International I4 Tractor

[2deuce]

I bought this at auction. The only bidder against me was the scrapper. It looked very rough, but not as bad when I got it home. Engine is stuck, and so is one brake. 2 tires are rotted off. We had to drag it up on the trailer. I need to find out how the brakes work on this tractor. It looks like something inside the transmission is the brake. I bought it because it was military, and because I liked the data plates on the fender. I thought I'd save the fender, but now I'm thinking maybe if the engine can be freed up it might be saveable. I don't know what the Army Corp of Engineers would have used it for? It has a pintle hitch on the back. The contract # on one of the plates says 1950. It's a 25hp gas engine according to the data plates, and it had a USA number. I really hated to see it go to scrap, to bring it back would be costly. Anybody know anything about these tractors? Thanks

 

[Mullaney]

I bought this at auction. The only bidder against me was the scrapper. It looked very rough, but not as bad when I got it home. Engine is stuck, and so is one brake. 2 tires are rotted off. We had to drag it up on the trailer. I need to find out how the brakes work on this tractor. It looks like something inside the transmission is the brake. I bought it because it was military, and because I liked the data plates on the fender. I thought I'd save the fender, but now I'm thinking maybe if the engine can be freed up it might be saveable. I don't know what the Army Corp of Engineers would have used it for? It has a pintle hitch on the back. The contract # on one of the plates says 1950. It's a 25hp gas engine according to the data plates, and it had a USA number. I really hated to see it go to scrap, to bring it back would be costly. Anybody know anything about these tractors? Thanks

.
Maybe post a picture of the data plate?
I have several International Harvester TM's that haven't been posted the forum (yet).

 

[Guyfang]

We need to know more info on what it is/called by the COE.

 

[NDT]

Cool tractor! Lots of pics on the net. Corps would have used them for pulling rollers or sweepers. Ordnance would use for pulling wagons around depots. Hope you restore it!

 

[2deuce]

.
Maybe post a picture of the data plate?
I have several International Harvester TM's that haven't been posted the forum (yet).

My son took some pictures. I'll have him send me them over soon.

 

[2deuce]

The tractor doesn't look like much with the mangled hood along with the radiator and grille missing. From what I've found is those items as well as many others were also used on the W4, and maybe the Farmall A. One of the more unusual things about it is the engine doesn't have a dip stick. There is a boss on the side of the engine for one, but it was not put in. It's the 1st engine I've seen that has 2 valves on the side of the oil pan, one above the other that let oil drain out to show the level, either oil runs out when it's full from the top one or some comes out from the lower one telling you you're in safe range, or nothing comes out, and you better pour some in! Before I figured that out I loosened the drain plug on the pan and only about a quarter cup of water came out before oil appeared. So there is a good chance there is not too much rust in there, as it's not full of water. It does still have the hand crank. Moving it around let alone getting it off the trailer is an issue with those bad tires. I did take the fender with the data plates off so the bad tire won't get caught on it when it's moved.

 

[2deuce]

Trying again with pictures.View attachment 1000000419.jpg

 

[NDT]

Nice! I suspect it does not have a pto or 3 point attachment since it’s the industrial model?

 

[2deuce]

here is the data plate.

 

[2deuce]

Nice! I suspect it does not have a pto or 3 point attachment since it’s the industrial model?

It doesn't have the 3 point hitch, it has a spring loaded pintle hitch so the trailer load is cushioned on take off. I have not seen anything like it with a pintle hitch before, but I don't think I've seen a pintle hitch on a tractor before either. It does have a power take-off.

 

[M37keppy]

The I4 and w4 would the same as the farmall H. Most parts, engine, transmission, and some other are interchangeable. Do not scrap those rear weights, they are hard to find!

 

[2deuce]

The I4 and w4 would the same as the farmall H. Most parts, engine, transmission, and some other are interchangeable. Do not scrap those rear weights, they are hard to find!

Did the W4 & H have a dip stick on the engine? I'm still amazed at the lack of one on this tractor. Can you tell me about the braking system? Thanks

 

[M37keppy]

Mostly nope on the dipstick, two turn valves. The Farmall M’s were the same way. There was an aftermarket dipstick sold by other manufacturers and still is by parts suppliers. The brakes should be a simple band around a drum that’s on a shaft with a gear in gauging the bull gear on the axle if I remember right.

 

[msgjd]

Did the W4 & H have a dip stick on the engine? I'm still amazed at the lack of one on this tractor. Can you tell me about the braking system? Thanks

1: No dipstick .. On yours you will find two thumb knobs on the R-side of the oil pan .. You crack the top petcock first.. If oil drips out you are good to go

If no oil drips out the top petcock, you close it and then crack open the lower one . If it drips, your level is within the safe operating range.. That's how it works. Been running these motors since the 1960's .. If the petcocks are too tight, just tap gently with a wrench or a light hammer.. Be gentle

If there is no drip from the bottom petcock (nor the top), you need to add oil.. Re-open the top petcock and fill only until the top one drips .. If you want to keep it continuously topped off daily you don't bother with the lower petcock, just add oil until it drips from the top one.. You get the picture

The oil fill is on the Right-front side , sits on top of the housing just ahead of the magneto (or distributor) .. It's a flat horizontal screw-on cap about 3" round.. The retaining stud is supposed to stay threaded down inside the housing but on some tractors the cap and the stud comes out as one.. Sometimes you may need to tap the finger ribs on the top of the cap with a wrench to loosen it.. Be careful, not too hard because I've seen tractors with a broken internal casting down inside the housing right where the threaded stud was supposed to attach

They are designed for straight-30W oil in above-freezing weather.. Also you might want to crack your oil drain plug for water at some point

Any manual on the Farmall H or W4 will cover your motor .. A manual on the W4 will likely cover everything about your "I" model and more, as you likely don't have a PTO or a belt pulley .. And of course none of the W4's, I4's and H's (nor any others except ford-ferguson) had 3-point hitch at the time, since ol' Harry's patent had not run out yet.. No power steering either.. The "I's" are usually a drawbar-only tractor

I owned an IH-McCormick Super WD6 (gas/diesel) for a spell, it was a tiresome tank to operate but very powerful on the corn chopper and baler .. It looked like yours but 2x the size all the way around .. There was also a shop mule made, which looks like your tractor but less than 1/2 the size .. Imagine that

2: Brakes. : Your brakes are inside the @12" round cast covers, one each appearing on each side of the transmission .. Yours will have the band-type brakes .. IMO they are a better brake than the disk-type that appeared post-1952 which is prone to grabbing and locking up tight when the activate/release balls get rusty or pitted

If your tractor has sat a long time you will want to take those covers off and lube all pivot points internally and externally before trying to use the brakes, or they may stick and drag .. Also it's good to use RTV or make a gasket for those covers when you reinstall them .. Rain water can get into them otherwise, and sometimes get into the transmission.. But perhaps the I4's have an ample platform above, protecting the brake housings from rain .. I know the H's and M's etc do not have that "luxury"

Which brings up another sticky point ,,,

You might not have a brake sticking. Instead, one side of your final drive may be seized by rust.. Crack the 3/4" drain plug located just above the drawbar and just below the rear PTO (or blank PTO cover). I bet water comes pouring out.. I bought a '53 once which drained a good 7+ gallons of water from the rear differential/transmission before I got oil

All these IH's from 1939 into the 1950's are famous for it .. Sometimes it's accumulated condensation, but mostly it's because the rubber ring underneath the metal shifter rain cap rots away.. Water runs right down the shifter , past the failed "seal", and into the trans

If you're lucky you may be able to free the brake or differential up by rocking back and forth , I've had that work out okay.. But not always

 

[2deuce]

1: No dipstick .. On yours you will find two thumb knobs on the R-side of the oil pan .. You crack the top petcock first.. If oil drips out you are good to go

If no oil drips out the top petcock, you close it and then crack open the lower one . If it drips, your level is within the safe operating range.. That's how it works. Been running these motors since the 1960's .. If the petcocks are too tight, just tap gently with a wrench or a light hammer.. Be gentle

If there is no drip from the bottom petcock (nor the top), you need to add oil.. Re-open the top petcock and fill only until the top one drips .. If you want to keep it continuously topped off daily you don't bother with the lower petcock, just add oil until it drips from the top one.. You get the picture

The oil fill is on the Right-front side , sits on top of the housing just ahead of the magneto (or distributor) .. It's a flat horizontal screw-on cap about 3" round.. The retaining stud is supposed to stay threaded down inside the housing but on some tractors the cap and the stud comes out as one.. Sometimes you may need to tap the finger ribs on the top of the cap with a wrench to loosen it.. Be careful, not too hard because I've seen tractors with a broken internal casting down inside the housing right where the threaded stud was supposed to attach

They are designed for straight-30W oil in above-freezing weather.. Also you might want to crack your oil drain plug for water at some point

Any manual on the Farmall H or W4 will cover your motor .. A manual on the W4 will likely cover everything about your "I" model and more, as you likely don't have a PTO or a belt pulley .. And of course none of the W4's, I4's and H's (nor any others) came with 3-point hitch, since Harry Ferguson's patent had not run out yet.. No power steering either.. The "I's" are usually a drawbar-only tractor

I owned an IH-McCormick Super WD6 (gas/diesel) for a spell, it was a tiresome tank to operate but very powerful on the corn chopper and baler .. It looked like yours but 2x the size all the way around .. There was also a shop mule made, which looks like your tractor but less than 1/2 the size .. Imagine that

2: Brakes. : Your brakes are inside the @12" round cast covers, one each appearing on each side of the transmission .. Yours will have the band-type brakes .. IMO they are a better brake than the disk-type that appeared post-1952 which is prone to grabbing and locking up tight when the activate/release balls get rusty or pitted

If your tractor has sat a long time you will want to take those covers off and lube all pivot points internally and externally before trying to use the brakes, or they may stick and drag .. Also it's good to use RTV or make a gasket for those covers when you reinstall them .. Rain water can get into them otherwise, and sometimes get into the transmission

Which brings up another sticky point ,,,

You might not have a brake sticking. Instead, one side of your final drive may be seized by rust.. Crack the 3/4" drain plug located just above the drawbar and just below the rear PTO (or blank PTO cover). I bet water comes pouring out.. I bought a '53 once which drained a good 7+ gallons of water from the rear differential/transmission before I got oil

All these IH's from 1939 into the 1950's are famous for it .. Sometimes it's accumulated condensation, but mostly it's because the rubber ring underneath the metal shifter rain cap rots away.. Water runs right down the shifter , past the failed "seal", and into the trans

If you're lucky you may be able to free it up by rocking back and forth , I've had that work out okay.. But not always

Thanks for all that information!! This tractor is about an hour from home so being prepared as much as possible is important. Like when we picked up this tractor I brought a 13/16" spark plug wrench that was too small, and couldn't soak the engine like I wanted. I did drain a little water from the bottom of the oil pan, but it wasn't enough to impact the engine. I loosened the plug and water dribbled out until it stopped. I tried loosening the plug a little bit more but it fell out, and made a mess before I got it back in. The oil in it still had a little lube to it, but it had no smell. I think it's stuck from lack of use....I hope not too hard! I looked in the oil fill and didn't see any rust there so I'm hopeful
The tractor does have a PTO, but not a draw bar. It has a spring loaded Pintle hook. It was an Army Corp of Engineers tractor. That was my main motive from keeping it from the scrapper even with all of it's detractions.
The shifter is tucked forward out of the weather and sun to a greater degree than many tractors so I'm hopeful there isn't much water in it. The rubber on the shifter was still present, but I didn't feel it to see how hard it is. I'll check the plug for water when I'm back there in a couple days.