yes, that's correct, both transformers and motorThanks, so you are saying that I need to connect H1 to H3, and H4 to H2 and then I have to go to the head unit and change the wires there so it can run in 220v as well correct?
Thanks!
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yes, that's correct, both transformers and motorThanks, so you are saying that I need to connect H1 to H3, and H4 to H2 and then I have to go to the head unit and change the wires there so it can run in 220v as well correct?
Thanks!
Thanks, this seems to be a 5 minute job then.yes, that's correct, both transformers and motor
Make sure to double check the Fuse Ratings, to make sure your electrician left the fuses for 220V configuration in place as you believe he did.Thanks, this seems to be a 5 minute job then.
This will enable me to run more that one machine at a time as the 440>220 setups prevented this.
Thanks again!!
I checked them when I was originally just trying the wiring by changing the lead arrangement on the head motor.Make sure to double check the Fuse Ratings, to make sure your electrician left the fuses for 220V configuration in place as you believe he did.
Interesting, don’t apply power to the configuration in your picturesJust to clarify, L1 to L3 and L2 to L4 but no connector between the two?
No, you have to exactly do it the way I showed it in post #46With the 440v setup, L1 went to H1, and L2 went to H4 while H3 & H2 were tab'd together.
Reading what you are saying, is that through the jumper, won't H1, H2, H3 & H4 all be connected together?
So I attach the tab back between H2 & H3 and then jump H4 & H1 into (H2,H3)?
Thanks!
I understand what you are saying, but with the link between H2 & H3, as shown in the photo, this is effectively the same thing. Unless I remove the link between H2&H3…No, you have to exactly do it the way I showed it in post #46
If you do not understand this or this is beyond your comprehension and capabilities, then you need to retain a licensed electrician.
Everything you stated is full blown short between two phases.
This tells me that you do not understand the fundamentals involved and you should NOT proceed on your own, but hire a professional before you electrocute yourself to death.
I do not attend funerals. Thank you
Ok, I didn’t add the jumper and I don’t see any “jumper wire” in the cabinet from when the machine was originally wired 220v an removed to convert to 440vThe wiring diagram does not show a jumper between H2 and H3, this is self explanatory and this implies, by using common sense, that any currently installed jumper between H2 and H3 has to be REMOVED.
In the compartment above the terminal output connection is a gray board that you will see on the side 120/208 and 240/440 with a brow pointing at wich connection it is also i recommended that no one trust hz meters till you test with a good multi meters as I have worked on 3 of these and only was even close to rightI have an MEP804B Genset. I have some items at my shop wired for 220v 3PH and some items wired for 440v 3PH. When I need to switch between the outputs I have to open the panel door, remove the 12 nuts on the panel plate and change it's position and rear attach 6 nuts and reassemble the protective plastic plate and so forth each time.
Is there possibly a way that I can wire a switch that I can merely flip/rotate/move to make the output switch between the 220V to 440V easily and quickly?
Thanks
Lot of text to go back through on this thread, The original problem wasn't switching voltage it was the frequency in which he had to do it. The frequency meters are a well known weak point on these sets.In the compartment above the terminal output connection is a gray board that you will see on the side 120/208 and 240/440 with a brow pointing at wich connection it is also i recommended that no one trust hz meters till you test with a good multi meters as I have worked on 3 of these and only was even close to right