Is there an easy way to change output from 220 to 440V on the MEP804B

[peapvp]

Thanks, so you are saying that I need to connect H1 to H3, and H4 to H2 and then I have to go to the head unit and change the wires there so it can run in 220v as well correct?

Thanks!

yes, that's correct, both transformers and motor

 

[Rik]

yes, that's correct, both transformers and motor

Thanks, this seems to be a 5 minute job then.

This will enable me to run more that one machine at a time as the 440>220 setups prevented this.

Thanks again!!

 

[peapvp]

Thanks, this seems to be a 5 minute job then.

This will enable me to run more that one machine at a time as the 440>220 setups prevented this.

Thanks again!!

Make sure to double check the Fuse Ratings, to make sure your electrician left the fuses for 220V configuration in place as you believe he did.

 

[Rik]

Make sure to double check the Fuse Ratings, to make sure your electrician left the fuses for 220V configuration in place as you believe he did.

I checked them when I was originally just trying the wiring by changing the lead arrangement on the head motor.

Thanks!

 

[Rik]

Just to clarify, L1 to L3 and L2 to L4 but no connector between the two?

 

[peapvp]

Just to clarify, L1 to L3 and L2 to L4 but no connector between the two?

Interesting, don’t apply power to the configuration in your pictures

you need to make 2 jumpers for each transformer
One jumper connects H2 and H4 together - connect L2 to H4

the other jumper connects H1 and H3
Together - connect L1 to H1

 

[Rik]

With the 440v setup, L1 went to H1, and L2 went to H4 while H3 & H2 were tab'd together.

Reading what you are saying, is that through the jumper, won't H1, H2, H3 & H4 all be connected together?

So I attach the tab back between H2 & H3 and then jump H4 & H1 into (H2,H3)?

Thanks!

 

[peapvp]

With the 440v setup, L1 went to H1, and L2 went to H4 while H3 & H2 were tab'd together.

Reading what you are saying, is that through the jumper, won't H1, H2, H3 & H4 all be connected together?

So I attach the tab back between H2 & H3 and then jump H4 & H1 into (H2,H3)?

Thanks!

No, you have to exactly do it the way I showed it in post #46
If you do not understand this or this is beyond your comprehension and capabilities, then you need to retain a licensed electrician.

Everything you stated is full blown short between two phases.
This tells me that you do not understand the fundamentals involved and you should NOT proceed on your own, but hire a professional before you electrocute yourself to death.
I do not attend funerals. Thank you

 

[Rik]

No, you have to exactly do it the way I showed it in post #46
If you do not understand this or this is beyond your comprehension and capabilities, then you need to retain a licensed electrician.

Everything you stated is full blown short between two phases.
This tells me that you do not understand the fundamentals involved and you should NOT proceed on your own, but hire a professional before you electrocute yourself to death.
I do not attend funerals. Thank you

I understand what you are saying, but with the link between H2 & H3, as shown in the photo, this is effectively the same thing. Unless I remove the link between H2&H3…

 

[peapvp]

The wiring diagram does not show a jumper between H2 and H3, this is self explanatory and this implies, by using common sense, that any currently installed jumper between H2 and H3 has to be REMOVED.

 

[Triple Jim]

I all fairness, that table is very confusing. The first line says that for 480 you connect H2 and H3, and signifies this with a hyphen between them. The second line for 240 then puts a hyphen between H1H3 and H2H4, seeming to say to connect those pairs together!

Instead it should have:

H1-H3; H2-H4

The simple answer is to connect the two windings in series for 480 and in parallel for 240.

 

[Rik]

The wiring diagram does not show a jumper between H2 and H3, this is self explanatory and this implies, by using common sense, that any currently installed jumper between H2 and H3 has to be REMOVED.

Ok, I didn’t add the jumper and I don’t see any “jumper wire” in the cabinet from when the machine was originally wired 220v an removed to convert to 440v

 

[Rik]

It works, thank you

 

[11986RANGER]

I have an MEP804B Genset. I have some items at my shop wired for 220v 3PH and some items wired for 440v 3PH. When I need to switch between the outputs I have to open the panel door, remove the 12 nuts on the panel plate and change it's position and rear attach 6 nuts and reassemble the protective plastic plate and so forth each time.

Is there possibly a way that I can wire a switch that I can merely flip/rotate/move to make the output switch between the 220V to 440V easily and quickly?


Thanks

In the compartment above the terminal output connection is a gray board that you will see on the side 120/208 and 240/440 with a brow pointing at wich connection it is also i recommended that no one trust hz meters till you test with a good multi meters as I have worked on 3 of these and only was even close to right

 

[Scoobyshep]

In the compartment above the terminal output connection is a gray board that you will see on the side 120/208 and 240/440 with a brow pointing at wich connection it is also i recommended that no one trust hz meters till you test with a good multi meters as I have worked on 3 of these and only was even close to right

Lot of text to go back through on this thread, The original problem wasn't switching voltage it was the frequency in which he had to do it. The frequency meters are a well known weak point on these sets.

 

[11986RANGER]

With out a doubt lucky now there is inexpensive electric ones that do it off the ac voltage i add one to each off the ac panel plug giving you volt and hz making easier to dile in both those meters do not like to be bounced

 

[Guyfang]

So buy a quality DMM and then you can see what is what. Using cheap test equipment gets you cheap results.