Just got a M37, took some photos. Love any advice/pointers!

spctravis

New member
4
8
3
Location
Idaho
It was an old firetruck. The cab is OD but the rest is still the firetruck red. I have a light bar and siren that it came with. I am attaching pictures.Picture8.jpg Would love to hear feedback on how to start. Current plan is to replace the crumbling wiring, then the wheels and tires.
 

Attachments

foxtrk2

Member
153
5
18
Location
foxboro ma
as an owner of one id advise all wireing, complete brake job including all lines and cylinders, and fuel lines wouldn't hurt also . I did mine when I got it and for ten years now runs perfect with nothing more than routine maint.
 

fasttruck

Well-known member
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Location
Mesa, AZ
Post 3 is the straight skinny. Lube everything. Grease is cheap parts are expensive. Be guided accordingly. Hope the chain draped over the axle didn't crimp the brake line that runs there. If you read the operator's manual you would know there are anchor points on the chassis that will prevent this which brings up the subject of the pubs: don't make a move without an operators' manual, organizational maintenance manual and a lubrication order. These are available on paper at swap meets and in digital format on line. During the Korean period some of these pubs were combined in one book, later it was TM 9-2320-212-10,20, 20p and LO. Depending on how aggressive the fire department's maintenance program was you might find lack of lubrication as "we don't use it very often" or "It will look bad at musters and wet downs." And when nlubricating; besides the grease gun points don't forget the oil can stuff: door latches and hinges, throttle linkage etc.
 

Karl kostman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Fargo ND
Congrats on the M37 acquisition they are good pickup, simple, easy to work on pretty reliable if maintenance is kept up on! Depending on what you know about this trucks history something I do to all my trucks when I get them is to drain all lubricants including diffs, trans and transfer case, look at the coolant and depending on its appearance you can decide? Then I would go over the drive line checking all the U-Joints and if they look good then give everything a good shot of grease and I strongly suggest you get a set of TMs for the truck they are absolutely full of wonderful information! If the truck is starting good and idling good I would leave the ignition and carb as is. You do have some leaks underneath I would clean up those areas at least to the point that as you drive the truck you can see any new oil drips etc, then you can decide if they are serious enough to tackle and fix. As was mentioned above the other areas your going to want to look at are going to be the fuel system including sending unit, fuel lines and fuel pump and filter. A lot of these trucks had electric pumps installed in them when the factory pump went bad, the electrics work very well. Fuel lines you need to know condition since they are all steel and rust can be a big issue. If the fuel gauge works your sending unit is good but keep an eye on your fuel filter for bad sediment from the fuel tank, it may have to be cleaned and possibly relined?
Good luck and Congrats once again!
Karl
 

fasttruck

Well-known member
1,206
444
83
Location
Mesa, AZ
This truck may have the fuel filter in the gas tank as I do not see one under the voltage regulator on the driver's side of the fire wall. There is a plate that can be removed in the cargo body floor to determine if this is so. If the truck sat a long time and water accumulated the thye bottom of the fuel tank these things can be a problem. I have a 1951 M37 and the fuel filter for that year was on the firewall.
 

spctravis

New member
4
8
3
Location
Idaho
Post 3 is the straight skinny. Lube everything. Grease is cheap parts are expensive. Be guided accordingly. Hope the chain draped over the axle didn't crimp the brake line that runs there. If you read the operator's manual you would know there are anchor points on the chassis that will prevent this which brings up the subject of the pubs: don't make a move without an operators' manual, organizational maintenance manual and a lubrication order. These are available on paper at swap meets and in digital format on line. During the Korean period some of these pubs were combined in one book, later it was TM 9-2320-212-10,20, 20p and LO. Depending on how aggressive the fire department's maintenance program was you might find lack of lubrication as "we don't use it very often" or "It will look bad at musters and wet downs." And when nlubricating; besides the grease gun points don't forget the oil can stuff: door latches and hinges, throttle linkage etc.
Wow great advise. Just ordered the TM 10,20 off ebay.
 

spctravis

New member
4
8
3
Location
Idaho
This truck may have the fuel filter in the gas tank as I do not see one under the voltage regulator on the driver's side of the fire wall. There is a plate that can be removed in the cargo body floor to determine if this is so. If the truck sat a long time and water accumulated the thye bottom of the fuel tank these things can be a problem. I have a 1951 M37 and the fuel filter for that year was on the firewall.
Someone put in a new fuel pump with filter bypassing the old one. That seems to be the only modification I can find so far.
 

fasttruck

Well-known member
1,206
444
83
Location
Mesa, AZ
Reference post 14: the fuel filter that was bypassed is on the firewall on the driver's side of the truck ? If this new filter has been replaced and the truck spits and sputters check for a filter in the tank.
 

mdainsd

Member
193
14
18
Location
San Diego, CA
Looking at the engine compartment picture, it looks as though someone has replaced the factory generator with what looks to be a commercial alternator. This will need figuring out as there were probably modifications made to the stock wiring harnesses, now hidden under tape...
Youll want to have this figured before installing a new wiring harness and switching on.
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Interlachen Fl.
Looking good and glad to see another member joining the M37 club. I just joined this past month. Already spending money on just a couple of little things that were needed on mine.
 

Saberr

Active member
178
75
28
Location
Temecula,Ca
Good starting point. Looks prettty solid, and complete. Parts are also easy to get. Some quality of life upgrades would be electronic ignition (pertronix) they make one for m37, about 20 min swap. Electric fuel pump with own toggle, dual reservoir brake cylinder (60s gm truck), Tear old insulation out roof and line with new hvac plastic/foil insulation. Stovebolt also makes as dual barrel carb if you want more power/mpg, but loose fording capability. And also composit lights make great for turn signal, and to keep blackouts. Also can install m151 water heater under passenger glove box super easily and its great help.
 
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