IP pump m1009

[REDWOLF]

Does anyone know if the seal on the passenger side of the ip pump can be replaced without pulling the pump out. It is the seal at the bottom behind the leaver. Mine is leaking bad from there.

 

[sparky1]

Does anyone know if the seal on the passenger side of the ip pump can be replaced without pulling the pump out. It is the seal at the bottom behind the leaver. Mine is leaking bad from there.

according to my gm service book the throttle shaft seals are serviceable without removing the pump

 

[motormayhem]

When those go the pump soon follows, not because of the seal, but because the pump and that seal seem to always wear out together. Might start filling the piggy bank.

 

[REDWOLF]

Thanks. I have a new ip pump just did not fill like swaping it in just yet.

 

[CUCV85]

When those go the pump soon follows, not because of the seal, but because the pump and that seal seem to always wear out together. Might start filling the piggy bank.

Thanks. I have a new ip pump just did not fill like swaping it in just yet.

I replaced my seals on the throttle shaft. To remove the shaft it cames out to the side horizontally. You have to remove the intake manifold!!!
I agree with motormayhem 100%
After I went through all of the work to remove the intake manifold to service the throttle shaft seals I had to take it all back off INCLUDING the Injection Pump not even 3 months later, the pump failed. But hey, My throttle shaft quit leaking HA HA HA HA... Take the joke. It's your choice to mess with the throttle shaft seals. You might get a year out of the injection pump who knows!? I strongly recommend and encourage you to do a complete tear out and have that 25 year old Injection Pump rebuilt - your Engine will thank you! You be very happy with the results. My truck runs extremely well now. My advance piston in the bottom was scoured real bad and had to be honed and replaced those costing more money. It ended up being 509.00 but man was it worth it. I have put over 15k on it and I will run it 100k more, keeping fingers crossed
JP8 fuel the military uses is clean burning butis much harsher on seals, is it me or do these engines run on Diesel? Hmmm now I see why these pumps fail! AND they are 25 years old...

 

[dmc-4359]

May I ask how you actually removed the throttle shaft to replace the seals? On the opposite side of the throttle linkage, I see the collar/clamp looking deal but I'm unable to discern how I get the other gizmos out of the way without breaking them so that loosening the clamp would matter. That is, assuming the throttle shaft is meant to slide out towards the driver's side of the truck.


I've got a similar leak that drips from the highlighted spot on the throttle linkage below. I've got another injector pump as well, but would rather just replace the seals if I can get away with that.

This is the bit where I seem to have run out of talent;

 

[CUCV85]

your in good shape already!

May I ask how you actually removed the throttle shaft to replace the seals? On the opposite side of the throttle linkage, I see the collar/clamp looking deal but I'm unable to discern how I get the other gizmos out of the way without breaking them so that loosening the clamp would matter. That is, assuming the throttle shaft is meant to slide out towards the driver's side of the truck.


I've got a similar leak that drips from the highlighted spot on the throttle linkage below. I've got another injector pump as well, but would rather just replace the seals if I can get away with that.

This is the bit where I seem to have run out of talent;

great pics, we thank you. Well, you have all the hard part done, well there's always putting back together You remove those vacuum lines off of the vacuum control module, there's 2. Then take a 3/8 wrench and remove those 2 bolts holding it to the throttle shaft. Remove the screw on that keeper, slide out the throttle shaft to YES the drives side, remove those 2 seals and reinstall new ones, slide back in put back together. When you put the vacuum control module back on try to remember where it is located, well - where you would like the transmission to shift at "shift points" as you give the truck fuel that shaft turns thus turning the spring inside that vacuum control module. I have mine rotated all the way back TOWARD the cab or all the way "back".
The military had them all the way forward for the hardest shift points, so kids could beat the snot out of them and for towing without taking chances to stressing the automatic transmission. When I did my throttle shaft seals I replaced those 2 vacuum lines leading to and from the vacuum control module. Yes, I know that the one going from the control module leads to a hard line. I replaced both with that same size rubber hose. Shifts great, softer much softer, but not to soft. I replaced the transmission module in the side near the bottom of the transmission for 12.00. It has a brass screw you can turn in and out to also adjust your shift points. I turned mine out like 2 turns from factory setting. You can turn in approximately 10 turns or out 10 turns.

 

[dmc-4359]

Man, that is an excellent description. Thank you.

btw - where can I get these seals in a hurry? Are they standard fuel injection type o rings that I would find in a fuel injected o-ring kit from Advance or is this something I need to order specifically from the dealer?

 

[CUCV85]

diesel injection pump repair shop

Man, that is an excellent description. Thank you.

BTW - where can I get these seals in a hurry? Are they standard fuel injection type o rings that I would find in a fuel injected o-ring kit from Advance or is this something I need to order specifically from the dealer?

I got mine from a reputable father and sons injection pump repair shop.
Ralph's Diesel, State Route 20, NY <---- Also rebuilt my IP later on, for guys in Central New York State.
I believe the ones on it where brown.
the ones they gave me - yup they gave them to me for free!
They were green.
You should be able to get the from local places like Advance auto parts
just take in original they are an O ring nothing special to my knowledge!

 

[dmc-4359]

Well the slide out part for the throttle shaft isn't working for me. For everything in the world, it feels like it is hitting something solid. It moves about a half inch to 3/4" before stopping though. I suspect I'm now committed to swapping out the pump. Thoughts on what I might be missing?

 

[CUCV85]

Well the slide out part for the throttle shaft isn't working for me. For everything in the world, it feels like it is hitting something solid. It moves about a half inch to 3/4" before stopping though. I suspect I'm now committed to swapping out the pump. Thoughts on what I might be missing?

You did remove the keeper that is held on with an Allen head type screw?
You also did remove the 3 bolts on top of the IP and remove the shaft that also has an Allen head type screw/bolt that holds the Governor Correct?
That throttle shaft has a two sided flat machined surface that the Governor rocks on like a cam. You did or do notice once that cover is off the IP (held on by 3 screws) that there is a small wire that is on top of the "cam screw" toward the cab of the truck? When you reassemble everything inside the top of the IP make sure it looks just like it did before! Let me tell you how I did my 2 seals - You have the intake off already, Seen that - as far as that "cam bolt"? (north/south location) only slide it back enough to just take off the claw looking thing "cam"? So that you keep that wire on top of the setup. I just lay ed that cam down right in the bottom of that area so that during re assembly that you just slide that bolt right back through everything and tighten it up. As far as that throttle shaft that goes (side to side -
"west/east" location) you have to pull it out completely just put new o rings on after removing old ones and put it right back in. That's all you can do as far as doing maintenance on the IP without removing it to rebuild. One other part you can check is the fuel return valve, it has a ball inside make sure it is clean, this is located on the cover you removed (which was held on by those 3 screws.)
*While you have everything out you might want to get a partner to help turn the motor over with a 15/16 socket on the bottom pulley bolt head - this rotates the fuel pump to get to a fuel adjustment screw!*
Turn Up the Fuel on a 6.2 - 6.5 GM Diesel Mechanical Injection Pump
I used a 1/2 drive ratchet/small extension and the socket. Turn either direction to move the pump to see the fuel adjustment screw if you want to bump it up turn from 12 to 2 O'Clock.
In this picture, the Allen wrench is in the fuel screw.
Top View of injection pump with the top cover and governor assembly removed. Suck the fuel out with a turkey baster
This is the fuel screw, aligned with the access hole, adjust it clockwise to increase fuel. how ever you have the 5/32 Allen wrench in there go to numbers like on a clock - clockwise. see link above...

 

[dmc-4359]

I did not notice the bit about removing the cover, but thankfully it is no longer an issue as I have ruined the pump entirely. So now that I've upgraded tonight's learning experience to full on injector pump replacement, can you tell me how best to keep that giant gear in place once I remove the injector pump shaft? Is all this covered in a book somewhere by chance? I checked the tech manuals available on this site but can't seem to find the information I need on removing this pump. If i'm just dumb, would anyone be willing to direct me to a page in one of the manuals that covers my predicament?

I've already removed the three bolts securing the pump to the gear and have the injector lines disconnected. I started removing the three nuts and bolts that hold the pump housing to the engine and then I realized that if I pull this free and the gear flops over to one side or something, I won't have the timing gauranteed the same when I reinstall the injector pump.

Also, I don't know what tricks you guys used to keep your bolts from falling down into the crankcase but I ended up just using a magnetic pickup gizmo alongside my socket when the bolt was loose from the injector pump shaft.




"hours of wrenching can save minutes of direction reading"

 

[dmc-4359]

Got it figured out. Found a nice little write up on the web that indicated the gear would stay put so long as I didn't get sporting and rotate the crankshaft after the injector pump was removed. So I now have a new injector pump...though with my original cap because the new pump has a 24v fuel solenoid. I took some pictures and I think I might do a write up of sorts with them since there might be other booger eaters like myself who respond better to crayons/pictures over words and such (grin).

Final result this evening:

btw - here's what three guinness, constant egging on from friends who didn't turn any wrenches but kept offering a hammer, and an end user dialing the stupid up to 11 looks like:

I'd like to use the above picture as a reminder: If the throttle shaft (or whatever sensitive item you are working on) won't slide out easily, don't keep hitting it with a hammer "just to see". Some days I look at some of the things I've done and wonder how it is possible I'm able to find my way home more often than not.


So I should be done with this guy tomorrow. If anyone wants to look at the pictures before I make links to them on a write up or anything, you can find them in the following folder:

www.v8dmc.com - /images/blazer/

The injector pump shots begin with "IP".

 

[akonitony]

I see you have the same housekeeping service for your shop that I do. That wanda sure is hot in her swedish maid outfit, isn't she? Too bad she can't sweep or do windows...

 

[CUCV85]

Got it figured out. Found a nice little write up on the web that indicated the gear would stay put so long as I didn't get sporting and rotate the crankshaft after the injector pump was removed. So I now have a new injector pump...though with my original cap because the new pump has a 24v fuel solenoid. I took some pictures and I think I might do a write up of sorts with them since there might be other booger eaters like myself who respond better to crayons/pictures over words and such (grin).

Final result this evening:

btw - here's what three guinness, constant egging on from friends who didn't turn any wrenches but kept offering a hammer, and an end user dialing the stupid up to 11 looks like:

I'd like to use the above picture as a reminder: If the throttle shaft (or whatever sensitive item you are working on) won't slide out easily, don't keep hitting it with a hammer "just to see". Some days I look at some of the things I've done and wonder how it is possible I'm able to find my way home more often than not.


So I should be done with this guy tomorrow. If anyone wants to look at the pictures before I make links to them on a write up or anything, you can find them in the following folder:

www.v8dmc.com - /images/blazer/

The injector pump shots begin with "IP".

We thank you for your photos!
looks like you where in a hurry, hopefully you have saved someone else troubles. Looks like you need a new governor shaft.
You probably didn't see that there was a bolt there because yes the cover was still on and also it takes an Allen wrench toward the back of the pump to remove that bolt. I really tried to help you best I could but, at least you have a different pump. Has that pump been rebuilt? If it has you should install it with the center at the timing line slightly to one side or other. I can't remember someone will chime in. When I had my pump rebuilt the fella told me to install it off the factory timing scribe line. <--- don't know what it's called.
Oh, that pump you removed, now that the cover is off take the bolt out for the governor, rotate the little cam claw on the throttle shaft to slide it out. If you rotate the pump and look down in the little hole at the bottom you eventually by rotating it will see the fuel adjustment screw. It's 5/32 Allen wrench that fits it. If you ever wanted to bump your new one up or have a little knowledge on how to do it to tell a buddy here's your chance without having to bend over the front of the truck and looking down in the top with a flashlight as someone else rotates the engine over so you can see the fuel adjustment screw.
just my two cents...

 

[dmc-4359]

Regarding that original pump, I didn't even take the top cover off. I didn't realize there was anything in there I needed to worry about and like I said...plenty of motivation to see if it would pop out, hehe. I learn by doing and generally that means doing it wrong at least once. I wanted to post access to all of the pictures in case someone was running a search and found this thread.

Thank you for the heads up; I have read about turning up the fuel and I'll likely do it but I have bent a piece of box tubing that allows me to turn the engine over by hand from the top while I'm looking down at the engine. I also work in my shop, so there is usually no need for flashlights.


That said, my shop could certainly do for a better maid service.

 

[dmc-4359]

Well shoot. I got the new pump in there, forgot the throttle return spring, scared the **** out of myself, then got it buttoned up properly and it runs great...except for a fuel leak on at the back of the pump on one of the injector lines. Is it possible to tighten one of the lower connectors on the back of the pump while it is in the truck or do I need to remove this thing again?

edit - nevermind, I figured out what I was doing wrong. Ultimately I needed a not quite so deep well 1/2" and I was able to get everything sorted out. The regular deep well was bumping the other lines and I didn't relish the thought of unhooking all eight just to tighten one.