Interior lights and usb chargers

Glider

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South Pittsburg, TN
I'm wanting to install interior lights and USB chargers for cell phones. ill list below the items I have or am ordering.

So far I have 8 led rock lights like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-utilityrock-white-led-light-2-pk-57205.html (will draw 35watts total)

I am considering these usb mounts: this for driver https://12vtechnology.com/products/...v-w-60-inch-wires?_pos=9&_sid=ec5853530&_ss=r and the same dual setup for passenger with voltmeter swapped for 2 additional usb ports.

This rocker panel: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202024543352

All of these components are safe with 24V input. Actually, the USB despite saying 12v is good with up to 30v input according to the manufacturer. I plan to mount on underside of radio tray and would like to be able to unplug for service.

I am looking for help on how to wire as if AMG would have done it and use matching packard connectors and proper wire. I would like all power switched so all dead when start switch is off. I plan on mounting 2 lights in bar just above and behind front seats, all footwells and 2 in bed. I would like a rocker switch mounted in this area and one on passenger side somewhere so either driver or passenger can turn on lights. While I am at it I would like to rewire headlight/service light switch to come on and off from start switch so I can leave on all the time.

All suggestions appreciated CAMO, are you out there?
 

Milcommoguy

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Rosamond, CA
I'm wanting to install interior lights and USB chargers for cell phones. ill list below the items I have or am ordering.

So far I have 8 led rock lights like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-utilityrock-white-led-light-2-pk-57205.html (will draw 35watts total)

I am considering these usb mounts: this for driver https://12vtechnology.com/products/...v-w-60-inch-wires?_pos=9&_sid=ec5853530&_ss=r and the same dual setup for passenger with voltmeter swapped for 2 additional usb ports.

This rocker panel: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202024543352

All of these components are safe with 24V input. Actually, the USB despite saying 12v is good with up to 30v input according to the manufacturer. I plan to mount on underside of radio tray and would like to be able to unplug for service.

I am looking for help on how to wire as if AMG would have done it and use matching packard connectors and proper wire. I would like all power switched so all dead when start switch is off. I plan on mounting 2 lights in bar just above and behind front seats, all footwells and 2 in bed. I would like a rocker switch mounted in this area and one on passenger side somewhere so either driver or passenger can turn on lights. While I am at it I would like to rewire headlight/service light switch to come on and off from start switch so I can leave on all the time.

All suggestions appreciated CAMO, are you out there?
Do to the low current drain of a couple of LEDs, I don't see a problem feeding them off the "RUN" position of the "stop-run-start" switch. Build up Packard connectors to "Y splice" into the switch. Follow best practice of wire routing, connections, insulation, protection and rated fuse close to the tap.

Get fancy with double throw switches like used in hallways. An an extra wire makes it happen for connivance for the driver & passenger...should say passenger or back seat-er turn light on and leave, driver could turn it off without the long reach across tunnel... or place them closer for access.

Straight forward electricity 101. Work out locations and sketch out a drawing to get a clear picture. You know who to call...LOL

Bright idea, CAMO
 

Milcommoguy

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Camo had mentioned the Start box controlled voltage for the entire vehicle I thought about pulling from there.
Yes... could to that too. Would have to tap at "F" of the CAB connector of "BOX" or same wire "F" at the lighting switch. Not Packard friendly. Really...This is a better point for a lighting take off point.

Choice is yours, CAMO
 

Milcommoguy

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I messed up on your light needing to be shut off with RUN switch. Skip that post # 4 My BAD again. LOL

Connect to wire number 567 going to the voltmeter. This should handle any LED cabin lighting and the USB power. See picture and location in red, stolen from 86humv. (y)

Ground of each LED OK to use body / frame IMO and knowing you said that was covered.

Anotheron/off bright idea with RUN, CAMO

voltmeter.JPG
 

Jsmith1529

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Richmond, VA
I messed up on your light needing to be shut off with RUN switch. Skip that post # 4 My BAD again. LOL

Connect to wire number 567 going to the voltmeter. This should handle any LED cabin lighting and the USB power. See picture and location in red, stolen from 86humv. (y)

Ground of each LED OK to use body / frame IMO and knowing you said that was covered.

Anotheron/off bright idea with RUN, CAMO

View attachment 847347
How many amps could you get away with pulling off that terminal?

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JetbikeAnt

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Just finished wiring my 2 Dome lights last night! Made my own wiring harness. Took way too long, but came out bad-ass. I can also switch from Green to white independently if I want. I'm controlling them through a Toggle mounted close to the Drivers Seat.IMG_0893.jpg
 

Milcommoguy

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the body does not make for a good ground. the panels have adhesive between them.
Fact or fiction on the conductivity of the assembled Humv's body panels ??? I haven't seen any proof. My discussion points. :):unsure:

Aircraft skins (metal ones) and for the most part all parts are assembled with sealant. A corrosion preventive first and sticky stuff second. Then lots and lots of metal fasteners of all types, rivets and fancy titanium fasteners. My years of pounding rivets... never had a skin to skin electrical concern. Bonding to specialized components was addressed, ie, high current pumps, nav-comm, and the like. The whole airframe is one big conductor.

If there is that much resistance between riveted body panels to affect the flow of electricity, then there is something really corroded up...IMO.

Point me to the failed riveted panels.

The rivets are not rubber, CAMO
 

papakb

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This is what I did for internal power and USB support. I used an extruded aluminum channel and added a circuit breaker, a dual USB charge outlet (to the left of the 12 meter) , 12 and 24v gauges , a cigarette lighter outlet, and a voltage dropper inside. It all fits nicely under the top shelf of the radio rack.

power strip.jpg
 

Action

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East Tennessee
Fact or fiction on the conductivity of the assembled Humv's body panels ??? I haven't seen any proof. My discussion points. :):unsure:

Aircraft skins (metal ones) and for the most part all parts are assembled with sealant. A corrosion preventive first and sticky stuff second. Then lots and lots of metal fasteners of all types, rivets and fancy titanium fasteners. My years of pounding rivets... never had a skin to skin electrical concern. Bonding to specialized components was addressed, ie, high current pumps, nav-comm, and the like. The whole airframe is one big conductor.

If there is that much resistance between riveted body panels to affect the flow of electricity, then there is something really corroded up...IMO.

Point me to the failed riveted panels.

The rivets are not rubber, CAMO
Good points. I could ask, where is the hmmwv body grounded. I can think of the little screw behind the dash. The body does not make metal contact at the mounts.
And there is no body above the people to attach a ground wire to.
im going to go out and poke around in the driveway now !
 

JetbikeAnt

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Good points. I could ask, where is the hmmwv body grounded. I can think of the little screw behind the dash. The body does not make metal contact at the mounts.
And there is no body above the people to attach a ground wire to.
im going to go out and poke around in the driveway now !
I ran my Ground from the Shunt. I wanted to make sure I had the best Ground I could find. I picked up my hot from the Tow Missile controller circuit. Thought that was cool.
 

Milcommoguy

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I ran my Ground from the Shunt. I wanted to make sure I had the best Ground I could find. I picked up my hot from the Tow Missile controller circuit. Thought that was cool.
:unsure: :)
I admit the HumV grounding is a bit different. If one looks closely schematic basic M998... HumV doesn't use the body / frame as ground return except for the transmission shifter LED. All critical electrical grounds are return wires. This sometimes makes conventional wisdom trouble shooting, troublesome. One can get all looped up with ground loops with poor return wires. You see it commonly with turn / stop lights and a fiberglass hood and of course the "BOX"

Battery ground is thru the shunt (keep it for what ?) and down to the starter. Starter is the ground bolted to the engine. From the block there are other ground connections.

Exceptions are the glow plugs, temp senders, IP, alternator... things that bolt to the engine and the column for the horn return. The body / frame does not (should not) have major current flowing thru it.

Your right... The one connection behind the dash has been pointed out to be an issue... loose or corroded up. One that goes unnoticed is the column tie point too. The "BODY GROUND" some call dash, IMO is one of the "BOX" killers. "BOX" has a "chassis" ground (4 bolts holding) to the footwell and a ground wire on the "BOX" CAB connector pin "D" routed to the steering post. Problem here is they all are landed on that questionable 30 year body ground. Loss a ground and things don't play nice.

An open ground wire has the potential to be a headache and a half. Fun to trouble shoot. IMO "ground harness kit" really doesn't fix it... owner just get in there (once they find it) take it loose, clean it up (maybe) and slap on a bypassing wire. Placebo effect. Seventy five dollars later, HumV feels better.

That's is how I feel. Grounded, CAMO
 
Last edited:

papakb

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The issues that Cam and Jason bring up are all good ones and justification in my mind for the supplemental grounding harness. It bonds together the control box, the body ground stud behind the dash, the alternator, the block and the starter and if nothing else it gets people to at least look at these points and see if they're loose or corroded and FIX THEM! I agree with RWH that the vehicle shouldn't need the harness but hey guys, we're not dealing with new production vehicles out here and everything you can do to improve anything questionable just might save you from an unplanned picnic by the side of the road somewhere. 🛠🛠
 

Elijah95

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The issues that Cam and Jason bring up are all good ones and justification in my mind for the supplemental grounding harness. It bonds together the control box, the body ground stud behind the dash, the alternator, the block and the starter and if nothing else it gets people to at least look at these points and see if they're loose or corroded and FIX THEM! I agree with RWH that the vehicle shouldn't need the harness but hey guys, we're not dealing with new production vehicles out here and everything you can do to improve anything questionable just might save you from an unplanned picnic by the side of the road somewhere.
Speaking of this, I greatly respect RWH advise in every subject but nonetheless a supplemental ground harness significantly helped my issues in my M1123 blowing headlights, gauges etc and bad charging

Here’s a video below



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Jsmith1529

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Location
Richmond, VA
I would say at 5 to 8 would be safe. Remember this is for some LED's lights.

Any more go with a slave relay to supply the switched power.

Better safe than shorted, CAMO
I mounted a 12v fuse box in the passenger rear seat well with a 100amp disconnect and ran all my accessories through that. Reverse lights, chargers, interior lights, radio, etc. Now, I feel like I worked a lot harder and spent a lot more money than necessary. I've got 1200 watts if I ever need it but I'll never get close to that sans relay. Work smart, not hard right?

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JetbikeAnt

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Elverson, PA
:unsure: :)
I admit the HumV grounding is a bit different. If one looks closely schematic basic M998... HumV doesn't use the body / frame as ground return except for the transmission shifter LED. All critical electrical grounds are return wires. This sometimes makes conventional wisdom trouble shooting, troublesome. One can get all looped up with ground loops with poor return wires. You see it commonly with turn / stop lights and a fiberglass hood and of course the "BOX"

Battery ground is thru the shunt (keep it for what ?) and down to the starter. Starter is the ground bolted to the engine. From the block there are other ground connections.

Exceptions are the glow plugs, temp senders, IP, alternator... things that bolt to the engine and the column for the horn return. The body / frame does not (should not) have major current flowing thru it.

Your right... The one connection behind the dash has been pointed out to be an issue... loose or corroded up. One that goes unnoticed is the column tie point too. The "BODY GROUND" some call dash, IMO is one of the "BOX" killers. "BOX" has a "chassis" ground (4 bolts holding) to the footwell and a ground wire on the "BOX" CAB connector pin "D" routed to the steering post. Problem here is they all are landed on that questionable 30 year body ground. Loss a ground and things don't play nice.

An open ground wire has the potential to be a headache and a half. Fun to trouble shoot. IMO "ground harness kit" really doesn't fix it... owner just get in there (once they find it) take it loose, clean it up (maybe) and slap on a bypassing wire. Placebo effect. Seventy five dollars later, HumV feels better.

That's is how I feel. Grounded, CAMO
I know I should know this, but could you send a pick and location of "the ground behind the dash?" Every time I see a grounding point I clean and coat it. I may have missed this one. Thanks!
 
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