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locked up LDT 465 1D

RANDYLBARNES

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It was nice out today so I pulled the pan on my locked up engine. All the rods seem to move slightly from side to side on the crank so I don't think that a rod bearing is the problem. I pulled off all main caps but the back one and the bearings look nearly new. I need a thin wall 7/8 socket to get the rear main cap off and the sun was going down so I will bring one home from work tomorrow. I am starting to wonder if the problem is the cam or fuel pump. Was this a common problem with this engine? I was under the impression that the LDT engine did not have piston cooling nozzles. This engine does and all the pistons and walls that I can see look great. Any Ideas?
 

MVtrucker

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I've heard of multifuels getting locked up by fuel in the cylinders. I forget the tech name for this problem, but it does lock the motor up. Gotta drain the fuel, I guess by pulling the injectors and cranking the motor to blow the fuel out? Does not appear to be a bearing problem.
 

wallew

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Randy,
If the injectors are out and you still can't turn the engine over, WOW, that sounds pretty serious. Or you hit a broken tooth or two on the flywheel.

If you try and turn it over with the oil pan off, do you get ANY movement of the crankshaft? If you don't perhaps your starter is bad? Or it's solenoid isn't allowing it to lock into place?

So many options, but not quite enough info to respond to. If you need that 'soldier b' for help with this one, contact me as we are in the same town. We spoke on the phone about a month or so ago while you were at work. jim
 

clinto

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Is it possible the rings are rusted to the cylinders?

If the injectors have been out a while, it could have gotten moisture in the cylinders.....
 

pistolnut

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Or you hit a broken tooth or two on the flywheel.
I had a similar experience. I had a Ford 300 locked up tight. I pulled plugs and all and I determined that the engine just must be seized. I got a replacement engine, and when I pulled the old one I discovered that a tooth had broken off my flywheel and wedged in the starter bendix. I couldn't believe it--I checked the old engine after removal and sure enough it was free. I was swapping out a good engine!! Its a long shot but check it out.
 

wallew

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Randy,
If the engine won't turn with the injectors out, try about 4 oz's of Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and let it sit overnight. Then try it again. If still no joy in turning the engine over, look towards the starter/flywheel.

Are the batteries in the truck up to snuff??
 

wallew

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RDD,
For some reason, that one sounds familiar. I don't know why, but I KNOW I've heard that advice before.

Plus, coke (the soda) will 'eat' a galvanized nail in about three days, so don't leave it in too long.
 

SixBuy

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Phosphoric acid (Phosphate) in Coke dissolves rust, as well as blood stains, etc. It's even good to clean your battery terminals! But I'd have to be pretty desperate to pour all that sugar in my engine! I think if it came to that I'd rather use a dilute mix of Metal Treat of some other brand of metal conditioner just to avoid gooing everything up! There must be a better way!
 

m35a2cowner

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If the engine didn't seize up due to no oil or overheating it might seized up due to head gaskets leaking. I had a tractor do this and I was able to get the engine loose by filling cylinders partially with liquid wrench and let sit a few days. I then put it in gear and rocked the tractor back and forth using a little more effort as time went on. It came loose eventually and after a set of head gaskets and a bit of cleaning/and polishing with a ball hone It ran like a champ. If you try this be sure to assemble and torque all the lower end stuff
 

RANDYLBARNES

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Next chapter in the adventure. I got home from work today and spent a couple of hours working on the engine. I pulled the fuel pump cover and removed the fuel pump drive gear. Feul pump spins ok. Loostened all the rocker adjusters, the lifters and rockers are free. There is backlash in the cam gear so I know the problem is not in the fuel pump or the cam. I then was able to remove 5 of the 6 rod caps. 3 of witch are now pushed to the top of the cylinder. 2 are at an angle that they will not clear the crank and the block but will move up and down. I need to grind down the end of a 5/8 wrench to get it to clear between the bolt head and the casting edge on the block to remove the last rod bearing cap. I feel that the problem has to be something in the flywheel housing binding up the fly wheel. I also loostened all the main bearing caps to make sure the wrong size bearings had not been installed causing the crank to bind. Looks like I will be removing the tranny and flywheel tomorrow. I knew that I should have started at the back end and not the front. Where is the best place to get gaskets for the engine when I get it figured out? Any other ideas?
 

mangus580

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Randy, have you not taken the tranny out yet? or the starter? I saw a similar problem over on thedieselplace.com with a 6.2. Guy did all the same stuff you have done, and it turned out to be a torque converter bolt jammed in the starter gear!! (funny, I suggested that before he ripped it all apart ;-) )

I always check external things before ripping into an engine :)
 

RANDYLBARNES

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Found the problem today. It was so simple. Makes me feel like an idiot. When whoever installed the tranny they put in 2 bolts that were 1/2 to 3/4 longer than the others. They were long enough that when tightened all the way they bottomed out on the flywheel pushing it foreward locking everything in place. Knew that I should have pulled the tranny first. I hate learning things the hard way.
 

clinto

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Don't feel bad, we've all done stuff like that.
 
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