• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

It lives!!!

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
I'm so happy I just have to post about it.... I got the first of the two residue trucks that I bought from GL started!!! :jumpin: :jumpin:

It runs great with no strange noises and no smoke from the tailpipes. I'm still sorting out the wiring so I can make sure that the glow plug system and charging systems work, but the engine itself is GREAT.

One down, one to go... LOL

Later,
Joe
 

Attachments

AJMBLAZER

New member
2,688
7
0
Location
Paducah, KY
Wow...is that the running one?


Congrats though. Just took mine for a drive to the Jeep Blessing in Mesick, MI yesterday. Only about 45 minutes away but it was a nice drive and Big Ugly did just fine.
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Yep, it runs like a top. The right fender and door are bent up pretty good so I think it was scrapped for that. I've been working on it all day and I got the alternator belts back on and they both work and charged the batteries back up. Then I tackled the glow plug system and it seems to work fine. I'll know for sure tomorrow morning when I start it cold.

If that's all good, I'll be ready to pull it all out at the end of the month to put it in the one I'm picking up from Barstow in two weeks.

Later,
Joe
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Update:

Got the glow plugs working today. They didn't work at first, the controller would light the 'Wait' light but would not activate the relay. Tried both controller cards and they both did the same thing. After doing some wiring checks and making sure the wires were all good, I finally did a search of the forum and found out that the wiring diagram was wrong. By the diagram, I put the orange monitor wire on the resistor side of the relay and it is supposed to be on the plug side of the relay. After a quick swap, it seems to work fine now, I'll know for sure in a couple of hours once it cools down some.

I also added that information to the FAQ.

Later,
Joe
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
UPDATE:

I finally got the wiring sorted out and for the first time in 6 months I got the engine started in the new body. After some troubleshooting, it even starts with the key...

Left on the "To Do" list before the first drive:
Fix oil leak from oil cooler connection at radiator
Fix fuel leak from filter block
Troubleshoot electrical gremlins in instrument panel
Troubleshoot why Gen 1 isn't charging
Replace transmission pan (GI's punched a hole in it to drain the ATF)
Re-connect fuel gauge wire under truck
Troubleshoot and repair headlight harness
Install exhaust
Bleed brakes
Go over truck once more to make sure I didn't forget anything.

To recap the project, I took two residue parts 1009s and an E-bay 1009 that was stripped of its powertrain and made one functional 1009. I have replaced the ENTIRE wiring from the dash to the front of the truck and replaced the powertrain. The hardest part has been finding a clean headlight harness, and even that one has some minor problems.

I do still need a few parts though if anyone is parting out a CUCV.

If anyone has an instrument cluster, fuel filter block or radiator overflow bottle, please drop me a PM. I just need the drain valve on the bottom of the filter block if anyone has a bad one they'd be willing to pull it from.

Later,
Joe
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Well, it's been 7 more months but I finally got all the bugs out of my 1009 and took it on its first real voyage of about 22 miles. Steering is nice and tight, brakes work (but could use another bleeding) and the engine runs smooth. Pulls nice and hard through all the gears, although the transmission modulator system needs to be adjusted because it shifts way high.

After pulling a couple of hills the little bit of smoke died off as the cylinders got nice and hot and the seals got lubed up again. I thought I was going to have to do a water pump because it started leaking after the first time I pulled the hill coming to my house, but after a few minutes it stopped and hasn't dripped since (and it has plenty of antifreeze).

The master cylinder I got from Vatozone ended up being bad, it blew an o-ring and the brakes refused to bleed. After I replaced that, it's been happy since.

Had to buy a brand new headlight harness off of Ebay... I just couldn't get all the lights working with the one I had, so I will work that one over as a spare for my next project while it's on the ground instead of in a truck.

Had to build an instrument cluster from three... finally got all the bulb sockets happy and working. Everything is happy now except the VM light... I'll get that fixed eventually... LOL

There's only a short list left now...
Bleed brakes again
Adjust tranny linkage so it'll go reliably into Park
Put inspection cover back on tranny
Change oil (has cheap 10W30 in it to clean out any debris left from it sitting with no oil cap during the engine's residue yard time)
Change tranny oil and pan (still has a hole with a rag stuck in it but I figured I'd let it circulate and clean the passages out before I swapped it so the tranny would be clean)
Top off transfer case (ran out of fluid with 2 quarts to go)

Hoping to drive it in the Highlands Ranch 4th of July parade on Sat so I'll most likely have pics then.

Later,
Joe
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks