LMTV's show me your WINCH

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
9,130
1,881
113
Location
Memphis, TN
Something Im considering is removing the winch out of it's cradle from the MTV winch I purchased, and mounting something like a sherpa inside the cradle and fit it up cradle and new winch in OEM location

on an electric winch though.... not sure you can swing the cable under the winch and pull from opposite direction it faces like you can the FMTV winch
You can with the warn cause of its extra bolt mount setup. You
I need that room for a 100 gallon fresh water tank and 100 gallon grey water tank. I will be building an aluminum 18-20 foot camper on top with a slide out or two....
Tanks are easily mounted into the floor of the camper unit between frame braces. You don't want those tanks on the outside of the frame
 

ramdough

Active member
630
93
28
Location
Austin, Texas
I need that room for a 100 gallon fresh water tank and 100 gallon grey water tank. I will be building an aluminum 18-20 foot camper on top with a slide out or two....
I think it would make more sense to have 150 gallons of fresh water and 50 gallons of grey water. Your grey water needs is never equal to your fresh water needs. Also, in a pinch, I would rather dump the grey water in an emergency rather than drink Grey water because I was out of fresh water.

Also, really think hard about slide outs if you plan to go off-road. That is a huge weak spot in your camper.

I personally am going hydraulic SRW.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
61
35
18
Location
Seattle Wa
Building a slide out? Mind if I ask how you're doing that? I'd like to do the same but don't know how to go about it.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
Take a look at the link
Building a slide out? Mind if I ask how you're doing that? I'd like to do the same but don't know how to go about it.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
Im going to cheat and go with a company that builds the slide out and ships it to you. All you have to do is push it into your framed out trailer, wire it and you are good to go. Hopefully it will be that simple.
Here is a company I was planning on using their kit: http://busrvparts.com/slide_out_units.htm#DYI_Slide_Out_Drives_and_Parts

All my other plans are in my build link below.
 

jwchameleoncorp

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
92
33
18
Location
San Diego, CA
Take a look at the link


Im going to cheat and go with a company that builds the slide out and ships it to you. All you have to do is push it into your framed out trailer, wire it and you are good to go. Hopefully it will be that simple.
Here is a company I was planning on using their kit: http://busrvparts.com/slide_out_units.htm#DYI_Slide_Out_Drives_and_Parts

All my other plans are in my build link below.
This is perfect. Exactly what I hoped for. Thanks for sharing.

You mentioned a link to the rest of your build. It wasn't in your comments. Would love to see your ideas.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

DCLund

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
30
4
8
Location
MN
Newbie here, in the process of trying to find the LMTV for me, but doing a lot of research.
I know a few LTMV"s come with the 'factory' winch, but that is in the way for me in my mind for adding an extra gas tank, storage box, etc..
Also all the pieces to it that could go wrong.
I am considering 2 of these, one for the back & one for the front:
What have you done, and got any good pics of how you have mounted them front and/or rear...
Thank you
I decided to put a receiver on the front and back for an electric winch. Then I got the idea that I could also put side mounts on the airlift spreader bars. I have not designed the side mounts yet but that lead me to the conclusion that rather than hard wire all the locations, I made a welding cable extension cord that reaches from the battery box to all locations.
The front receiver also allows for bike or utility carriers.
Good to do the research. The best designs usually show up about the time you finish your own.
Good luck.
IMG_2224.JPGz1pic.jpgzpic.jpg
 

jwchameleoncorp

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
92
33
18
Location
San Diego, CA
I decided to put a receiver on the front and back for an electric winch. Then I got the idea that I could also put side mounts on the airlift spreader bars. I have not designed the side mounts yet but that lead me to the conclusion that rather than hard wire all the locations, I made a welding cable extension cord that reaches from the battery box to all locations.
The front receiver also allows for bike or utility carriers.
Good to do the research. The best designs usually show up about the time you finish your own.
Good luck.
View attachment 794174View attachment 794175View attachment 794176
This is EXACTLY what I did with my Chevy truck and camper. However I did run outlets to each location and also created the extension cord so that I could connect other 12V tools and appliances from each outlet. The other reason I created the hitches on front and back for the winches is that it makes them portable. If for some reason the winch isn't where I need it, I can pull a battery from the camper, the winch from the receiver, and walk them both over to a tree to pull from there. You can literally pull from anywhere with this arrangement.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

ramdough

Active member
630
93
28
Location
Austin, Texas
What size E-Torx socket do I need for the PTO?

I have a set of 5 sockets, but need to make sure I have the right one before Saturday so I can do the swap.

Thanks in advance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

fasttruck

Well-known member
1,094
234
63
Location
Mesa, AZ
The snatch block and a utility chain are your friends. Don't leave home without them. I used to carry 2 when I had a truck with a winch. You might have to change the direction of the pull and develop mechanical advantage at the same time. 809 series trucks with winch were authorized a chain, hammer and drift to change the shear pins above what a truck without a winch got.
 
37
13
8
Location
Vermont
Sherpa claim 31 000lb on their cable but every 1/2" cable you can buy has a break strength of 26,500lb max.
You can search for 1/2" 6x26 swaged wire rope at 31,800lbs breaking strength or
1/2" 6x26 Super swaged wire rope at 34,800lbs breaking strength.

These cables are commonly used in logging industry and are much nicer to handle than standard cable. I recently purchased some 9/16" 6x26 swaged with a breaking strength 47,600 lbs. When I need to replace the cable on my SRW on my LMTV M1078 it will be swaged cable.
 

chucky

Active member
181
53
28
Location
TN.
You can with the warn cause of its extra bolt mount setup. You

Tanks are easily mounted into the floor of the camper unit between frame braces. You don't want those tanks on the outside of the frame
Just because ive had so much experiance in bad weather/cold as hell on telling you to mount your tanks inside the shelter usally under tor bed or your couch but by all means keep it inside along with your water pumps where they can get a little heat so you can use water anytime you want it no matter how cold it is and when plumbing your tanks and pumps put overflow pipes on both tanks and put drain valves at the lowest point of your pump/pipes system so you can drain everything dry to winterize your system when not in use and it freezing outsde or you will come back to a busted /broken costly mess, And when useing your truck in the bad winter try not to fill the freshwater tank all the way up because if your moving around with the truck the overflow will try to run out overflow then freeze solid the bottom of the vent hose so the next time you take on water you will see the results of hydralics in action a garden hose hooked up to your fresh water with the vent froze wiil turn the tank into a football no matter what its made of and thats a real disaster. and by all means use pex plumbing in your walls with no junctins in the wall put your shark bites where the pex comes out of your wall so you willnever have a leak in the wall pex will freeze swellup then thaw and go back to normal sise no problems!!!
 
61
35
18
Location
Seattle Wa
Just because ive had so much experiance in bad weather/cold as hell on telling you to mount your tanks inside the shelter usally under tor bed or your couch but by all means keep it inside along with your water pumps where they can get a little heat so you can use water anytime you want it no matter how cold it is and when plumbing your tanks and pumps put overflow pipes on both tanks and put drain valves at the lowest point of your pump/pipes system so you can drain everything dry to winterize your system when not in use and it freezing outsde or you will come back to a busted /broken costly mess, And when useing your truck in the bad winter try not to fill the freshwater tank all the way up because if your moving around with the truck the overflow will try to run out overflow then freeze solid the bottom of the vent hose so the next time you take on water you will see the results of hydralics in action a garden hose hooked up to your fresh water with the vent froze wiil turn the tank into a football no matter what its made of and thats a real disaster. and by all means use pex plumbing in your walls with no junctins in the wall put your shark bites where the pex comes out of your wall so you willnever have a leak in the wall pex will freeze swellup then thaw and go back to normal sise no problems!!!
Very good points..
I was going to use Pex, love that stuff....
Thank you for the info....
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks