Just blew the rear in my '86 m1009

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Wolfie

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Apparently the tires were too big for the little rear. Spyder gears are trashed, and I wasn't even off-roading it, anyone know a good cheap parts place?
 

ragedracer

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RE: Just blew the rear in my

I did the same in my civy blazer. Too big tires...

I bought new gears from Randy's ring and pinion. http://www.ringpinion.com/

At the time, they had great prices, and stellar customer service. This was over 10 years ago, but they're still around, so they must be doing something right!

Good luck!

rr
 

CCATLETT1984

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RE: Just blew the rear in my

go on your local craigslist, finding a 10bolt rear will be easy. if your ring and pinion gears are still good you could even swap them over to the new carrier.

FYI, this is the reason they calll the locker in the 10bolt the "gov-bomb"
 

steelsoldiers

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Re: RE: Just blew the rear in my

CCATLETT1984 said:
FYI, this is the reason they calll the locker in the 10bolt the "gov-bomb"
Or the Gov-Pop! I blew the spiders in mine years ago wheeling it hard with 33" Swampers on it. I put a Auburn HD Limited Slip in it instead. Couldn't afford the Detroit at the time.
 

Elwenil

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RE: Re: RE: Just blew the rear in my

I have used an Auburn High Performance limited slip differential and was pretty happy with it. Worked similar to a factory limited slip, but was a bit tighter and it didn't break. If you are interested in a Detroit, we sell them for $574.99 + shipping for the 10 bolt.
 

Wolfie

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RE: Re: RE: Just blew the rear in my

I'm not sure how bad the damage is yet, they are still tearing it apart to see...hopefully I won't need the whole thing *crunch*
 

gt1009

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just curious, how big were your tires? I was gonna put 35s on mine soon but may not. I don't wheel it too hard, so I might be ok?
 

84cucv1ton

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35" tires and a sm465 lasted about 30min in the woods. i just scraped a pile of them. pile of busted shafts too.

a friend got a set of 3/4 ton axles from a 74 chevy p/u. had a 14ff. both complete 400 bucks. pretty sure that a fair price. might be a good way to go
 

1stDeuce

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Whatever you do, don't spend money to fix that 10 bolt if you plan to keep the truck!
Unless you really want it original, change the rear axle to a 12 bolt or 9.5" 14 bolt.

The 12 bolt came in 1/2 ton trucks up to about 1980 or 81. It has an 8.875" ring gear compared to the 10 bolt's 8.5, but the carrier, housing, and shafts are heavier. An axle from any 4wd 1/2 ton truck, blazer, or suburban from 1973 to 1981 will bolt right in, same spring pads, axle width, 6-bolt pattern, U-joint, etc. Just need 3.07 gears, which are pretty common. You get slightly bigger brakes too, which is nice!

A 6-lug 9.5" ring gear 14 bolt came in the rear of 88 and up light 3/4 ton trucks (7200lb GVW) as well as some 1/2 tons with the HD rear axle option. It's much much heavier, and from those vintage trucks will widen the rear track to better match the front on your blazer. You will have to weld on new spring perches though, and probably shock mounts. You'll need a conversion U-joint too, but they're cheap. I think about the same size brakes as the 12 bolt.

Stop by a nice mom and pop dirty auto repair joint and ask about junkyards or recyclers that deal in older cars... They usually don't advertise much, but the price is right if you can find them, particularly true of recyclers. Most times they'll even torch the U-bolts and shocks for you so you can just drag it home and bolt it in. I'd pull the cover and have a look as soon as you get home. If it's bad, take it back and exchange for a different one!

Good luck!
Chris
 

steelsoldiers

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Depending on what your plans are for the truck, I would agree that 3/4 ton running gear is the easiest and cheapest way to go. I have a 14-bolt FF in my shed with an open carrier that I got from a K20 at the Pull-a-part for $75 6 years ago. It was going in the Blazer and then I sold it. The spring pads are the same distance apart. You can convert your 10-bolt front to 8-lug with some parts from a 3/4-ton front end or just buy a complete set of axles as suggested above. There's not a huge strength difference between the 8-lug 10-bolt and the 8-lug D44. If you are going to run bigger than 35" tires, then I would advise leaving the front diff unlocked. That is unless you like changing axle-shafts and hubs out. I would step up to a D60 for bigger than 35" tires and a locker. Look for a M1008 residue truck on GL. You'll have to move the spring pads front and rear, but you'll have 4.56 gears and a Detroit in the rear. Just add a Detroit or a selectable locker in the D60 and you'll be ready for the Sawzall and a set of 40"s :D
 

CCATLETT1984

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steelsoldiers said:
There's not a huge strength difference between the 8-lug 10-bolt and the 8-lug D44.
The d44 and the 10bolt are basically identical, the d44 HD is a bit stronger but not much. to swap to 8lugs all you need to do is swap the hubs over (maybe backing plates).
 

Recovry4x4

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Chris, what gears do you have in the 14 bolt FF? Here's the skinny on converting a front from 1/2 to 3/4 ton. If you are converting a Dana 44 you will need backing plates, spindles and rotor/hub assys. If it's a 10 bolt, you won't need the spindles, just the backing plates and hub/rotor assy. Dana 44 backing plates will work just fine but they have just a caliper mount and dust shield where the 10 bolts have a full backing plate. Oh yeah, the 10 bolt axles are .0100 bigger IIRC.
 
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