ben6195
New member
- 1
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Avon, N.Y.
Hello!
This is my first post, so my name is Ben from upstate NY. I have a 1986 M1009 lifted 8" on 33's that I bought last summer.
I have recently encountered an issue that will take a few lines to explain, so I'm going to express my symptoms, tests and repairs as they were completed with respect to time.
-When I bought the truck, the owner told me he had been using ether to start the vehicle (cold and gp's off), later I discovered this was because he was too negligent to bother figuring out how to fix the gp's. I have since fixed the issue, and have started the truck in sub-freezing temperatures with them. This gives me hope that the compression is not shot due to ether use.
-I had continued to use a light spritz of ether cold and no gp's until I fixed the issue. Truck always started with ease when warm.
-Last fall I noticed that it sounded like the engine timing was changing with no change on the pedal around 55-60. Chatter, then no chatter.
-A few months ago, the truck would start to stall on stops and feel sluggish.
-I've had to use ether again to start it since then, so it doesn't start very much.
-In the past month, I have:
-Tested for air in return line -- fail.
-Replaced the lift pump, box style fuel filter and a couple suspicious lines.
-Leak tested back to the tank -- pass.
-Removed and tested the HPCA / check valve fitting on the IP housing -- fail.
-Bathed check valve in carb cleaner, shot air through with more cleaner in hopes of cleaning seat -- fail.
-It just barely doesn't seat and almost completely restricts backflow and works forward.
-Ran the truck with no air in the return after fixes. Truck will not start DIRECTLY after shutoff, hot or cold.
-Installed a check valve inline after the return fitting. Read entire db2 manual and have a decent understanding.
-Completely isolated the pump with just an inline filter and tank above IP level -- no start.
-Added the lift pump in and placed tank with draw and return lines on ground -- ran perfect with no air but still did not start
directly after turning off. Tested multiple times and same results.
-Re-attached fuel system with the same results.
-Drove around and she's more sluggish but picks up around 20mph and I still hear the slight timing change at high speeds.
I am about to perform a compression test just to rule it out, but otherwise it sounds like an IP issue to me. I want to ask before I change the check valve because I may just need a rebuild. I understand the ip housing needs the pressure drop on cold starts, holding the valve wide open so the advance will work, so the auxiliary check valve may be an issue there, but I still have no start when hot directly after I shut down. I have shutoff solenoid and cold advance switches I installed that both provide 12v when high and work well. I'm going to check the light load advance next to see if it is sticking. Sorry to make it a long post, it's just a complicated issue that needs comprehensive background information. If there is anyone who is experienced with the db2, has had this problem or could give me some insight, it would be infinitely appreciated! I'm not here to argue about ether. We all understand the repercussions and I wish I would've known sooner. Constructive, objective words about ether are welcome! I'm a college student so the budget is tight and want to try and DIY this, but if I need a rebuild, so be it. Thanks in advance!
This is my first post, so my name is Ben from upstate NY. I have a 1986 M1009 lifted 8" on 33's that I bought last summer.
I have recently encountered an issue that will take a few lines to explain, so I'm going to express my symptoms, tests and repairs as they were completed with respect to time.
-When I bought the truck, the owner told me he had been using ether to start the vehicle (cold and gp's off), later I discovered this was because he was too negligent to bother figuring out how to fix the gp's. I have since fixed the issue, and have started the truck in sub-freezing temperatures with them. This gives me hope that the compression is not shot due to ether use.
-I had continued to use a light spritz of ether cold and no gp's until I fixed the issue. Truck always started with ease when warm.
-Last fall I noticed that it sounded like the engine timing was changing with no change on the pedal around 55-60. Chatter, then no chatter.
-A few months ago, the truck would start to stall on stops and feel sluggish.
-I've had to use ether again to start it since then, so it doesn't start very much.
-In the past month, I have:
-Tested for air in return line -- fail.
-Replaced the lift pump, box style fuel filter and a couple suspicious lines.
-Leak tested back to the tank -- pass.
-Removed and tested the HPCA / check valve fitting on the IP housing -- fail.
-Bathed check valve in carb cleaner, shot air through with more cleaner in hopes of cleaning seat -- fail.
-It just barely doesn't seat and almost completely restricts backflow and works forward.
-Ran the truck with no air in the return after fixes. Truck will not start DIRECTLY after shutoff, hot or cold.
-Installed a check valve inline after the return fitting. Read entire db2 manual and have a decent understanding.
-Completely isolated the pump with just an inline filter and tank above IP level -- no start.
-Added the lift pump in and placed tank with draw and return lines on ground -- ran perfect with no air but still did not start
directly after turning off. Tested multiple times and same results.
-Re-attached fuel system with the same results.
-Drove around and she's more sluggish but picks up around 20mph and I still hear the slight timing change at high speeds.
I am about to perform a compression test just to rule it out, but otherwise it sounds like an IP issue to me. I want to ask before I change the check valve because I may just need a rebuild. I understand the ip housing needs the pressure drop on cold starts, holding the valve wide open so the advance will work, so the auxiliary check valve may be an issue there, but I still have no start when hot directly after I shut down. I have shutoff solenoid and cold advance switches I installed that both provide 12v when high and work well. I'm going to check the light load advance next to see if it is sticking. Sorry to make it a long post, it's just a complicated issue that needs comprehensive background information. If there is anyone who is experienced with the db2, has had this problem or could give me some insight, it would be infinitely appreciated! I'm not here to argue about ether. We all understand the repercussions and I wish I would've known sooner. Constructive, objective words about ether are welcome! I'm a college student so the budget is tight and want to try and DIY this, but if I need a rebuild, so be it. Thanks in advance!
