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intermediate starting issue

carter262

Member
152
11
18
Location
NC
So I have developed a new issue. and I am hoping some one can point me in the right direction. A few different time I have start my CUCV and it starts as normal and then cuts off. It then will start back but its a hard start; you have to turn it over and over till it finally starts. Sometimes quicker than other times. This is not a constant problem and appears to be randomly occurring. This morning it did it and I thought I was going to kill the batteries trying to get it to start. The first time it has taken that long to restart.

Vehicle information:
1984 M1009.
Stock wiring system (24 volt)
Replaced / New: Glow plugs, glow plug control card, injectors, injector soft lines, fuel pump, plugged the ICE hole on the filter block so no air leaks there.

Any ideas or help is always appreciated.

Thank you.
 

Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
575
657
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
Now that's a problem. I've never had the problem but it is documented in the TMs.
TM 9-2320-289-10 says
3. ENGINE STARTS BUT DOES NOT CONTINUE TO RUN
Step 1. Fuel level may be low. Check fuel gage with ignition switch in the "ON" position.
Add fuel if necessary.
Step 2. Check for water in fuel.
Drain fuel filter following procedures outlined in paragraph 3-7. Restart
engine. Refer to paragraph 2-8.

TM 9-2320-230-20 says
20. STARTS BUT WILL NOT CONTINUE TO RUN, HARD RESTARTING
Step 1. Inspect air cleaner filter and polywrap,
Replace air cleaner filter if required. Clean polywrap if required. (See
paragraph 3-9)
Step 2. Check idle speed setting. (See paragraph 3-25)
WARNING
Diesel fuel is flammable. When disconnecting fuel lines to test fuel flow,
direct fuel spray away from source of ignition. A fire extinguisher must be
on hand in work area. Failure to follow this warning may result in serious
injury or death to personnel.
Step 3. Check for leaking or restricted fuel lines.
Tighten fittings or replace leaking or restricted lines. (See paragraph 3-13 or
3-14)
If no leaks or crimps are obvious, bleed fuel filter. (See paragraph 3-17)
Step 4. Check for contaminated fuel by draining fuel from fuel filter draincock into suitable
container. Check color of fuel to determine if the correct fuel is in fuel system.
Drain fuel and replace if contaminated or incorrect fuel is in fuel system.
Step 5. Check seals on vent plug and draincock on fuel filter for damage. (See paragraph
3-17)
Replace damaged seals. (See paragraph 3-17)
Step 6. Check fuel pump operation. Disconnect input fuel line at the fuel filter. Disconnect
pink lead from fuel injector pump. Use a quart capacity container and crank engine
for 15 seconds. Container should be at least ¼ full or contain ½ pt (0.23 1) of fuel,
Install low pressure gage in fuel line. Crank engine for 15 more seconds. Fuel
pressure should be 5.5-6.5 psi (38-45 kPa). Connect fuel inlet line to fuel filter and
connect pink lead to fuel injector pump.
If fuel flow is insufficient, replace fuel pump. (See paragraph 3-10)

I hope that helps. Good luck.
 

carter262

Member
152
11
18
Location
NC
Now that's a problem. I've never had the problem but it is documented in the TMs.
TM 9-2320-289-10 says
3. ENGINE STARTS BUT DOES NOT CONTINUE TO RUN
Step 1. Fuel level may be low. Check fuel gage with ignition switch in the "ON" position.
Add fuel if necessary.
Step 2. Check for water in fuel.
Drain fuel filter following procedures outlined in paragraph 3-7. Restart
engine. Refer to paragraph 2-8.

TM 9-2320-230-20 says
20. STARTS BUT WILL NOT CONTINUE TO RUN, HARD RESTARTING
Step 1. Inspect air cleaner filter and polywrap,
Replace air cleaner filter if required. Clean polywrap if required. (See
paragraph 3-9)
Step 2. Check idle speed setting. (See paragraph 3-25)
WARNING
Diesel fuel is flammable. When disconnecting fuel lines to test fuel flow,
direct fuel spray away from source of ignition. A fire extinguisher must be
on hand in work area. Failure to follow this warning may result in serious
injury or death to personnel.
Step 3. Check for leaking or restricted fuel lines.
Tighten fittings or replace leaking or restricted lines. (See paragraph 3-13 or
3-14)
If no leaks or crimps are obvious, bleed fuel filter. (See paragraph 3-17)
Step 4. Check for contaminated fuel by draining fuel from fuel filter draincock into suitable
container. Check color of fuel to determine if the correct fuel is in fuel system.
Drain fuel and replace if contaminated or incorrect fuel is in fuel system.
Step 5. Check seals on vent plug and draincock on fuel filter for damage. (See paragraph
3-17)
Replace damaged seals. (See paragraph 3-17)
Step 6. Check fuel pump operation. Disconnect input fuel line at the fuel filter. Disconnect
pink lead from fuel injector pump. Use a quart capacity container and crank engine
for 15 seconds. Container should be at least ¼ full or contain ½ pt (0.23 1) of fuel,
Install low pressure gage in fuel line. Crank engine for 15 more seconds. Fuel
pressure should be 5.5-6.5 psi (38-45 kPa). Connect fuel inlet line to fuel filter and
connect pink lead to fuel injector pump.
If fuel flow is insufficient, replace fuel pump. (See paragraph 3-10)

I hope that helps. Good luck.

I am about to go back through your suggestions. I have checked them last time this happened and could not find an issue. Thanks
 

carter262

Member
152
11
18
Location
NC
Okay I have checked all the TM recommendations listed above except checking the fuel pressure. I do not have a gauge.

I can find no problems or leaks. I am getting fuel throught the fuel filter and found no water in the fuel. Also the problem did not reoccur each time I started it this time. As I said before the problem seems random and not consistent.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,274
9,598
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I believe with a high degree of confidence that the fuel injection pump has checked out. Many people dance around this as the issue because it is expensive and it is a task to change. But once it is changed with a properly rebuilt pump that was made for the CUCV you will say WOW I should have just done that last year and it would be done now. It cures a lot of ills on the vehicle when properly timed and I speak from years of experience. Good Luck. Be Safe. Report Back.
 

carter262

Member
152
11
18
Location
NC
I believe with a high degree of confidence that the fuel injection pump has checked out. Many people dance around this as the issue because it is expensive and it is a task to change. But once it is changed with a properly rebuilt pump that was made for the CUCV you will say WOW I should have just done that last year and it would be done now. It cures a lot of ills on the vehicle when properly timed and I speak from years of experience. Good Luck. Be Safe. Report Back.

Thanks for the input. Where is the best place to buy one?
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
809
113
Location
Virginia
It could be a bad connection in the pink wire that supplies voltage to the fuel cutoff solenoid. You could have an intermittent fault there.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,274
9,598
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Thanks for the input. Where is the best place to buy one?
I will place this here for you. Call the number make arrangements to get the same pump you send rebuilt and use this company. I have used them with little or no issues over the past 20+ years. Everything from trucks, cars, forklifts and loaders. But call them and make your deal. Or do as you wish. Good Luck Be Safe and Enjoy Life.

https://dieselcare.store/collections/chevy-fuel-systems/products/rebuild-service-for-1983-1994-6-9l-7-3l-ford-idi-db2

https://dieselcare.store/collection...ice-for-injection-pump-for-6-2l-chevrolet-gmc

But do call them and make sure up front they are aware what you are working on. I hope this helps you out. That is a great price.
 

dependable

Well-known member
1,720
187
63
Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
Agree, I'd check for air leak first. Especially if problem mainly occurs on first start of day. It will often not show up as visible leak. If you bleed top of filter housing when problem is occurring, and you get air bubbles, you know to look further for leak. Shut off solenoid is also easy to check, but not as common a problem.

Of course it could well be the IP, but no harm in eliminating other possibilities.

Do you park on flat surface? If it happens more when nose of truck faces up, and less if facing down, it is probably air leak or check valve leak.
 
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