 in the casting.

 

[acesneights1]

So Both heads are on...fingers crossed. Lots to do tomorrow. What a cock getting the pass ex manifold on was. Advice to future mechanics...pull the motor mount and jack the motor . I had to cu the stud part off the head of the bolts and then put them in the manifold firts before I put it in place. Had to use small zip ties to keep the bolts from falling out while doing that.....What a PIA. Hopefully things will go better tomorrow. I also swapped the water pump to a 2000 WP and swapped the IP to a 2831-4911. I put a set of SSD Marine High pops in. I had them and they were not old. I had Tim at Accurate test them. They all passed. Moving along. Swapped the starter to a 12V GR so I got alot of rewiring to do tomorrow. First glace looks like the factory crossover with work but ONLY because I have a 4 inch lift. Not sure about stock height but looks like it wold hit the front DS.

 

[acesneights1]

Hit another snag. The drivers side Ex manifold will not work. It hits the oil cooler lines and the frame so I will have to use the 6.2 one and get fancy with the crossover fab. This is proving to be challenging. Got the wiring changed over to 12v. Going in the morning to get the new oil feed line made up for the turbo. Gonna tap off the OPS.
So far the serp belt setup looks good. Power steering pump is close to the frame but just enough clearance.

 

[acesneights1]

It's Alive !!!!!!
It's a bit smokey. Timing is off there is no exhaust , It was cold, still has air in the lines etc but it started off 1 battery and I only ran it for a min but no bubbles in the rad which makes me very happy.
My CUCV Turbo Build - YouTube

 

[acesneights1]

t sounds badd ass. Can really hear the whistle. More so than a GMT400 truck which was kinda weird but it sounds awesome. I can't wait to drive it.

 

[acesneights1]

Here's the crossover I made out of a 6.5 one. it's "Man"dle bent...Man with xe handle..
I had to weld a 6.2 flange on the drivers side. It actually fits pretty good. I also had to shorten the pass side of it and rebend it a little.

 

[acesneights1]

I ran a lie up same size as the turbo oil line to a manifold I made which has T's off it for the idiot light and future Autometer gauge. I kept the idiot light because sometimes I'm an idiot...

 

[acesneights1]

Here's the top view. Before the comments go nuts, I am not done by a long shot. I have alot of wiring to clean up, and I am not using that air filter. it's a temp. I have a K47 that is going on but eventually it will get a Snorkel.

 

[acesneights1]

So basically swapping a 6.5 turbo setup to a 6.2 is pretty straight forward. As far as the injs hitting the turbo manifold I couldn't say as I ended up using 6.5 heads. The only other major issue is the exhaust. The 6.5TD drivers side ex manifold does not fit so I used a 6.2 one and a custom crossover. Also the front drive shaft may be an issue on stock truck. I cleared because mine is lifted. I had alot of other stuff to do but that is because my truck s a CUCV.
Don't know if I said it before but I used a DB2-2831-4911 and Marine Hi pops. Running a GM4 with a TM.
Also I put new Duratherms in. I used a 2000 Waterpump with my serp belt conversion.

 

[acesneights1]

One more day me thinks. Still gotta clean up the wiring. Gotta wire in the CS130, hook up second batt and make a temp exhaust to get the truck to the exhaust shop. Hoping the bigger fan will clear my shroud. May have trimming to do. Also FFM looks to be leaking at the plastic nut.
I'm just happy didn't hear noises . That one valve
Looked a little hammered on top. She's real loud too. Think i got the timing too far advanced. May take my Snap On luminosity probe for a test drive to time it.

 

[acesneights1]

Well I ran it some more next day. I think I have to rip it down again. I see some bubbles in the coolant. Also I had a talk with Bill Heath about the head with the banged up valve. he said there is a hardened 1/16 of an inch cap spun welded on and mine probably fell off.
Anybody know where to buy pre cups ? I have one head I know is good but it has square precups. Otherwise I can put round ones in it but I will have to have it machined as the head has been milled. I'm sorry I took this thing apart. Also it's spiting alot of oil out of the exhaust of the turbo ??

 

[acesneights1]

Well I found another blunder. I used 6.5 hg's when i should have used 6.2.
I bought a used set of 6.5 reman heads from the local junky for 500$. Picking them up after work. 6 month warranty. I need this truck running this weekend so this was my best option. Gonna rip it back down tomorrow. I'll save the head with the hammered valve and use a vale from one of the cracked heads and keep it for a spare.
I got 2 more gm4 turbos so ill swap that while the heads are off. One thing I know ow for sure is the ex manifolds are going on before I put the heads on.

 

[acesneights1]

Next day...
well not been a good day. The heads form the junky were garbage, cracked and I wasn't paying 550$ for cracked heads so now I am screwed and I have a bare block outside sitting open.
BTW I bolted the turbo manifold to the 6.2 head. it will work with short injs. 3rd cyl back requires either slight grind to manifold or just put it in before putting manifold on.

 

[acesneights1]

Well pass side 6.2 head is on. Mounted GM4 #2 that I got from VWLupo awhile back. Looks good and clean inside although it has been sitting awhile. GM4 #1 was pissing like a sick whore in a truck stop.
The Turbonator boys will be proud of me. I recycled the Downpipe from the 6.5 for the first part of the pipe off the turbo. It worked out quite well...There is actually an outline in the wheel well that lines up perfect where I had to cut it for the new downpipe. I have another 6.5 Downpipe I'm gonna cut up for the next bend. Friggin 3" bends are 20$...I'm making mine Sanford and Son style..
Probably save 100$.
I chickened out on the ARP's this time and went with TTYs. I can't deal with ripping this motor apart again. Honestly I'll cut the thing up for parts if I have to. Nothing wrong with TTY's for what I am doing. I will have 2 Used sets of ARP studs going up in the classifieds very soon. I really don't like the way the TTY's feel compared to the ARP's but I can't have more downtime with this truck if the ARP's leak.

Gonna run inside the wheel well with the 3 inch and then go to 5 inch custom Redneckmaster.No muffler...

 

[acesneights1]

Nuther bridge I have to cross. Now that I am using the 6.2 heads and inj lines any issue with removing the timing probe adapter on the #1 cyl on the IP ? I don't think it will work with the #1 cyl 6.2 IP line. The 6.5 one is shorter to accommodate it. AFAIK it's only there for the Kent Moore timing induction light

 

[acesneights1]

Well...
The valve was bent which means about 3 days to get one. I drove all the way across the state to a junky for head. Had the right one. Brought it back. Got to the machinist around 6;15. He stayed late and took the valve I needed for the head and put it together and when the new valve comes in he will put it back in that head for a spare head.
Took tomorrow off. Gonna work until it's done.

 

[acesneights1]

So it's running but the turbo started blowing oil out the exhaust and into the intke. That is turbo # 2. I have a reman one that had a stuck wastegate so I swapped the housing off turbo #1 but before I put it on I started thinking two turbos in a row...Hmmm....
Well I put the drain plate on awhile ago when I tossed the mech LP. I guess when I made the gasket for it it I forgot to cut the hole out for the tube...Oops.
If anyone wants to see a dissected turbo...
FWIW The turbo I swapped the housing on works good so far.
Also snapped a pic of my frame to show why the 6.5 drivers side manifold would not fit.

 

[acesneights1]

more pics..