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It says 65hz

Razerface

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I got an 003a the other day. When running the hz meter goes to 65, or pegs to the right. The voltage is ok by my voltmeter, and the meter on the unit. How do I determine if the hz gauge is bad, or if it is running incorrect hz?
 

Triple Jim

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The meter will swing pretty wildly if you're not near 60 Hz. My guess is that the engine is running too slow, but it's possible it's really running too fast as the meter indicates. You can get an inexpensive "Kill-a-Watt" meter and plug it in to the generator output to check frequency. If you have an old analog clock that has a real motor running it, you can run that for a few minutes and compare to a quartz watch (for example).

Use the governor adjustment knob under the control panel to adjust the engine speed and see if you can get the meter to read 60 Hz.
 

Razerface

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You can get an inexpensive "Kill-a-Watt" meter and plug it in to the generator output to check frequency.

Use the governor adjustment knob under the control panel to adjust the engine speed and see if you can get the meter to read 60 Hz.
thanks! I own a kill a watt,,,but forgot about it. I tried the adjusting knob right away, but could not change the meter, even though the rpms were changing.

I dont know know if this affects the problem,,,but when I bought it, the battery cables were on backwards,,, positive and negative were reversed from where they should have been.
 

Floridianson

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Is there a Hz adjustment knob? If so adjust it.
Mine had no HZ but had Voltage adjust knob. Sometimes mine even when I shut it down under correct running rpm the next time I fired it up it pegged the gage and I had to use throttle control to bring up the rpm again to get the Hz back down and correct. Also not real bad but when under load HZ were set correct and when no load they were higher so I added load then correct HZ. When no load I just left the HZ run a little higher on scale and when load came in they were just about correct. As said you might need to raise the rpm when first starting the Gen. and after awhile you will get to know buy the sound of the rpm if it needs to come up.
 

Ray70

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Sounds to me like your frequency transducer has given up on you. I think the most common failure mode is that it will peg the gage high when it goes bad.
If you're lowering your RPM's and the needle stays pegged you can pretty much bet its all done. If you want to rule out everything else, take the AC in wires off the transducer and attached a line cord and plug it into utility power, the gage should read around 59-60 hz. if its still reading 65 throw it away, its all done.
The transducer is the black square box mounted to the rear panel inside the control cubicle, just left of center. Should say Frequency Transducer right on the end of it.
 

Razerface

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The transducer is the black square box mounted to the rear panel inside the control cubicle, just left of center. Should say Frequency Transducer right on the end of it.
Is that the same as "frequency converter" p/n 72-5019 in the TM?

Gonna test using your method, thanks.
 

Razerface

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Well, it looks like i can replace the meter and the transducer with a new digital one for 50 bucks, so i think i will do that. I will still do the tests first for the experience, and to determine what the real problem is.

looks like the original parts are more expensive.
 

Razerface

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I got the muffler welded up, solenoid installed, so got to start it and play some more.

I couldnt plug the kill a watt directly into the 120 outlets because the lids get in the way. I put a 50 ft extension cord in it and pluged the kill a watt into it. Will the cord throw the hz reading off? Sure sounded like i had to make it run awful fast to get 60hz
 

Ray70

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Well, the good news is it sounds like your generator is working fine, just you transducer is shot. I'd say that if the kill-a watt says 60, you're at 1800 RPM, not much chance you're over-revving it...
Now its up to you to either stay with just a kill-a-watt, get an alternative gage setup ( such as Jim's digital ones....) or, god forbid... replace the transducer with another questionable one ( if you can find a reasonably priced used one )
Either way its a good sign that at least the machine is working correctly!
 

Chainbreaker

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I couldnt plug the kill a watt directly into the 120 outlets because the lids get in the way. I put a 50 ft extension cord in it and pluged the kill a watt into it.
Length doesn't matter and whenever on back-up emergency power I always monitor the Hz reading using a Kill-A-Watt by plugging in to house outlet. For convenience sake when verifying Hz readings (adjusting RPM) at your unit you should consider obtaining a package of the short 1' extension cords designed to be used with wall-warts etc. Amazon has a lot to choose from and they are also nifty to have on hand when you discover the next device you plug into a power strip blocks adjacent outlets due to the plug-in transformer.

Reference: http://www.amazon.com/1-Foot-Extens...435766257&sr=8-2&keywords=wall+wart+extension
 

SCSG-G4

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I purchased packs of three nine inch extension cords locally for about two bucks last year - can't remember where. Probably Lowes, Home Depot or WalMart.
 

Razerface

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I installed jims digital gage. It is working great so it was the transducer i think.

My kill a watts is about .5 different then the gage. I suppose i will put the original gage on my 002a to verify it is still good when i get time,,,,

thanks for the help guys.

i am 1 hour into my first dry run. The house is running on the 003a right now. I got it up to 120% for about 10 minutes running the electric stove, dryer, most of my lights, clocks, network, well pump, lights in barn, and other stuff that i forget is plugged in,,,,all good so far.

forgot, running my geo thermal airconditioner too.
 
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