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Leaking soft top

TheMusicMan

New member
10
2
3
Location
North Carolina
I have a 1097A2 with a 4man soft top conversion on it. Now the top is new and looks new. Problem is water pools up and eventually comes through. Now I placed some boards under the bows to help with this issue. But I also have a leak at the top where it meets the windshield on the drivers side and it will poor in from there. It almost looks like it is coming from either the top of the windshield or that very front part where the top slides into that groove. So much comes in at once when it happens I can’t tell the exact origin. (It is dry at first but pours in If I move the vehicle basically when something causes the water to move) have no idea what to do about this one. Top was installed by the company I purchased the humvee from. Maybe a cheap top maybe a common issue I really don’t know. The top doesn’t look cheap but I understand looks can be deceiving. Any advise/ suggestions and so on would be greatly appreciated.
 

Jsmith1529

Member
33
10
8
Location
Richmond, VA
I have a M998 with a 4 man soft top that is newer. Just like any convertible soft tops are leaky. I had the same problem on my 85 CJ7.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
 

TheMusicMan

New member
10
2
3
Location
North Carolina
Thanks, I appreciate the reply. I will definitely need to check the seal and see if that is the issue. It’s a project and before I do any interior upgrades I want to make sure I get it a little more water tight than it is.
 

Action

Well-known member
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Location
East Tennessee
Thanks, I appreciate the reply. I will definitely need to check the seal and see if that is the issue. It’s a project and before I do any interior upgrades I want to make sure I get it a little more water tight than it is.
With the top off, it is also a good time to replace the seals between the windshield frame and body. Water coming in there can make the windows fog easier.
 

papakb

Well-known member
2,288
1,186
113
Location
San Jose, Ca
Pull both of your windshields and use some silicon sealer to seal them up. It's not uncommon for water to run around the gasket that holds the glass and the frame. M series vehicles were known for it. As for your vinyl top, just seal the seams with a good tent seam sealer. They're going to leak at the velcro between the crew top and the cargo cover unless your going to put it in the garage. That ones inevitable.
 

TheMusicMan

New member
10
2
3
Location
North Carolina
With the top off, it is also a good time to replace the seals between the windshield frame and body. Water coming in there can make the windows fog easier.
Thanks again, this is great info. I am new to owning a humvee and still learning so I am not sure what to check all of the time. Weather is supposed to be nice this week so I will pull everything off and see how it all looks.
 

TheMusicMan

New member
10
2
3
Location
North Carolina
Pull both of your windshields and use some silicon sealer to seal them up. It's not uncommon for water to run around the gasket that holds the glass and the frame. M series vehicles were known for it. As for your vinyl top, just seal the seams with a good tent seam sealer. They're going to leak at the velcro between the crew top and the cargo cover unless your going to put it in the garage. That ones inevitable.
Thanks for the reply, and I will definitely look into doing that. I am pulling the top off this week as the weather here is supposed to be good which will be a good time to look over all of the seals and see what needs to be replaced and where sealer needs to be applied.
 

Action

Well-known member
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1,551
113
Location
East Tennessee
Flip the top over onto the hood to remove or install it into the former. It should slide easily. If not, the channel have be squished together at some point. Soapy water may help the install if you have difficulty. It is easier to install with 2 people. One to pull it and the other to guide it into the channel. It can be done by one person but may need to go back and forth.
You will probably have rusty screws holding the channel on top. Do NOT use stainless when you put it back together.
Id you have a 4-man top, just remove the 2 screws holding the handrails to the windshield frame. Possibly support the front bow with piece of wood or strap to ceiling. If you have a 2-man, go ahead and remove the handrails and bow
As for the windshield frame, just pull the 2 inside pins and fold the whole thing forward. May as well clean the wiper contacts in the middle, too. You can loosen the hinge bolts on the inside if you need slack for the pins.
 

Action

Well-known member
3,581
1,551
113
Location
East Tennessee
And, it won't hurt to order new seals and screws before you start the job. The seal on top is flat with a round squishy part on the back edge.
 

TheMusicMan

New member
10
2
3
Location
North Carolina
Flip the top over onto the hood to remove or install it into the former. It should slide easily. If not, the channel have be squished together at some point. Soapy water may help the install if you have difficulty. It is easier to install with 2 people. One to pull it and the other to guide it into the channel. It can be done by one person but may need to go back and forth.
You will probably have rusty screws holding the channel on top. Do NOT use stainless when you put it back together.
Id you have a 4-man top, just remove the 2 screws holding the handrails to the windshield frame. Possibly support the front bow with piece of wood or strap to ceiling. If you have a 2-man, go ahead and remove the handrails and bow
As for the windshield frame, just pull the 2 inside pins and fold the whole thing forward. May as well clean the wiper contacts in the middle, too. You can loosen the hinge bolts on the inside if you need slack for the pins.
Thanks again, this is great. I can tie the seals and stuff into the order I am getting ready to make so i can get them all at once. I’ll look over everything but may just replace them all anyways. Based on some of the other stuff I have replaced they are probably indeed dried out and cracked. I had to replace all of the fuel return lines already as it was leaking diesel from all of them.
 

Action

Well-known member
3,581
1,551
113
Location
East Tennessee
Thanks again, this is great. I can tie the seals and stuff into the order I am getting ready to make so i can get them all at once. I’ll look over everything but may just replace them all anyways. Based on some of the other stuff I have replaced they are probably indeed dried out and cracked. I had to replace all of the fuel return lines already as it was leaking diesel from all of them.
make sure you get fuel lines rated for diesel. Regular fuel lines will deteriorate faster. I think napa and oriellys sell it. It sometimes has "fuel / emissions" printed on it.
 
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