goldneagle
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I agree, it could be something as simple as brushes. Motor will not run if brushes do not make contact with the rotor.
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Just won Hyster E40XL-MIL on GL
- Thread starter pclausen
- Start date
Ok, I will see if I can remove the commutator cover. It that the curved piece that is riveted onto the motor case, or is it the rear motor cover itself?
I suspect that the motor will swivel up on its hinge without disconnecting the hydraulic lines. So I'll try that and see if the rear cover can be removed.
Thanks!
I suspect that the motor will swivel up on its hinge without disconnecting the hydraulic lines. So I'll try that and see if the rear cover can be removed.
Thanks!
liftman
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It's the end where your positive meter lead is in the above photo. There should be some type of screw arrangement holding the 2 band section together on the side we can't see.
Gotcha! Yep, there was a single screw holding the 2 band sections together. After removing the screw, I popped the top section of:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-01.JPG
A close-up showing the brushes which appear to have plenty of life left in them:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-02.JPG
I loosened the screw holding the wires for this set of brushes and pulled them out:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-03.JPG
I ran a moist rag over over them followed by a dry one and then put them back in.
It wasn't really possible to get to the other 3 sets of brushes, although I was able to wiggle the lower set visible in the first photo above. Just for grins, I figured I'd try to see if the lift motor would work, and it did! I tested lift, tilt and side shift, and everything is working perfectly now! I like how easy it is to feather the controls. When pulling back all the way on the lift level, the speed at which it raises is amazing. Almost hit my shop door once the 2nd section kicked in.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-04.JPG
The battery also appears to be in great shape. When I got it stuck the other day, I spent 20 minutes going forward and backwards and turning a lot and the battery gauge just barely moved away from the "full" mark. Topping the battery off now and the charger indicated 78% when I started.
Again, I really appreciate all the help and advice! This Hyster appears to be a winner.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-01.JPG
A close-up showing the brushes which appear to have plenty of life left in them:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-02.JPG
I loosened the screw holding the wires for this set of brushes and pulled them out:
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-03.JPG
I ran a moist rag over over them followed by a dry one and then put them back in.
It wasn't really possible to get to the other 3 sets of brushes, although I was able to wiggle the lower set visible in the first photo above. Just for grins, I figured I'd try to see if the lift motor would work, and it did! I tested lift, tilt and side shift, and everything is working perfectly now! I like how easy it is to feather the controls. When pulling back all the way on the lift level, the speed at which it raises is amazing. Almost hit my shop door once the 2nd section kicked in.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-04.JPG
The battery also appears to be in great shape. When I got it stuck the other day, I spent 20 minutes going forward and backwards and turning a lot and the battery gauge just barely moved away from the "full" mark. Topping the battery off now and the charger indicated 78% when I started.
Again, I really appreciate all the help and advice! This Hyster appears to be a winner.
Wow looks great man! Glad to hear it is all working now. All ya have to do is procure a charger for it and your good to go sounds like pretty much nothing wrong with you machine which is great. Take a video of the lift and side shift and fwd back would be cool to see it in action.
Lee
Lee
liftman
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Keep an eye on the lift motor. If it starts to shoot sparks when running, replace the brushes and stone the armature flat. The brush you showed removed in your picture seems to be pretty rough. A set of brushes is cheap insurance to protect the motor. Good luck!
There were a few sparks right when I first started it, but after about 15 seconds of running, you had to look read hard to see any. I'll keep an eye on it.
I cleaned up the motors and surrounding areas with a rag before re-installing the battery. It looks a lot better now.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-06.JPG
I turned the battery back 90 degrees. The trick was to use a 6x6 between the forks, raise it slightly off the ground, and voila, it turned 90 degrees.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-05.jpg
Dropping the battery back in was a tricky affair with fractions of an inch of clearance everywhere.
Drove it out on the apron and was able to raise it up all the way. It goes quit high!
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-07.JPG
I took a crappy cell phone movie from the operator's seat. I'll see about getting the wife to hold the phone to do a better one later once everything dries up from all this rain we're been having for the last several days.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hysteraction1.mp4
I cleaned up the motors and surrounding areas with a rag before re-installing the battery. It looks a lot better now.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-06.JPG
I turned the battery back 90 degrees. The trick was to use a 6x6 between the forks, raise it slightly off the ground, and voila, it turned 90 degrees.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-05.jpg
Dropping the battery back in was a tricky affair with fractions of an inch of clearance everywhere.
Drove it out on the apron and was able to raise it up all the way. It goes quit high!
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-13-07.JPG
I took a crappy cell phone movie from the operator's seat. I'll see about getting the wife to hold the phone to do a better one later once everything dries up from all this rain we're been having for the last several days.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hysteraction1.mp4
Isaac-1
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- SW, Louisiana
Looks like you did good, now to just keep an eye out for a cheap 36 volt charger nearby.
Ike
Ike
unclebeau
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Just think, you were ready to throw in the towel!, now you have a cool shop tool (toy)![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
Enjoy!
Enjoy!Yup. Glad I stayed the course!
I worked it over some tonight with a wire brush wheel to knock the rust and loose paint off. Plan to give it a couple of coats of Caterpillar Yellow, which was the closest match I could find locally.
I purposely left the forks 20" off the ground the other day and when I measured it tonight, it was still at exactly 20", so no leaks anywhere in the main lift cylinder circuit.
I worked it over some tonight with a wire brush wheel to knock the rust and loose paint off. Plan to give it a couple of coats of Caterpillar Yellow, which was the closest match I could find locally.
I purposely left the forks 20" off the ground the other day and when I measured it tonight, it was still at exactly 20", so no leaks anywhere in the main lift cylinder circuit.
Got the first coat of yellow on. After testing with a rattle can on the back, I decided that the unevenness from all the spots where the pain had peeled off and surface rust had been wire brushed off, it made more sense to use a brush so that I could apply a nice thick coat. So I picked up a gallon of tractor & implement paint from Tractor Supply. Turned out pretty good I think. Still got a lot of trim to do and I'll need to pull the battery out again to get that area. I did use the rattle can on the from wheels due to all the shapes and angels.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-18-01.JPG
On the "dash" I was trying to decide between masking or pulling the gauges/switches, and ended up doing the latter.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-18-02.JPG
I'll probably do some light sanding before the 2nd coat.
Not quite sure how to do the mast yet. It is a mess with all the oil and grease. Maybe I'll just do the outside surfaces.
I did remove the "guard" from the front to allow easier prep and paint, but before doing that, I'd like to the it straightened out. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment to do it myself, so I was wondering where to take it and what I should expect to pay to get it made all square again? Any ideas?
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-18-03.JPG
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-18-01.JPG
On the "dash" I was trying to decide between masking or pulling the gauges/switches, and ended up doing the latter.
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-18-02.JPG
I'll probably do some light sanding before the 2nd coat.
Not quite sure how to do the mast yet. It is a mess with all the oil and grease. Maybe I'll just do the outside surfaces.
I did remove the "guard" from the front to allow easier prep and paint, but before doing that, I'd like to the it straightened out. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment to do it myself, so I was wondering where to take it and what I should expect to pay to get it made all square again? Any ideas?
http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hyster-10-18-03.JPG
Last edited:
Isaac-1
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I would not worry too much about the guard, it will just get dinged again, that is just the nature of fork lifts. In another note, a lot of places have started painting their forks bright colors for anti trip safety, neon pink seems to be popular since yellow, red, etc. is already commonly found on floor markings.