Just won an auction - M1088A1

[dwlindsey]

Fleetpride or any other Meritor dealer. Part numbers are in the -24P TM

There are 87 mentions of seal in that TM and I'm not smart enough to figure out which part number I need

OK, I got it. I was in 24P-2 and the info I need is in 24P-1

Ordered at Big Mike's Motor Pool

Thanks VERY much for the help and please excuse my momentary stupidity. I am learning, slowly . . .

 

[dwlindsey]

Tires leaking air - I've got two "new" 2023 tires mounted on the front. The CTIS valves definitely leak, new CTIS assemblies are supposed to arrive today.

Meanwhile . . . without the CTIS mounted, with only the tire valve stem with valve core inserted, both tires are leaking slowly. Down from 50 PSI to 10 PSI in 5 days.

What might I have done wrong in the assembly and inflation of these tires? They both have new O-Rings and Valve Stems.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Soapy water?

Did you use lube for the beads and the o-rings?

 

[dwlindsey]

Soapy water?

Did you use lube for the beads and the o-rings?

I did not use lube. What lube should I use?
On one of the tires, soapy water shows a leak around the valve stem. Did I break the stem? Or the rubber seal on the wheel is not down tight enough? I'll obviously need to take that tire apart

I just ordered Dow Corning Molykote 111 - hope that's the right lube

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Dow 111 is amazing stuff and you should have a tube anyway. But it's not right for this application. This is what I landed on and have used on all my tire installs with zero issues:

https://a.co/d/7yVRRgk

 

[dwlindsey]

I've now got three tires assembled with CTIS assemblies and they are holding air.

My first attempt at doing brake service, drivers side intermediate axle, was frustrating, one of the adjusters was frozen in an extended position, so the brake shoe wouldn't release the drum. I finally freed it up and got it to release.

The first brake canister I took off fought me, hard. Despite multiple applications of penetrating oil the lock nut would not come loose. I spent more than an hour trying to get it loose. I finally resorted to cycles of heating with a heat gun and applyng penetrating oil. The oil started wicking into the gap and threads. After 5 minutes of this, the lock nut loosened.

I applied the same heat and penetrating oil proceedure to the next 3 cannisters and they came off quickly and easily. Rust and green paint were the culprits, I believe.

The brakes were full of sand and the grease dried out, adjusters working badly or not at all. I doubt the brakes had ever been serviced and the truck must have been into mud and sand up to the axles.

The brakes were working badly, but I'm surprised they were working at all. The brake shoes look fine, but the mechanisms were not working well at all.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Yep. Found much of the same on my truck. Lots of sand (Kuwait, and El-Paso), lots of rust, dried up grease, and bad dust seals. Never serviced - and on a 2008 with 2k miles.

Replace the canister diaphragms if you haven't.

FMTV brake canister diaphragm replacement.

I've seen a few questions posted about replacement canisters - which are a bit difficult to find and expensive on the surplus side. I recently replaced the diaphragm's in all of mine and other than dealing with the paint on the clamp bolt threads it's an extremely easy process. On my 2008 A1R...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[dwlindsey]

Painted brake adjusters

Now I know why the brake adjusters were not working. Some idiot painted them with GREEN PAINT!

The original color of the brake drums was Green, then there's a layer of Beige, then a last layer of GREEN and at least one of the adjusters was painted into position with the GREEN!

 

[dwlindsey]

Difficult Brake Spring

This is my first brake service, so please continue to be patient with me.

I'm having a LOT of trouble getting the brake springs on. I've got the adjusters retracted all the way and I can't get the brake spring on. I can *almost* stretch it to the right length, but I can't *quite* get it in.

Is it possible that my 24 year old rusty brake springs are too stiff? Would new brake return springs help?

Is there a special tool for the LMTV brakes that I should have and don't?

I'll be grateful for any pointers I can get!

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Put the springs on the shoes, hook one shoe on the backing plate and then use the other shoe to pull the spring like it's a T handle. A pry-bar for additional leverage on the shoe is useful.

 

[dwlindsey]

Put the springs on the shoes, hook one shoe on the backing plate and then use the other shoe to pull the spring like it's a T handle. A pry-bar for additional leverage on the shoe is useful.

Thanks! I'll try that

 

[dwlindsey]

OK, I've learned how to do the brake return springs. I have two methods now, one using a steel rod in the target hole and a bar to push the spring in. . . . and a brake spring plier arrived today from Amazon:

OTC 7069A Heavy-Duty Brake Spring Pliers for Trucks, Buses, Trailers, and More

This morning I succeeded in doing the springs on one brake using the steel rod. Then the brake spring pliers arrived and that works a little easier than the rod, but both methods are OK.

After I got the drums on and the adjusters adjusted, I painted some 2 part black primer. Another pass with primer in the morning, then brake hoses and mount the tires

 

[Ronmar]

I have always used a large screwdriver with a notch in the end of the blade… the first time I ever used a set of spring pliers was a genuine “holy shit that was easy” moment

 

[dwlindsey]

I've now got 4 tires mounted, the two up front and two at the rear. I've done two rear brakes. While the tires were off, I painted behind them with a 2 part black primer.

Two more tires to do and 4 more brakes.


I'll work more on the brakes and tires later in the week. It's time for some work that's just a little less athletic.

Tomorrow I'll back the truck out of the garage, raise the cab with the new hand pump (Thanks Ronmar).

I'll try to finish removing the spare tire lift, get the cab lock working and change the engine oil. I'll add fluorescent dye to the engine oil, as suggested by the General.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Cool thread. Keep it up!

 

[dwlindsey]

I've now got 4 tires mounted, the two up front and two at the rear. I've done two rear brakes. While the tires were off, I painted behind them with a 2 part black primer.

Two more tires to do and 4 more brakes.

View attachment 945572
I'll work more on the brakes and tires later in the week. It's time for some work that's just a little less athletic.

Tomorrow I'll back the truck out of the garage, raise the cab with the new hand pump (Thanks Ronmar).

I'll try to finish removing the spare tire lift, get the cab lock working and change the engine oil. I'll add fluorescent dye to the engine oil, as suggested by the General.

Well . . . that didn't go well.

As I was backing out of the garage, the rear drivers side wheel locked up.

I had adjusted the lower brake shoe to spec, double and triple checked it. Today when I looked at it, the adjuster was all the way out and the lower brake shoe pressed hard against the drum.

I couldn't adjust it, it was locked up solid.

So I caged the canisters on that brake, took the one can off and removed the adjuster.

My current theory is that this one adjuster is damaged. It may have been damaged before I got the truck, or I may have damaged it getting the brake apart. I did have to literally hammer on it to get one of them loose, probably this one.

I've ordered new A2297V536 SCREW BRK SHOE ADJUSTING. I obtained the part number from TM 24P-1 and I learned how to find that here in this thread. You guys are great, I appreciate the help.

The truck is a garage queen for the next few days until the new adjusting screws arrive.

 

[Ronmar]

The shoes have a perch and an actuator end. If the shoes are ever put on backwards, it can damage the adjusters...

 

[dwlindsey]

The shoes have a perch and an actuator end. If the shoes are ever put on backwards, it can damage the adjusters...

I'm aware of this, however one shoe was put on incorrectly a few days ago. I did correct it, but it's possible that's when it was damaged

 

[Ronmar]

I'm aware of this, however one shoe was put on incorrectly a few days ago. I did correct it, but it's possible that's when it was damaged

If it was applied, yep. When I got mine from auction it pulled horribly and brakes were marginal moving it on and off the trailer. 3 of the 4 front shoes were installed backwards... It tries to throw you thru the windshield now...

 

[dwlindsey]

If it was applied, yep. When I got mine from auction it pulled horribly and brakes were marginal moving it on and off the trailer. 3 of the 4 front shoes were installed backwards... It tries to throw you thru the windshield now...

The brake was caged when I had the shoe on backward. The springs were on, but there was no park brake or service brake applied before I corrected it.

As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I had trouble removing the brake drum on the first brake I tried to service. The lower shoe was FIRMLY against the drum and I had to use a hammer and screwdriver to loosen the adjuster enough to get the drum off. I didn't notice if the shoes were on correctly when I finally got them off.

The brakes were not working well when I got the truck, full of sand and badly adjusted.

In any case, I had the shoe adjusted with the right gap yesterday. Today when backing out my son described "roll . .. skid . . . roll . .. hop . . . skid." All of this in about 10 feet. I think the adjuster *adjusted* to fully out and locked up, in 10 feet.

The minimum order for the new adjusting screws was 4 pieces . . . so I'll have some for the passenger side brakes when I get to them, if needed.