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insulating and making a cucv a bit quieter

jdeoliveira74

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Has anybody done an entier hood with the peel and seal? Would you have to do multiple layers to get out of the low spots and have a more even surface?

CPTD
I would test it first as I dont know how much heat it will take before it releases!! If you do the hood and then insulate it with the insulation kit from lmc You will be fine!
 

84cucv1ton

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finally started this. Pretty warm nice day so I thought it start. Didn't get it all done. Have a bit more to do. Before I put the door panels back on. I should've put some on the door. Didn't take it on the highway or anything like that yet. Going across town. It is definitely quieter. When I finish it. I think it will be much quieter. I don't even hear the 36 inch tires as much. I recommend this. Worth the time.
 

84cucv1ton

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Jdeoliveira74, did you have a problem making your stick? I thought I cleaned it pretty good. Sweep it out. Wiped it down with a damp cloth. Then use a dry cloth. Parked it in the sun. So I know it would be dry. Press down pretty good with my hands. Seems to be common up in a few spots. Crap might have to redo it aua
 

jdeoliveira74

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:jumpin:I had no problems but they sell a roller to make sure it is stuck. but usually that stuff when it sticks it doesnt come off. I havet had any problems yet. Pull up the area and clean it with rubbing alcohol then lay it back down.. that is recommended when installing dynomat which is basically the same stuff. quited it down quite a bit didnt it!
 

andytk5

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I used this (peel/seal) with the aluminum in my deuce that I already bedlined the floor in. I cleaned the floor, then used rubbing alcohol, I heated the floor and the peel/seal with a heat gun after I peeled the back off. Then laid it down. Went down nice and was really pliable being warm and seemed to bond nicely with the floor. No problems, also going to respray the rubber liner over the peel/seal.

Getting ready to do my 1009 after I finish painting tommorow. Thinking to lay this down and then roll some durabak sand color bedliner over it on the floor area. Should be tight!
 

wallew

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wait for a nice HOT day - lay it OUT IN THE SUN for an hour - that is generally enough to warm it up and make it pliable and easy to handle

This is the same trick you should use if you replace your rubber floor (ask me WHY I know this) - though the time for a rubber floor is more like three or four hours instead of one
 

84cucv1ton

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yes way better now.. soo much better to ride in.. did it to my dads 2 trucks and my uncles. used the big rolls just no foil backing.. worth the time
 

JSF01

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My personal why to deal with the truck noise in four easy steps
1. Install Radio
2. Turn it up till you can't here the truck
3. Truck noise gone.
4. Look cool:driver:
 

84cucv1ton

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well I did this to three vehicles now. Real simple. Little time. quieter truck. One thing I changed tho. the roll from Home Depot are small and $16 each expensive for what it is. Roofing supplied by my house has pretty much the same thing 3 feet wide 40 feet long. Need to see what I paid for it. Can't find receipt now. Was a great price. Only difference is it does not have a foil backing. I really don't see anything that foil backing can do anyway. In my m1008 I had to yell to hear my passenger. Between motor noise and 36 inch bias ply tires. Now don't have to yell at all. Hope this helps someone. thanks for the idea Jdeoliveira74. Now I need to figure out how to insulate the hood. I just ordered a radio to[thumbzup]
 
479
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Location
Madison, WI
Anyone have any problems with the hardware store/roofing stuff peeling back, smelling bad, or oozing thick asphalt goo when it gets hot?

I'm sure it's made to withstand a decent amount of heat, it's made to go on the hottest part of your house after all.


I plan on ripping apart the interior of the 1009 soon, to add some sound deadening paint to the roof, floors, dash (the metal under the dash pad), and possibly doors. Then adding some peel and stick on top of that. Or I was considering just putting bedliner over the sound deadening paint.
And I want to do the hood with the peel and stick and stock hood-liner.
 

jdeoliveira74

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wilmington nc
Anyone have any problems with the hardware store/roofing stuff peeling back, smelling bad, or oozing thick asphalt goo when it gets hot?

I'm sure it's made to withstand a decent amount of heat, it's made to go on the hottest part of your house after all.


I plan on ripping apart the interior of the 1009 soon, to add some sound deadening paint to the roof, floors, dash (the metal under the dash pad), and possibly doors. Then adding some peel and stick on top of that. Or I was considering just putting bedliner over the sound deadening paint.
And I want to do the hood with the peel and stick and stock hood-liner.
I can tell you this I sprayed my wheel wells with bed liner after I installed the quick roof repair. I sticks great but the quick roof repair is soft so if you plan to put stuff on it it will puncture the aluminum coating just a heads up. I would suggest a floor liner or carpet over it!
 
479
0
16
Location
Madison, WI
I can tell you this I sprayed my wheel wells with bed liner after I installed the quick roof repair. I sticks great but the quick roof repair is soft so if you plan to put stuff on it it will puncture the aluminum coating just a heads up. I would suggest a floor liner or carpet over it!


Yeah, I figured I wouldn't use both a bedliner and the roofing insulator. Just one or the other, in addition to the sound deadening paint (it's smooth paint, not grippy like bedliner).


The floor liner that's in the truck right now is in good shape, but it ends right after the front seats, so it looks kinda lame, plus it's too easy to pull up or get stuff stuck under the back part.
I'm debating on whether I want to tackle putting in a floor liner/carpet. So I guess that will be the deciding factor.

We'll see.
 

ChrisinVT

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this stuff is make to fix metal roofing.... As long as the area is clean and it sticks nothing is getting under it!

I have worked with dynomat for years and i have never seen rust issues caused by it
Not necessarily true. I put a LOT of money into redoing the floor in my truck. Sanded it all down to bare metal, replaced all the rusted spots, put POR-15 down, then a whole bunch of damplifier pro, and bedliner over that. It looked GREAT and worked really well for sound and heat insulation until water got in the cab. The bedliner peeled up, the aluminum damplifier corroded and water got underneath it, POR-15 peeled up (Don't get me started on that crap), and the corner of my cab rotted from the inside out. I'm not talking a whole bunch of water, I'm talking maybe a 1/4 cup spread out over the whole inside of the cab.

Anyone have any problems with the hardware store/roofing stuff peeling back, smelling bad, or oozing thick asphalt goo when it gets hot?

I'm sure it's made to withstand a decent amount of heat, it's made to go on the hottest part of your house after all.


I plan on ripping apart the interior of the 1009 soon, to add some sound deadening paint to the roof, floors, dash (the metal under the dash pad), and possibly doors. Then adding some peel and stick on top of that. Or I was considering just putting bedliner over the sound deadening paint.
And I want to do the hood with the peel and stick and stock hood-liner.
I've had this happen with some low-end deadening (Sound Destroyer mat) in my truck and in the trunk of my car. Melted all over the place, got on a whole bunch of stuff, had entire sheets fall off and onto things, just made a HUGE mess. It was so bad that it warped the roof panel in my truck, which was fun to fix.

I have pictures of the trunk of my car somewhere, but I have some pictures of it in my truck here: Why you should KEEP FAR AWAY from "Sound Destroyer Mat"
 

antennaclimber

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I used Fat Mat on my M1009.

Painted it with the sound reducing paint first and then installed the rattle trap material on top.

Seems to be quieter up front. The rear cargo are will be next.
Karl
 

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